anyone have Double Pumper directions??

[RUQWKNF27]

Maybe a scan of the directions would work.. I am not sure I have mine wired up right. I have the vacumn source going to the Hobbs Switch on a good vacumn source I know this cause it is close to my gauge. An with the air hose to the hobbs I can hear it kick on. I have source to hobbs coming from the hot stud on alternator an of course hobbs makes up the power @ 15 lbs where I have it set an then from hobbs to 2nd pump I used my 12 volt source wire going to my hood light with a female connector. Should I supply both sides of the hobbs with the hot stud?? This may be a stupid question but o well its still not as stupid as this http://videos.streetfire.net/video/3577427B-4F50-4005-9B9C-BCEC4122BCB3.htm !!!!

 

[PhilM]

Here's a quickie paint for ya:

Phil

 

[RUQWKNF27]

I'm not sure why I have 12 volts run to both sides of my hobb switch but I do.. All I need is a 12 volt supply going in an the wire going out to the 2nd pump, since the hobbs makes up the power @ 15 lbs on vacumn.. Right now I am supplying both sides of the hobbs with 12 volts. With one side going in with 12V an a ground an side going out with 12 volt a wire going to 2nd pump an a wire going to my LED light showing I have power to 2nd pump @ 15 lbs.. The schematic helped somewhat. Are you running your 12V source fromthe battery or the alternator??

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Chris, there's more than 1 way to run the wires. In the drawing above the hobbs is grounding the 4 prong relay which works fine also.

It would also work by grounding the relay to the fender and running the 12 volt switch through the hobbs. This sounds like the way you have it.

Pretty much all relays work the same. On one prong you have the 10 gauge wire from the alternator and then another prong with the 10 gauge wire to the pump.

You also need a 12 volt trigger supply and a ground. You can ground your relay to the fender and have the 12 volt trigger wire run through the hobbs. This way when the hobbs closes under boost it sends 12 volts to the relay and the relay closes sending power to the pump.

You have to know which prong is which on the relay to make any sense out of this. If you can't, go down to the parts store and buy a relay so you'll have a diagram to go by.

 

[RUQWKNF27]

Well I think this is the way I have it>>>

 

[RUQWKNF27]

As best I remember this is the way I have it wired now!!!

 

[RUQWKNF27]

Obviously I am neither good @ wiring or drawing!!

 

[Dusty Bradford]

I think you drew the highway sytem of downtown LA

I'll try it this way.

30-----10 guage wire to pump

85------ground to fender

86------From relay to fuse and to back of alternator

87------To one side of hobbs, other side of hobbs to 12 volt source(under hood light)

According to this, 85 grounds the relay. You have 12 volts going from the underhood light to the hobbs....under boost the hobbs closes and sends power to the relay.....the relay then closes and sends power from the alternator to the pump.

 

[RUQWKNF27]

ok will try that is basically like I have it now I think We will see!! Remember I have never sent the chip off to have fuel added either Dusty. So that may still be it. I talked to Mike about t some time ago an he was like we never have fueling problems in the chips. Highest 02 reading @ WOT I havever got was like 748...

 

[John Larkin]

Does this look like what you did? I like this way.

 

[RUQWKNF27]

Does it not matter which side the hood light or the #87 comes in on the Hobbs switch??? I know the LED light has to go on the power going out onth e hObbs cause there is always power coming in an so therefore the LED light will not always be on!!

 

[RUQWKNF27]

Very nice Diagram !! Where did you get it?? If that works , I will try it that way too... In this way does your fuel PSI jusp when the 2nd pump comes on an O2's climb as well??

 

[pacecarta]

i read over this quick so might have missed it but

i read about you running 12v to both sides to activate the hobbs , this is where i feel you are lost , the hobs doesnt need to be activated by 12v its a swith on and off , the boost is what activates or closes the swith and completes the path

how red ran it

supply 12v to one side of the hobbs with a fuse off the alternator (any side doesnt matter)
connect the pump to the other side
connect your led or dash lamp (i put it behind the power injection filter in the dash and it makes sense there) to the side off the hobbs that you connected the pump and connect the ground side for the lamp to a suitable ground

thats it .
when boost reaches your setting power passes through the hobbs switch and will power the pump and turn on the lamp

I reran mine as phil shows with the lamp coming off the relay where it goes to the pump

now to test the pumps use the hood lamp wire to the fuel prime to test the primary , test the secondary pump by grounding the wire going to the hobbs switch

 

[RUQWKNF27]

OK I see you just ran it simple without a relay!!! Why do you need a relay anyways it will still work ? I have wondered this??

 

[pacecarta]

without a relay is how reds ran it
i felt running power of any load through the hobbs would sooner or later lead to burned contacts and a failure

johns little diagranm would work but it relies on the hood light circuit to have no failures for your second pump to work , not what i would want to do
i pulled power directly off the alternator to power the relay

as for the power lamp you wouldnt want it off the hobbs in either johns or phils drawing , in johns you would see the hobbs works but still no confirmation that the relay sent power to the pump , on phils the hobbs is only carrying the current needed to activte the relay which is a very small load and putting the lamp at the hobbs would complete the circuit and turn the pump on , on his like johns put the lamp at the wire going to the pump

i just noticed phil shows 12v off the battery and 12v switched IGN so im not running exactly like he shows it , just run both direct off the alternator as there is no drain when not on so no need for the switch supply to the relay

 

[RUQWKNF27]

"without a relay is how reds ran it
i felt running power of any load through the hobbs would sooner or later lead to burned contacts and a failure ""

This is not to say that it willnot work an last this way???

" just run both direct off the alternator as there is no drain when not on so no need for the switch supply to the relay"

what do you mean by this?/

 

[pacecarta]

oh it works but if you've ever seen relay contact points they get charred and pitted from higher loads the hobbs is not special the same will ocur to it , the relay used will suffer the same but i can easily open it and inspect those contacts and find a replacement quickly if needed

phils digram shows a switched ign source to power the relay, this isnt needed the relay is switched by the hobbs grounding , so rather than have you run wires not needed just run the fused power feed for the pump off the alternator stud and tap the 12v need to power the relay off that wire

keep it simple and short less chance for failures

 

[PhilM]

Listen, to do it "nice" and to make the future workers on the car happy, please do wiring the right way. It seems especially with these cars, that ppl do not take the time to properly wire them. Running no relay is fine but as with any switch it's life is proportional to the load due to the additional heat. You do not want to mess around with this kind of thing, because in reality, and if your car NEEDS the second pump to be running, then a failure with that pump be it mechanical or electrical will cause a drop in fuel pressure, leaning out the engine and destroying it.

Why are you guys running the trigger off of the lamp? Use the same trigger hot that other FP relay uses that way if a fuse goes, you're not working on non-related circuits. Ideally, you would run another ... cough cough fusible link .... off the bat stud from the starter and wrap that nicely in the stock loom for the power feed to the relay. Bah, idk... I ripped out the GM-ness in my car long ago, so I guess you have to make due. Expandable Bat posts and a distribution block eliminate limitations of the stock setup and where you can access power.

pacecarta is saying RE: " just run both direct off the alternator as there is no drain when not on so no need for the switch supply to the relay"
:that you technically dont need an IGN source since there would be no battery drain when you leave as the switch would be off anyways... problem: if there is a short somewhere, you dont have that line Fused with a small enough rating to save anything. If you ran the switched 12V on the same Fuse as the pump, well then that fuse is so large, that the current it would pull may not be enough to save a 500mA coil. The other issue is that if for some reason either the relay or hobbs become shorts, then the pump will always run, no matter of key position.

In my diagram btw, there are fuses for each line... the stock FP switched 12V IGN signal is fused already. Adding another relay would not be a problem. If i remember correctly the 12V ign signal for the stock FP relay, is some sorta AC/Choke Fuse under the dash... But that may have been something I utilized as an additional available circuit to use since mine was a V8 regal initially.

If you do want it simpler, then just put the pump wires on your steering wheel, look at your boost gauge and then just connect them when you think the boost is right.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Chris. Your set-up was wired like the one in John Larkin's diagram originally with a fuse between the alternator and relay. I was using your picture in my last post as to which post was which on the relay. If your picture was wrong, so was my response. Without a relay in front of me I can't tell you what to do for sure.

Follow John's diagram and it will be fine. Like was said. The hobbs only completes the 12v activation wire to the relay under boost. You don't need 12v to both side of the hobbs.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

If you do want it simpler, then just put the pump wires on your steering wheel, look at your boost gauge and then just connect them when you think the boost is right.

LOL.....Chris. This really is simple if you just look at what each piece is doing and think about it. Follow the diagram.