Are there any detailed write ups on girdle installation?

[Steve]

I have built a good amount of turbo Buick motors and I have always built them using billet caps but I am considering using a girdle with my new stroker motor I am putting together. I have searched the board and found some info on girdle installation but nothing very detailed. From the reading I have done the set up of the girdle seems to be very important so I am hoping someone has done a good write up on it. Thanks

 

[threerail]

thats a damn good question, was wondering that myself, and whats the difference between a cat and rjc girdle? subscribed.

 

[Steve]

thats a damn good question, was wondering that myself, and whats the difference between a cat and rjc girdle? subscribed.

I think the CAT girdle was a copy of the first generation of RJC girdle. I think the common consensus from back in the day when the CAT girdle was being produced(and the CAT forged crank was only $375!) that the hardware was crap and needed to be replaced and the girdle required some extra machine work to make it flat to begin with then it was a pretty decent piece. There were also some aluminum girdles produced by other vendors. I would just like to be able to read up on the girdle install a bit before I jumped into one. I know that if the clearances are not right it is possible to break studs.

 

[pacecarta]

in a nutshell

mill the top of the caps (to approx 2" tall) and shave them slightly for line hone
install the caps and some shims and then the girdle and shoot for .005 clearance around the pan rail of the block
adjust shims as needed and be aware to get the clearance may require shaving the pan rail if they seem to be uneven
reinstall the girdle with all the hardware and torque it down
now do the line hone
take it all apart and clean
install bearings , caps, shims and girdle , torque again and measure each of your mains , then measure the crank and see if its good to go
if clearances are good take it all apart ,
install the block half of the rear main seal , the crank , the caps( this time with the rear main seal inplace ), and then fill the rear main cap grooves with right stuff
clean the pan rail surfaces , install the shims as you had them only this time put a good bead of right stuff on the rail
torque it all down , then fill the pan stud holes with rtv and install the rail nuts and the top washers

install the pickup extension and your tube and check the pan clearance, if that checks
you can finsish up the front (cam timing set , oil pump) and once thats set install the front cover with rtv on the bottom
install the oilpan with a cork gasket , and use rtv or locktite on the pan rail nuts (a nylon lock nut would be better for this) or they will fall off before you get back to retorque the cork gasket

 

[Steve]

in a nutshell

mill the top of the caps (to approx 2" tall) and shave them slightly for line hone
install the caps and some shims and then the girdle and shoot for .005 clearance around the pan rail of the block
adjust shims as needed and be aware to get the clearance may require shaving the pan rail if they seem to be uneven
reinstall the girdle with all the hardware and torque it down
now do the line hone
take it all apart and clean
install bearings , caps, shims and girdle , torque again and measure each of your mains , then measure the crank and see if its good to go
if clearances are good take it all apart ,
install the block half of the rear main seal , the crank , the caps( this time with the rear main seal inplace ), and then fill the rear main cap grooves with right stuff
clean the pan rail surfaces , install the shims as you had them only this time put a good bead of right stuff on the rail
torque it all down , then fill the pan stud holes with rtv and install the rail nuts and the top washers

install the pickup extension and your tube and check the pan clearance, if that checks
you can finsish up the front (cam timing set , oil pump) and once thats set install the front cover with rtv on the bottom
install the oilpan with a cork gasket , and use rtv or locktite on the pan rail nuts (a nylon lock nut would be better for this) or they will fall off before you get back to retorque the cork gasket

Thanks!

 

[pacecarta]

want to add on the rear cap you have to weld on the tube spacers at the cap bolt holes before milling the rear cap
get the girdle from RJC and youll get all the hardware , shims and more specific instructions

i would also go with the scraper option and that will need checking and fitting for your crank

 

[jpwalt1987]

If you can set it up without using the shims it is better. The shims will crush and deform. Been there done that. DLS machines everything to get the clearance without the the shims.

 

[NCTURBOS]

If you can set it up without using the shims it is better. The shims will crush and deform. Been there done that. DLS machines everything to get the clearance without the the shims.

I agree...

K.

 

[Race Jace]

in a nutshell

mill the top of the caps (to approx 2" tall) and shave them slightly for line hone
install the caps and some shims and then the girdle and shoot for .005 clearance around the pan rail of the block
adjust shims as needed and be aware to get the clearance may require shaving the pan rail if they seem to be uneven
reinstall the girdle with all the hardware and torque it down
now do the line hone
take it all apart and clean
install bearings , caps, shims and girdle , torque again and measure each of your mains , then measure the crank and see if its good to go
if clearances are good take it all apart ,
install the block half of the rear main seal , the crank , the caps( this time with the rear main seal inplace ), and then fill the rear main cap grooves with right stuff
clean the pan rail surfaces , install the shims as you had them only this time put a good bead of right stuff on the rail
torque it all down , then fill the pan stud holes with rtv and install the rail nuts and the top washers

install the pickup extension and your tube and check the pan clearance, if that checks
you can finsish up the front (cam timing set , oil pump) and once thats set install the front cover with rtv on the bottom
install the oilpan with a cork gasket , and use rtv or locktite on the pan rail nuts (a nylon lock nut would be better for this) or they will fall off before you get back to retorque the cork gasket

good info. you can always e-mail me direct and i can e-mail you a set of instructions.

 

[NUTS4LC2]

in a nutshell

mill the top of the caps (to approx 2" tall) and shave them slightly for line hone
install the caps and some shims and then the girdle and shoot for .005 clearance around the pan rail of the block
adjust shims as needed and be aware to get the clearance may require shaving the pan rail if they seem to be uneven
reinstall the girdle with all the hardware and torque it down
now do the line hone
take it all apart and clean
install bearings , caps, shims and girdle , torque again and measure each of your mains , then measure the crank and see if its good to go
if clearances are good take it all apart ,
install the block half of the rear main seal , the crank , the caps( this time with the rear main seal inplace ), and then fill the rear main cap grooves with right stuff
clean the pan rail surfaces , install the shims as you had them only this time put a good bead of right stuff on the rail
torque it all down , then fill the pan stud holes with rtv and install the rail nuts and the top washers

install the pickup extension and your tube and check the pan clearance, if that checks
you can finsish up the front (cam timing set , oil pump) and once thats set install the front cover with rtv on the bottom
install the oilpan with a cork gasket , and use rtv or locktite on the pan rail nuts (a nylon lock nut would be better for this) or they will fall off before you get back to retorque the cork gasket

Why line bore if you're using your stock caps???

 

[750H.P.V6]

Why line bore if you're using your stock caps???

Adding the girdle can distort the main bearing bore. You need to re-hone it to make sure it's still straight and round.

Neal

 

[SS/GN]

Here are the directions for the CAT girdle
近くに補習校がない、又はお子様に合わせた教育を考えている方へ、日本の小学校、中学校と同等の学習指導を

Do yourself a favor and buy the RJC Made in the USA unit:wink:

Kevin

 

[Race Jace]

yes boring and honing are different. We sometimes hone the main bore even with no girdle install just ensure alignment and roundness.

 

[rmar]

Here are the directions for the CAT girdle
近くに補習校がない、又はお子様に合わせた教育を考えている方へ、日本の小学校、中学校と同等の学習指導を

Do yourself a favor and buy the RJC Made in the USA unit:wink:

Kevin

My Mandarin is a little rusty but I believe that says:...... Rots a ruck flockers.......:biggrin:

 

[boostingbuick]

Here are the directions for the CAT girdle
近くに補習校がない、又はお子様に合わせた教育を考えている方へ、日本の小学校、中学校と同等の学習指導を

Do yourself a favor and buy the RJC Made in the USA unit:wink:

Kevin

Now that's funny, and the truth. I have had the CAT girdle, and it was not worth all the extra set up to get it right. In the end I payed the same as the RJC unit installed.

 

[Phatman]

Jason.....

What changes have been made to your new girdle from the early model?

 

[turbodave231]

Weber racing had a video on their site that shows how they machine the block pan rails so that the girdle sits directly on the caps. I made up a fixture to measure cap height after pan rail machining so I can leave the cap .003 proud to the pan rail. This eliminates the shims which I think is the only way to go. I have done several blocks this way with good success. I have found it necessary to have every girdle ground flat regardless of who made the girdle.

I align hone with the girdle installed and everything torqued to spec. I can't think of any good reasons to align hone without the girdle in place.

 

[~JM~]

...I am considering using a girdle...

It's fairly simple. First one leg followed by the other. Shimy it into position & tighten until you achieve the slimming look your after.

~JM~