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Turbo6Smackdown

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2005
Messages
6,110
Ok. I just called ARP, to find out how much 4 stainless bolts would be. 1/2" by 1.75" long. 5 bucks for each bolt, and 80 cents for each nut. With 14 dollars shipping for those 4 bolts. $37.20 for 4 bolts? ARE YOU ****ING OUT OF YOUR MINDS???
Tell ya what ARP, you can go **** yourself.
 
Try Grainger or my personal favorite, Mcmaster Carr.

McMaster-Carr

If you know the size, you can look up to see if they have what you need. you can also get the tech specs of the bolts for tensile strength and whatnot.
 
Wait till you spend 5 bux on a 1.5" long caliper bracket bolt, not stainless, nothing special except it's the one that fits your car, damn mitsubishi.
 
cough cough 03 regal caliper bolt $68 dealer cost...they were kind and let me buy it for $25.
 
You should see what the government spends for aircraft hardware and parts...makes the ARPs look like a bargain!:p
 
Dude, they're like 5 bucks man lol. I just bought some myself for my 98 regal.

Where the caliper bracket attaches to the hub, no choice but to pay for it. What am I going to do? Not stop the car.... I would rather pay the $25 than to be without the car for a few hours while I find a cheaper one.
 
Waterpump bolts on a 351 ford for the timing cover.. bolt with a stud built in...$16 a piece at the dealer and theres like 5 or 6 of them!!!
 
no big surprise to buy a certified bolt in a small quantity... by the time they pay all the overhead and people to handle the order, that's probably about right.

We deal with this all the time sending hardware to customers, when they call us with an order for 4 bolts.

McMaster is a good way to go for regular commercial stuff if you know what you are looking for.

What spec are the bolts? If you are looking for some A193's, they tend to cost a few bucks. McMaster will just sell you 18-8's or 17-4's, etc... these do not come with mechanical certs, though their website will sometimes give you a tensile strength listed. We usually treat 18-8's with a yield of 30 ksi.
 
I wasn't looking for a specific spec, just a decent strength rating, for a stainless bolt. Lookin for 4 of them for an exhaust buildup.
 
Did you check Lowes. They have a bunch of stainless hardware. I use them or grainger.I was looking for control arm bolts for front and rear arms.The arms came with bolts that were crap grade 5 at best and they were 1/2 which would be fine but I want better so I went to grainger and they sold me 12mm bolts 10.9 strength . they were $8.00 for a bag of 5
 
Ok. I just called ARP, to find out how much 4 stainless bolts would be. 1/2" by 1.75" long. 5 bucks for each bolt, and 80 cents for each nut. With 14 dollars shipping for those 4 bolts. $37.20 for 4 bolts? ARE YOU ****ING OUT OF YOUR MINDS???
Tell ya what ARP, you can go **** yourself.

that isnt just four nuts and bolts. It is eight pieces delivered to your door.
You save the gas, time and hassle and have time for more important things, right?
Just because they know what it costs, and how much they need to make to be in business and be profitable, that doesn't make them out of their minds.
 
You should see what the government spends for aircraft hardware and parts...makes the ARPs look like a bargain!:p

DITTO!

I work for the U.S. government and often get to order parts and see just how expensive they really are. Something as simple as a silicone "extender" circuit card, size is about 12" by about 12", with no components on it, just a board with the circuit tracks on it, used only in troubleshooting, costs as much as $5k. :eek:
 
just remember ALL Bolts are NOT created equal..... also if you have the part numbers - double check on EGAY or from one of the parts houses ..... a lot of times you can find them cheaper...... also if it helps your mind just think of it as $35+/- over the life of your car.... just something you wont have to worry about down the road
.....i'm pretty anal about my car and you should see some of the invoices on small stuff i use on my car; stainless bolts, weathepack connectors, odds n ends... whatever – all that sh!t adds up... but i figure - hell one less thing to worry about and i divide that nominal number by the amt of years i have owned the car and its still a lot less than a f'n car note, more fun and probably better built....
 
the other thing most people don't realize is that stainless hardware is nowhere near as strong as a grade 5 bolt... they are comparable to carbon steel grade 2's.

These are a quality bolt that shows it meets ASTM F593: Hex Cap Screw, 1/2-13x1 3/4 In, PK 5 - Hex Head Cap Screws - Screws - Fasteners : Grainger Industrial Supply

The other option is buy from mcmaster... the 316 series bolts tend to be treated to be stronger, but they won't commit to a certification level there in their catalog.

What you can get away with depends where you are using them in the exhaust.
 
DITTO!

I work for the U.S. government and often get to order parts and see just how expensive they really are. Something as simple as a silicone "extender" circuit card, size is about 12" by about 12", with no components on it, just a board with the circuit tracks on it, used only in troubleshooting, costs as much as $5k. :eek:

that isnt just a circuit card. It is a circuit card delivered to their door.
They save the gas, time and hassle and have time for more important things, right?
Just because they know what it costs, and how much they need to make to be in business and be profitable, that doesn't make them out of their minds.

My ****in ass. Don't tell me you can't distinguish the difference between a profit margin and greed. Let's not be unrealistic here. Please. I know the differences thank you.
 
I needed stainless for my exhaust system. I'm in Michigan :(

And I found the bolts locally. I was just hoping to use a proven expert in the field, for a little peace of mind so to speak. That's ok, I bumped the bolt diameter up a sixteenth, to half inch. Had to ream out my flange holes, but it was no sweat. :)
And thank you for the grainger and mcmasters suggestions. I will probably be dipping into that stuff in the very near future, when my car is totally tuned, and my engine and trans is proven. At which point I will begin my bolt by bolt "frame on" section of my restoration.
Over the course of my lifetime, every bolt that I can, I will yank it, match it with a stainless version, powder coated flat black, & reinstall it. When I'm done, the body will come off, shot blast everything, and powder coat every piece imaginable, with the matte black crinkle finish from Static Controls in Wixom Michigan. (you can't beat this finish off with a hammer. And they've demonstrated it right in front of me)

This car will be my "red barchetta" when I'm dead. And I will prove to people, that newer isn't necessarily better. I intend on making a car that will whoop production line passenger cars 30 years from now. I mean leaving the owners of the 2040 chevrolet or mazda absolutely disappointed and let down. They're going to walk away completely confounded. There will be a one page history summary of the car, & myself, with a picture of me working on the car, in the glove box. No mods list will be given. Just an octane requirement. This car has to last. It will be my legacy, and prove to be a time capsule, representing all that my generation was, and how we thought. This car will leave the future generations hating what they have, and longing to be back in history. Just like what happened to me, when I was wandering around the new car lots in the 90's, then coming home and seeing pictures of the car lots in 1971. Making me furious...
 
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