ARP main studs and oil pan

[machinegun]

Ok so I purchased the ARP studs and just preassembling them I found the oil pan interfers with the rear passenger side stud. I am just wondering what people have done about this interference? reshaped the pan the stud the nut or what?

Thank You for the help.

 

[rastaz]

No interference on mine There should be two shorter studs that are used on the back main. I like to double nut them and make sure they have spun all the way down into the block. Worst case scenario you could always cut the stud down abit if there are any threads showing above the nut.

 

[tazgn]

I had this problem. Others that had this problem also said to just use a small hammer and gently 'reshape' the oil pan right there trying to not bend the sealing surface. The way the oan was orginally shaped it was hitting about 1/4" up the back wall, so it wasn't that hard. It was very close so it may just be where the flat or point of the nut end up sitting that causes problems, because I think it was the drivers side of mine that was hitting.

Derrick

 

[machinegun]

In my ARP kit, they were all the sme size I beleive, I will double check but they looked all the same size. Do you know what part number you had that had the shorter studs? I have 2 contact areas. One with the top of the nut and one with the stud itself. I could probably message the oil pan for the stud but does not appear to be enough room to do this to clear the nut itself with out changing the pans mating surface with the block. The top of the nut is higher than the machined surface of the cap itself. I am worried that too mouch msaaging here will cause the oil pan to leak.

 

[XXQUICK6XX]

Main studs

Also you might need to get 2, 12 point nuts ARP sells. Makes the fit a little easier.

Steve

 

[rastaz]

Not sure I'll be able to find my receipt with the part # on it but I do remember the part number sticker on the box said "buick V6 stage 1 main studs" Try using the Duttweiler cork pan gasket as it is quite thick and should provide you a little more clearance.

HTH

 

[machinegun]

rastaz, That is exactly what my box says. I do not have any studs shorter than the others. Looks like I either machine the stud and nut or I am not sure what else to do. The way the pan is made with the reinforcement in the pan edge, there is no real messaging of the pan I can do in this aea that I can see. I was looking at that duttweiler cork gasket but of course like anything else it is either on back order or nobody has it. Story of my life it seems. It took me a week just to find bearings for this thing. Makes me start looking at a 2 door regal and start a turbo 350 project almost everyday lately. Does everybody have these kind of problems and I am just overly stressed about getting this thing back together before the end of next year? Or do you guys have some special place where everything is correct, in stock and everything fits correctly every time? I thought I was supposed to be having fun at this.

 

[U1ARUNIT]

Hi Jim,

On my spare motor I had to dent the pan outwards even with short stud and smaller 12 point nut. Don't worry too much about leaks as the pan has a reinforcing metal rail on it anyways. Happy denting.

 

[machinegun]

Well,
What do you know, the darn box did have two shorter studs. Of course the pan still hits the nut and the shorter stud. The problem I am seeing is when you get the pan in position where you would install it, the nut is hitting the pan underneath the pan reinforcement. Either that or it is very close to there. Which way did you bend the pan. Down and OUt from the inside?

 

[U1ARUNIT]

Jim,

I needed to cut a notch in the reinforcement rail and remove that notched piece (I used a dremmel tool) and then I dented the pan the appropriate amount. Tedius job but I saw no ther way to do it.

 

[machinegun]

I am beginning to think that I having the same issue. No other way to do it. I will look at notching the pan reinforment and go from there.

 

[FJM568]

What I did is to use new factory bolts on the front and rear main caps...I was having the same problem at both the front and back with the studs on mine...The center mains are usually the ones that need most of the support, so that is why I decided to use new factory main bolts on the front and rear caps...I am also running steel center mains...

 

[HRpartsNstuff]

I have heard of that too, bolts front/back, studs in center. The 12 point nuts should free up some room too.

What's the verdict on line honing after installing studs?
I "heard" that you should do it.

 

[machinegun]

I am going to run to summit and get the 12 point nuts for testing and am having the machine shop check the main line to see if it needs any work while it is there.

 

[texasturbo]

studs

Mine had the two shorter studs. The 12 point nuts help alaong with a nice controlled dink on the pan!!!!!! Doesn't take much to clear it though.......

 

[Fred 86 GN]

My ARP studs and nuts fit OK. Did not have to dent the pan. The two shorter studs really were short -- barely enough threads to fully engage the nuts.

Maybe I just got lucky

No, you are not the only one that has straight-forward things mushroom into a big, tedious pain-in-@$$ bunch of work on these cars! Standard procedure most of the time, from what I have experienced.

Good luck.

 

[FJM568]

I'm surprised to see you ask that question, Paul...In my case, since I had the steel center mains installed, I had my block line bored/honed with the studs installed...It's just that after I got the block back and assembled and tried to install the oil pan, that I found the clearance problem...That is when I went out and bought the factory main bolts and replaced the studs in the front and rear main cap...Seems to be working fine...Although if I were to do it again, I would probably use ARP bolts instead of the factory ones...

Seems that some people have clearance problems and some people don't...No matter which position I had the shorter studs, I always had interference...

 

[machinegun]

Looks like it is time to massage the oil pan. Thank you for all the input and hopefully it goes to the machine shop this week for work. May have it back soon to finish it before winter sets in.

 

[1of1547]

I had to contour the rear of my pan too. Grab the ballpein hammer a little bit at a time. My kit also had the 2 shorter studs.