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AutoZone Ignition Module/Coil Pack?

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Last year when my car went 11.1X's, my car had a Napa coil and MAF. I put these parts on around '99. Never any problems....by the way, did I say the car was running low 11's ;)
 
Accel also makes a higher output coil, like 10% or so. Might just be a rebadged alcohol coil?
 
Coil Pack and Ignition module

We (nos4gn) have both the GM coil packs and GM Ignition modules for Vin 7 Regals. We are an AC Delco dealer. I can sell you the coil pack for $59 + shipping and I'll throw in the gasket and a set of stainless steel allenhead coil pack screws for FREE.
 
When it comes to sensitive parts (modules, mass air flow sensors, etc) aftermarket direct replacement is pure garbage.

Use factory GM Delco parts only.
 
nos4gn said:
We (nos4gn) have both the GM coil packs and GM Ignition modules for Vin 7 Regals. We are an AC Delco dealer. I can sell you the coil pack for $59 + shipping and I'll throw in the gasket and a set of stainless steel allenhead coil pack screws for FREE.

I just bought a GM coil pack from a friend that works for GM. The terminals underneath are pointing straight down and I figure I will have to bend them almost 90 degrees to make it seat onto the module. Does this sound right for a Chinese made GM Coilpack? BTW, How much for a Module from GM?
Mitch
 
GM coil pack terminal position

All of the GM/ACDelco coil packs currently have straight terminals to minimize the amount of work fatigue (like bending a wire coat hanger until it breaks) from production to installation. The previous supplier of coil packs to GM bent the terminals 90 degrees after manufacture because of shipping concerns. Subsequently, when the coil pack was installed, the mechanic would commonly bend the terminals back out (straight) in order to make the module connections, and then bend them back down again (90 degrees) in order to clear the module. This meant that the terminals got bent two more times than was necessary and made it much more likely that a terminal would fatigue and break off. When installing a new current GM/ACDelco coil pack, proper procedure is to make the module connections while the terminals are straight out and then gently bent them down 90 degrees for proper clearance to the module. This way the terminals are only bent once. Hope this sheds some light on the subject. Glen@nos4gn
 
nos4gn said:
All of the GM/ACDelco coil packs currently have straight terminals to minimize the amount of work fatigue (like bending a wire coat hanger until it breaks) from production to installation.


I've been sell coils for over 20 years and the terminals have always been straight. Ease in packaging and one less step in manufacturing is all.

Tip of the week: Only bend the terminals once.
 
re type II coil packs

I'm interested in hearing if the type II made any difference in performance too. The accel performance ones sound like they are nice pieces!
 
Ive had good luck with a broken off terminal when it broke. I dug into gooey potting material alittle and soldered a wire onto stub, then soldered a terminal to that wire.
 
Not sure if the one I bought was a wells. Its a blue logo. I went to autozone and they had 2 ignition modules to choose from. One for around $250 and one for $100. Being I was poor at the time, I thought Id try the 100 dollar one and return it if it was crap. I pull my module off and start swapping the coil pack over. Then I realize the autozone module doesnt even have tapped holes to mount the coils! All my taps are 35 miles away at work so I bought a 15 dollar tap set (what a piece of ****!), and tapped all the holes...like 10-32 or M5..dont remember. The wire diameters are smaller than stock, but everything worked ok. Its been maybe 9-10 months since I put if on and it still runs fine.
 
Wasn't to long ago I found this out 1st hand, Live and learn

nos4gn said:
All of the GM/ACDelco coil packs currently have straight terminals to minimize the amount of work fatigue (like bending a wire coat hanger until it breaks) from production to installation. The previous supplier of coil packs to GM bent the terminals 90 degrees after manufacture because of shipping concerns. Subsequently, when the coil pack was installed, the mechanic would commonly bend the terminals back out (straight) in order to make the module connections, and then bend them back down again (90 degrees) in order to clear the module. This meant that the terminals got bent two more times than was necessary and made it much more likely that a terminal would fatigue and break off. When installing a new current GM/ACDelco coil pack, proper procedure is to make the module connections while the terminals are straight out and then gently bent them down 90 degrees for proper clearance to the module. This way the terminals are only bent once. Hope this sheds some light on the subject. Glen@nos4gn
 
are the ones Caspers sells genuine GM ?

Im in need of a new coil pack and module
 
I believe they are but you should check to see if there's a warranty. If you buy through a GM dealer there is a warranty.
 
i have had good luck with the Autozone(Wells) coils so far, but i think they are a little weak compared to the GM coils.....but i ran the times in my sig with one with no problems, but i am using a volt booster to keep the spark hot.
 
So there is no connector mods that have to be done? Meaning the main connector going to the module
 
turbocody said:
i have had good luck with the Autozone(Wells) coils so far, but i think they are a little weak compared to the GM coils.....but i ran the times in my sig with one with no problems, but i am using a volt booster to keep the spark hot.

I second that...I have a fairly new ignition module from AZ in my car and haven't had any problems...I'm sure it's not as good as the OEM GM but how much do those things cost nowadays? The AZ one is like $120 with a 1 year warranty...
 
just picked up NEW gm module and coil pack from the dealer
$296.90
 
MSD DIS-4 causing problems..?????

Ahhh yes.. Nothing like resurrecting an OLD thread, but here goes...

I recently had control module problems that left me stranded 10 miles from home.. First replacement was a "surplus" Delco module + coil pack off Ebay.. 8 miles down the road - it failed..!! I emailed the seller & he exchanged it (nice guy!!), and I have it on a shelf now as a spare..

While waiting, I bought a Duralast from AZ, installed it, and the GN never left the garage.. Exchanged it for another (limited lifetime warranty!), installed it, and ... ...nothing... welp - noticed the dash tach wasn't responding, so I replaced the crank sensor - voila'.! car fired up & ran fine. (in the garage).. took it out last night, car ran great for about 15 minutes, then sputtered and died... Wife had to come rescue my daughter and I with the Tahoe..

It got me thinking - how in the hell can I go through multiple control modules.?? Different brands, no less, but all failing in the exact same fashion..?? One detail to consider: that I added a DIS-4 a few years back - prior to my ignition woes... I have only driven the car 500 miles in 4 years, so this is a "short term / fail on install" condition, in my mind..

The GN was trailered to/from the track, so it never had the opportunity to heat up and stall out, maybe the DIS-4 is the cause of the control module failures..??

Anyone else heard of a similar situation..?? Should I dump the DIS-4 & go to a Type-II set up...??

Thx -

Linc
 
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