Anyone ever had anyproblems with their Modules or Coil Packs? Center Coil went bad today and upon removing the coil I found that the ignition module epoxy was real soft and bubbling in certian places. (Might explain the car stalling from time to time and backfiring lately). So I'm gonna replace both as a unit and AutoZone has the best price and wanted to know if anyone has had a problem with the quality ect.....
Thanks for the Input
Why does the epoxy get hot enough to liquefy? Why and how do arc welders work? Poor connections create resistance=resistance creates heat.
I used the $100 unit they sold 2 years ago and it still works. Only issue was that the mounting holes werent tapped! I tapped them myself, and I used a stack of washers all the way around at each mounting hole, to separate the coil pack and module apart so that the wires dont get all criss crossed/smashed/shorted...reducing potential induction issues as well, etc. then I just ran a bead of The right stuff all the way around to seal it up. I also soldered the spade connectors together. The 100 dollar piece uses a smaller diameter wire, which is fine as long as the connections are solid, and a soldered joint is used (properly soldered...a bead of solder on a CLEAN, un-oxidized soldering tip, bring it up underneath the joint to be soldered, touch the little bead of solder to the joint from underneath....the bead of solder on the soldering tip will heat the joint up from underneath...it'll transfer the heat fast, and then run the stick of solder from the top, right onto the joint itself...never apply the solder to the soldering tip itself and then dribble it everywhere and mess it all up...The joint to be soldered needs to get hot enough that the joint itself, not the soldering tip, will melt the solder. This way the solder wicks into the pores and the flux isnt burned for so long that it burns off, you end up with no flux and the solder joint oxidizes and doesnt last....plus if you take too long and OVERHEAT the joint, the flux will wick up into the strands of the wire and the acidity will over time, eat through the strands and kill the wire. With wire soldering, flow solder into 1 wire, then the other wire, then use the soldering tip to melt the 2 wire ends together. Add shrink tubing beforehand. But with this, you need to connect the spades first, then solder them together as a unit. I work in automation, have soldered probably tens of thousands of joints, and for awhile we designed/made automated soldering machines (ARSH)...(automated robotic soldering hand) and theres an actual method with soldering that makes all the difference in the world between perfection and garbage.....works for now, dead in a month)...anyway, use the spacers so the wires dont get smashed, fit the spade connectors together, solder them, and seal it up with the right stuff. It'll work and last just as well as the GM unit for only 100 bucks. I've never experienced spark blowout even at an accidental 28psi, with a .040" spark plug gap (that big gap makes a huge difference in idle quality as well...yes that big of a gap is possible....and use COPPER anti-seize on the spark plug threads...copper is more than double (almost triple) as thermally conductive/electrically conductive as aluminum/aluminum based anti seize compounds, which are designed for aluminum heads, not iron. The threaded body of the spark plug is a ground, and improving grounds always makes for less power loss. (I suggest making some good, soldered additional grounds for the motor to the chassis...those 20 year old grounds behind the passenger side head arent that great...you'd be surprised the electrical problems that go away after adding additional grounds..(like running tons of boost with no spark blowout...lights not dimmin gout under a load, etc) .they do it with supras as well, and those cars are much newer than GN's) You can run a stock heat range plug and it will draw heat out more like a plug thats 3 ranges colder without the fouling/carbon accumulation in the chamber issues of running a colder plug if you use copper anti seize. And most of the time, a better heat transfer also equates to less voltage loss/more electrical conductivity as well (we also designed PC processor heat sinks at Tandis...better than the best prototypes in the world at 1/3 the cost).
I think it's going to be officially retired in a few weeks when I swap all my stuff to a distributor setup.
