bad reman p/m unit?

[pitoturbo]

just replace my powermaster w/ reman unit now the motor wont shut off keeps running, bleed p/m no bubbles out of it , what's my next step, do i have a bad unit or im doing something wrong any help would be helpfull thanks

 

[zeus87gn]

Are you certain it's a fresh reman unit?

Have you run any diagnostics?

 

[pitoturbo]

how can i run a diagnostic, on why the motor isn't shuting down

 

[zeus87gn]

DUH, I knew that. It's been a long day this week.

Whatever you do, don't let the motor run longer than 20 seconds.
This lets the motor heat up and can cause damage to the drive, and it can (and/or will) cause damage to the pump. Stop and let it cool for a few minutes before running it any more.

Are you sure it's a fresh reman? Did it come from one of our vendors?

What did you do to bleed it? Have you cycled the acc to remove any air?

If you unplug the switch on top with the motor in operation, does the motor shut off?

 

[phillyturbosix]

It's the A1 Cardone reman ones all the vendors sell who get them from Advance Auto or Auto Zone. Right off the shelf in the box. Lifetime warrenty and all that good stuff. I was'nt sure on if you had to bleed them from a fresh install. That might be all it is Pito.

 

[zeus87gn]

I was'nt sure on if you had to bleed them from a fresh install.

Absolutely. You have no idea if the acc has any fluid in it. You have to cycle it to remove any air. You will know it if you do as you will see frothy fluid on pump down.

The low pressure side has to be bled like any typical master cylinder on a fresh install.

 

[phillyturbosix]

Well I meant I knew they had to be bled just wasn't sure how Your links in your sig are perfect! I just got off the phone with Pito and Advanced is trying to locate another one for him. They think the motor is dead from the start. I guess there is no way A1Cardone can really even check these things on a bench. Lucky for us A1Cardone's main plant is right here in Philly so we can usually get them first. That's how Kirban keeps a good stock on them! :wink:

 

[zeus87gn]

OH! It just hit me to try something else before you go swapping in another (if you want to).

You pump my not be priming because of all the air. Try just cracking the hose fitting at the cylinder and allowing the pump to run for a moment - just until you see some fluid come out of the fitting. Don't let it run after that until you tighten it back as that pump is operating at serious pressure.

Hope the procedure helps.
Good Luck!

 

[zeus87gn]

Lucky for us A1Cardone's main plant is right here in Philly so we can usually get them first. That's how Kirban keeps a good stock on them! :wink:

Now the cat's out of the bag!! :tongue: :biggrin:

 

[pitoturbo]

well the fluid goes down when the unit goes on the light goes out, good pedal but wont pressure wont cut off

 

[zeus87gn]

Ok. That being said, you've either got a LOT of air in there or the pressure switch is bad. Fluid going down in the bowl says the pump is working.

Try cycling the acc.
Don't let the motor run more than 20 seconds.

If this doesn't solve your problem, then I would agree to send it back.

You can prove the realy is good by unplugging the switch. If the motor stops, it's working correctly. If the motor keeps running, the relay is stuck closed and you will need to send it back.

Good luck and have a good weekend.
There is a cold beer with my name on it at the house.

 

[pitoturbo]

you mean unpluging the pressure sw. while p/m running?the pump should stop if it keeps running is the motor?

 

[zeus87gn]

you mean unpluging the pressure sw. while p/m running?the pump should stop

Correct.

if it keeps running is the motor?

Correct. The relay is built into the motor. If the relay is stuck in the closed position (aka - on), the motor will continue to run regardless of whatever the switch tells it to do. It's a check of the realy to determine if the relay is at fault.

If the motor shuts off when you unplug the switch (with the motor running), then the relay is working correctly and the problem lies elsewhere.

Now, about that beer.....

 

[pitoturbo]

about coors light/ corona w/lemon!!!!! thanks for every advice stop bye northeast philly that's my ride w/no brakes at ths time

 

[POWERBRAKEBOB]

Hydroboost Conversion

I'm Still Not Sure About How A-1, Or Any Else Rebuilds The 12v Pump. The End Is Crimped Shut. The Vanes Are Phenolic. (plastic) Brake Fluid Is Not An Oil, And Has No Lubricity. "if" A-1 Actually Takes Apart The Pump, To Rebuild It, They Must Locate Those Special Vanes. Then They Must Be Able To Crimp The Pump Back Together, And, It Must Seal At 2000psi. It's Not Easy To Do. I Really Think They Just Test Those Pumps, And Re-run Them. When The Phenolic Vanes Wear Out, They Can Not Produce Enough Psi To Open The Switch, And Stop The Motor. O.k., They Offer A Lifetime Warranty, But How Often Do You Like Replacing That P/m? If You Need A New Pump Assy, We Have Them At A Cost Of $295.00

 

[zeus87gn]

I'm Still Not Sure About How A-1, Or Any Else Rebuilds The 12v Pump. The End Is Crimped Shut. The Vanes Are Phenolic. (plastic) Brake Fluid Is Not An Oil, And Has No Lubricity. "if" A-1 Actually Takes Apart The Pump, To Rebuild It, They Must Locate Those Special Vanes. Then They Must Be Able To Crimp The Pump Back Together, And, It Must Seal At 2000psi. It's Not Easy To Do. I Really Think They Just Test Those Pumps, And Re-run Them. When The Phenolic Vanes Wear Out, They Can Not Produce Enough Psi To Open The Switch, And Stop The Motor. O.k., They Offer A Lifetime Warranty, But How Often Do You Like Replacing That P/m? If You Need A New Pump Assy, We Have Them At A Cost Of $295.00

I wonder that about those "rebuilds" myself. I will be dealing with one here shortly and find out just how good they are.

If I may ask aobut your pump/motor...is it 100% new, a new pump on a refurbished motor, or a rebuilt pump on a refurbished motor?

Just curious. Mine was 100% new when I got it from Hank.

 

[POWERBRAKEBOB]

P/m Pump

Hi! These Motor/pumps I Have Available Are 100% New. There Are 500 Available, Period. After That, No More. Rebuilding The Cylinder Part Is Something That Most Rebuilders Can Do, But Is Rarely The Reason The Pedal "gets Hard" It Is The Pump Failing. In 100,000 Miles, It Would Be Possible For That Pump To Come On Every Mile, In Traffic. That Many Cycles, Under High Pressure Is Tough On Elec. Motors. I Have Taken Those P/m Pumps Apart. The End Is Crimped Over The Plate. If You Could Find New Phenolic Vanes, And Install Them, You Still Need To Re-crimp The Cover Plate. Under That Cover Plate Is An O-ring That Must Be Crimped Down "evenly", Or Fluid Will Squirt All Over. Messy. The Seal Between The Pump And Windings Must Also Be Replaced. The Windings/brushes May Need To Be Replaced. That Is Why I Question The Mass Rebuilders, If They Really Open Up That Pump, Or Just Test It. The Number One Reason They Would Have A Core In Their Hands, Is Because It Came Off Of A Car, And Was Not Working. It Would Be Very Obvious If The Crimps Have Been Pried Open, And Then Hammered Back Down. If They Do Not Rebuild The Pump, Then All Those "life Time" P/m's Will Keep Coming Back. It Seems Like A "chance" That Some Might Not Want To Take.

 

[2badgn]

How much for a pm pump shipped to 10705?

thanks
frank

 

[POWERBRAKEBOB]

Powermaster Pump

Hi! Ups Ground Is $10.00 2nd Day Is $20.00 Next Day Is $45.00. The Pump Is $295.00

 

[POWERBRAKEBOB]

Hydroboost Conversion

Just A Reminder. Brake Fluid Will Remove Your Paint, And Right Now! Always Keep A Bottle Of Water Handy When Bleeding Your Brakes. Water Completly Neutralizes Brake Fluid's Damage To Paint, If, You Get The Water On Your Paint Immediately!