You can type here any text you want

Bagged Short Block

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

getchasum

MISSING 2 CYLINDERS???
Joined
May 23, 2002
Messages
2,280
He guys I've been away for a little while and just starting to want to get my hands dirty again. Anyway my short block has been assembled on the engine stand, bagged up tight for right at 3 years now. It's been kept dry & clean. I really hate to tear it back down for fresh assembly lube but thought that it may need to come apart. It was put together right at the time.


What's your guys thoughts on just pulling the bag and finishing the build?
 
If the pan gasket is not on yet i would break the mains and rods loose and put some assembly lube on there again its a cheap peace of mind and also you can be sure you torqed everything right, (i cant remember what i did yesterday, never the less 3 years ago :rolleyes: ) . Also put some light oil or tranny fluid on the cylinders.
 
Most of the assembly lube will be displaced by the priming operation. These engines aren't the delicate snowflakes they're made out to be just because they're in a bag.

As long as the bag hasn't been compromised I'd run it. I've only personally done 6 or 7 engines that spent extended time in a bag, but I've got a 100% success rate of them not flying apart.
 
Agreed... As long as it's clean, free from debris, moisture (oxidation), etc. I would install the timing set, front cover, and oil pump. Prime the motor for bearing oiling, install the heads and valvetrain, and continue the priming for top-end lubrication. Finish the build and rock 'n roll!

K.
 
when you prime it..........
it is imperative you rotate the crank 90 degrees and prime,
then another 90 degrees and prime, for a full 720 degrees,
this allows the lifters to UNLOAD, and all contact surfaces to receive
lubrication.
yea, I've done em the old way for yrs, and they lived,
but for what little effort it is to do it this way , why not?
 
I've always turned the crank during priming because without a cross drilled crank only 1/2 (or 3/4 with 3/4 groove mains) the rods will get oil at any one crank position.
 
Thanks you the tips on priming....I've never rotated a crank during the prim when building one.
 
In that case I would make sure the lobes had plenty of cam lube on them. Easy if the intake is off, not so if it is on.
 
Good advice...Like I said earlier, It's a short block so the heads are still off.
 
Back
Top