Bear or Aerospace?...

[GNVYUS 1]

I don't agree that the Aerospace are only Drag Brakes, here are the links.

Aerospace
PRO STREET BRAKE KITS

Baer
Baer Serious Street-Plus Brake System: buybrakes.com

FWIW, a .81 thick, vented and solid rotor is pretty common for all performance street kits.

And there's a $1000 difference in kits, ah, what am I missing here?

 

[Dusty Bradford]

They're the "Bogart RT" model right?...Also, I didn't know you could add a bead lock to a "standard" style wheel!
I have some Billet Specialties "Street Lites" on my GN right now and I'm very tempted to go with a similar dual caliper setup like you have, + notching the frame, but I'm unsure if I should go with 12" wide wheels (how much rear spacing? ), or if the 10"s I have now will be enough to mount some 325-50-15 tires?

Thanks,

Claude. :wink:

Yes. I think it's called a welded RT. Any wheel can have the bead locks added.

You won't fit a 12" wheel under the car unless you move the frame rails in. Mine are 11" with 6" bs and barely fit with the 325/50. I ordered the wheels with 6 3/8 backspacing and then run a 3/8 spacer to make it 6" bs.

 

[toofastforyou]

Yes. I think it's called a welded RT. Any wheel can have the bead locks added.

You won't fit a 12" wheel under the car unless you move the frame rails in. Mine are 11" with 6" bs and barely fit with the 325/50. I ordered the wheels with 6 3/8 backspacing and then run a 3/8 spacer to make it 6" bs.

Thanks Dusty for the info...Since I'm willing to do just a frame notch (and not move in the whole frame rails), then I'll probably stay with some 10" wide wheels and mount the 325's on them. I checked both M&H and BF Goodrich's sites and that's the width they recommend for that size of tire. The only thing I might have to change would be to get some wheels with a little more rear spacing than what I have now (4.5").

Thanks again,

Claude. :smile:

 

[GARY HARVEY]

OK..
Is it time to put together a group purchase?
If so, how many players do we need?

Jack, do you want to do something like this?

 

[HelloBozos]

I just added Aerospace's Pro-Street kit for g-body's in the front an same Pro-street style with blackend rotor kit an parking brake for 9" ford rear (currie with 3:20 gear),only problem you might find is if added tubular a-arms in front an disk brake kits, it will put the wheel out one inch more to the fender lip then the factory location

 

[scot w.]

Wouldn't mind talking with you Scott as this is very high on my modifications list. Getting some prices and what not.

Clayton

Clayton, give us a call, we will be happy to help you out...


Scot W.

 

[OConnor]

Just got my Baer Pro+ kit today I'll post some pics Saturday!

 

[scot w.]

Just got my Baer Pro+ kit today I'll post some pics Saturday!

The kit for the GNS test car is in route as we speak! :biggrin::biggrin:

 

[WHITE T]

Good to hear!

Let me/us know what you guys think

Any questions let me know!

 

[Bent6]

I do have a prop valve but I have it on the rears and it's wide open. I use the large bore cylinder from Strange and everything works great.

How's the pedal feel? I have an early Aerospace dual caliper setup on my green car. I've always had to pump the brakes to get a solid pedal due to the large volume of fluid required. I've tried all shapes and sizes of master cylinders. Mine really needs dual master cylinders with a balance bar to work correctly.

 

[Bent6]

Good to hear!

Let me/us know what you guys think

Any questions let me know!

Hey Rick. Tried to call you the other day to discuss possibly using one of these new setups on my new project. I have the templates you sent a while back and I think they should clear my double beadlocks.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

How's the pedal feel? I have an early Aerospace dual caliper setup on my green car. I've always had to pump the brakes to get a solid pedal due to the large volume of fluid required. I've tried all shapes and sizes of master cylinders. Mine really needs dual master cylinders with a balance bar to work correctly.

It takes 1 pump to get the pedal real solid. Rick sent a newer version of the caliper for me to try which has an improved bleeding system. The car is currently down for 25.3 upgrade and a rear end swap. I'll have the new calipers on when it goes back together.

 

[WHITE T]

Will,

Sorry... I was out at the NMRA last weekend and playing catch up has been tough. Feel free to call this week or shoot me an e-mail and I will call you when I get a chance.

Since we build the calipers in house we control piston sizes (well to a degree... whatever we have seals for ). On drag specific cars such as Dustys we are playing around with shrinking the front piston size down a little to help bring the pedal back up. What you have to realize is dual rear calipers are "unconventional" in any terms of a normal brake system due to the volume requirements to get a good pedal. By shrinking the front piston size we can bump the pedal up and still keep the clamping force where Dusty likes it in the rear. Plus in a drag application due to the larger rear tire size, and all the weight being transferred to the rear... all the braking is back there anyway.

We are also playing around on a couple of other cars using smaller rear pistons in the dual staging brake.. as we think this will still probably hold well and create a better pedal.

We just did a single turbo PSCA wild street Mustang that had a dual master cylinder set up with an aftermarket pedal assembly. This car had a high hard pedal and held 4200 RPM on a brand new brake in our parking lot. Needless to say the customer had a BIG smile on his face

Ok.. done rambling

 

[WHITE T]

Not sure if you saw this in the other thread... here are a couple of pics of the car we just did at the shop.

We wanted this one to stand out so we did a new transparent candy red powder on the calipers

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Rick, mine held 4000rpm with a very tight 10.5 converter....no problem. I can go higher if needed. They are working better than expected.

I pump the brakes in the burnout box just to make sure the fronts hold with the line lock engaged. I can go straight to the lights and stage without pumping them at all but I'm usually waiting on the nitrous guys to purge so I pump them just to get as much pedal as I can.

 

[WHITE T]

Dusty,

I like to hear that! LOL

I am excited to see how the car turns out when the chassis work is done! It has been a pleasure working with you!!

Keeping an eye on the updates on here

 

[TheGovernment]

Is the Baer kit track4break system a direct bolton for our Regals? or are there any mods needed to do? I'm looking for a kit for my car and this kit had caught my eye. Also does the kit keep the wheels at oem stance distance? I've read that they push the wheel out an inch but can't seem to find that info again. Rims are Boss 338 18's 4.5 BS.

thanks!

 

[scot w.]

Is the Baer kit track4break system a direct bolton for our Regals? or are there any mods needed to do? I'm looking for a kit for my car and this kit had caught my eye. Also does the kit keep the wheels at oem stance distance? I've read that they push the wheel out an inch but can't seem to find that info again. Rims are Boss 338 18's 4.5 BS.

thanks!

Read this, it should help... http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/brakes-suspensions-tires-wheels/343546-baer-brake-install.html


Scot W.

 

[TheGovernment]

ooo looks like a plug and play! nice!!!! did the kit push out the wheels any?

 

[toofastforyou]

Not sure if you saw this in the other thread... here are a couple of pics of the car we just did at the shop.

We wanted this one to stand out so we did a new transparent candy red powder on the calipers

Looks awesome!...One quick question though: How does the brake line connect to both calipers?

Claude. :smile: