belt keeps slipping [ voltage light coming on ]

[crazygn]

How can i get this belt to stop slipping, it not a old belt just bought a little time ago. I have the belt so tight now trying to get it to stop slipping that its crazy, and it still slips. Iam going to try a new belt later if i can get one. Is there any thing to stop it for now, my voltage light keeps coming on and making the car run like s---.


any help would be great.

 

[crazygn]

Come on guys its only a belt is there some thing i can put on the belt or do to the pulleys to keep it from slipping.

 

[MARINES185]

try replacing your automatic belt tensioner. it maybe becoming
weak. also check to make sure your alternator is not starting to
seize up. it should spin freely by hand. you don't want to put
anything on the belt because it won't last and it may make
the belt brittle.

 

[TurboJim]

I had a problem with mine years ago, I suspect you are having. I suspect the brushes were floating off the armature. I would get a volts light at higher RPM's. I know it wasnt the belt because new brushes fixed it.

 

[crazygn]

Ok guys , i put a new belt on and its not slipping any more, but the voltage on the scan tool is still jumping around and dies at wot. Thing is it seems if my voltage dies to .3 to 6.0 at times why dont my head lights dim or the car die. And if it is still running off the batt then why would it get knock when the voltage dies.


I am so p---- off at this car , it felt like a easy 11sec car at first and now out of the blue i fell like iam driving a school bus h---maybe slower.

 

[Ken Cunningham]

my bad alternator [long]

crazygn: This sounds too much like what I went thru for the past month or 2. I posted at various times and in various posts about my problems:
* fuel pump relay intermittantly failing
* hard starting
* sometimes my anti-theft chip would lock me out
* occasional no-start, when hot

I replaced my hot wire fuel pump relay. Then the stock GM fuel pump relay. Then my starter motor. Then I cleaned the major ground points, relocating the grounds from the back of the p/s head. Finally, after being stuck on the side of the road after my volts fell from 12 to 10 to 8(!), I finally caved in and replaced the alternator and the battery. This solved all my problems.

I am on my 3rd TR and never had an alternator go bad, even on cars with more mileage than my current car. I have followed this board for years, and I just don't often read about bad alternators. Therefore, I feel a little justified about being so obstinate about this. But looking back, it all seems so obvious. The failing alternator kept the battery in low voltage condition. Without a good, strong voltage, certain relays will not trip. With poor voltage, weak grounds did become a problem during the start. Then, when I finally saw the volt light come on, I fooled around for another week trying to see if a bad battery caused low voltage, or a bad alternator. The thing is, a bad alternator will kill your battery anyway.

The moral of the story: It really could be your alternator. Mine tested fine during this ordeal at Kragen with an on-the-car testing gauge.