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Best Headers and exhaust for 600hp "sleeper"?

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newtownhood

Car Audio and Electronics guy.
Joined
Jun 6, 2001
Messages
137
I'm trying to build my car as a 500whp sleeper, fully built bottom end (eagle crank,rjc girdle,diamond pistons), comp roller cam, ported stock heads with bigger valves...big turbo, injectors, etc..I have not purchased turbo, injectors, chip yet...I'm thinking PTE stock location intercooler though. And the biggest turbo I can fit under the stock shroud...I'm thinking of just a 3 inch "single shot" straight pipe with a high flow cat? Or would I be better off with no Cat and high flow "resonator" muffler?Do I need to go bigger? I'd prefer not to go with an external "racegate" style downpipe as that kills the sleeper thing. I'm sure my stock headers are cracked, so which headers fit best and will work with my power goal? Thanx guys :D
 
Without a cat it's not going to sound like much of a sleeper. I had the ATR single shot on my car, sounded great imo. Not really sure how big of a turbo you can fit under the cover. Also if you're going to get new headers, I would switch to an external wastegate and turbo. Sounds like a fun project.

Peter
 
I'm trying to build my car as a 500whp sleeper, fully built bottom end (eagle crank,rjc girdle,diamond pistons), comp roller cam, ported stock heads with bigger valves...big turbo, injectors, etc..I have not purchased turbo, injectors, chip yet...I'm thinking PTE stock location intercooler though. And the biggest turbo I can fit under the stock shroud...I'm thinking of just a 3 inch "single shot" straight pipe with a high flow cat? Or would I be better off with no Cat and high flow "resonator" muffler?Do I need to go bigger? I'd prefer not to go with an external "racegate" style downpipe as that kills the sleeper thing. I'm sure my stock headers are cracked, so which headers fit best and will work with my power goal? Thanx guys :D

Ported stock headers with a 6262 Billet wheel Turbo.
545 at the tires at 23#s,will that work for you?:D
 
headers

I just bought a set from mark@turbo regal custom parts after fighting 2 sets of chinese knock offs i threw in the towel and paided up was the best money i've spent so far tired of welding the factory ones also.
 
Any THS downpipe will give away the "sleeper" look, something to consider if it concerns you.
 
Perfect timing i was just looking at the ta stock replacement headers you might want to get those bad boys only 700.00.
 
That’s funny a Grand National sleeper not going to happen maybe a T type with chrome and some color other then black but a GN not going to happen. My GN was completely stock and I was at a gas station filling up a 69 comarro pulled in beside me with a big block and a blower sticking out of the hood this thing was mean I said to the guy man I bet that thing will get up and go he said ya but no ware as fast as that GN , I said its all stock Ill be lucky to get low 13s he laughed and said ya right there is no such thing as a stock slow GN any more. I am always surprised that most guys just assume since it’s a GN it has to be fast as hell. And for your stock look down pipe that’s nice and all and I under stand the stock look but rilly the only guys who know it don’t look stock will be T-buick guys and they will know its not any way so unless you just got to have as close to stock look as possible don’t let that be the deciding factor on parts.
 
most people look at our set up an think nothing of it. I think the stock valve covers "hide" a lot .. Most don't pick up on the downpipe with the internal gate. Oh we went with TA headers.. Kept cracking the stockers bad.
 

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most people look at our set up an think nothing of it. I think the stock valve covers "hide" a lot .. Most don't pick up on the downpipe with the internal gate. Oh we went with TA headers.. Kept cracking the stockers bad.

The stock valve covers do hide a lot. I have an older 67 Q-Trim under a Kodiak West heat shield & it fit's good but I wouldn't try much bigger. Also after 20 years I finally put on a 3" cat & it's somewhat quieter cruising but still some drone at 2200 rpm. Quieter than it used to be tho. I had an electric cutout that was fun for 10 years. Guess I'm getting old because loud cars aren't for me anymore unless they are at the track & going Fast! ;)
 
same here.stockers made good power but i got bored of them cracking.i can't complain they held up a long time.i have the ta performance now they are a nice peice.
 
You should try building a nearly stock appearing 450whp combo. Id even leave the stock downpipe on there. Run a stock compressor cover turbo with the stock shield. Run the stock flex hose to the turbo. The only major deviation id do is replace the intercooler with a good stock location one. Run a stock MAF and the stock air box. Just cut it open to increase flow. The 450whp could be done. Maybe more. You will put a lot of guys on here to shame with their much more modded looking combos that run 12's. Spend the $ on a good converter and heads. You should be able to get any 76/65 trim ex wheel turbo with smaller than a 67 compressor to fit in the stock compressor cover. You will need a large compressor with the stock MAF unless you run no screens or the MAF will limit airflow. Stock manifolds for sure. Just have them opened up a little. If you deviate from the stock compressor cover, air inlet, downpipe, and headers you are revealing too much imo. If those things are untouched most would just walk right by and assume its a nearly stock TR. They will find out its not when its too late.
 
If I had cracked headers and was planning my new turbo and DP, I'd use this opportunity to go to the T4 flanged header and turbos. TA Performance makes them and you can either do the wastegate off the header (best) or DP (not as effective) and have it plumbed into the DP for stealthyness. About

Then you can rock a T4 .68 PTE62/65 with a V Band 3" DP and gain at least 30whp at 30psi over us with our 3 bolt exhaust housing. Easy 600hp engine with your mods and moderate boost level.

Single 3" is not stealth and loud. 3 Muffs is quiet but restrictive as hell. I'd bet a dual Borla Pro XS setup would be the best of quiet and power and you can still do the tailpipes the same behind the rears.
One - 2.500 in. - SummitRacing.com
All the above are 2.5" inlet and outlet, then run the usual tailpipes behind the rears.

80lb Injectors and a DW301 fuel pump would be my fuel system. But you'll need a modded Accufab fuel regulator with a bigger return fuel line to keep the pressure down.
Accufab Adjustable Fuel Regulator, Fuel System & Ignition, FUE102 | Cotton's Performance Buick Grand National Parts & Service
Talk to Jack about the -6 return fitting mod. ;)


Sound Off in Quietest to Loudest (Decibels):
1.Borla XS, 80db at idle, 90db at 2,000 rpm, 110db at WOT.
2.Hooker Maxflow, 80db at idle, 90db at 2,000 rpm, 120db at WOT.
3.Magnaflow, 82db at idle, 91 at 2,000 rpm, 114db at WOT.
4.Flowmaster, 82db at idle, 93 at 2,000 rpm, 115db at WOT.
5.Flowtech Warlock, 83db at idle, 92 at 2,000 rpm, 112db at WOT.
6.Dynomax UltraFlo, 83db at idle, 94 at 2,000 rpm, 113db at WOT.
7.Borla XR1, 83db at idle, 96db at 2,000 rpm, 118db at WOT.
8.Bassani Street, 83db at idle, 96db at 2,000 rpm, 120db at WOT.
9.Edelbrock RPM, 84db at idle, 93db at 2,000 rpm, 118db at WOT.
10.Bassani Real Street, 84db at idle, 96db at 2,000 rpm, MAX. (120+db).
11.Flowtech Afterburner, 86db at idle, 94db at 2,000 rpm, 115db at WOT.
12.Flowtech Terminator, 86db at idle, 94db at 2,000 rpm, 119db at WOT.
13.Hooker Aerochamber, 87db at idle, 94db at 2,000 rpm, 114db at WOT.
14.SpinTech, 87db at idle, 97db at 2,000 rpm, 116db at WOT.
15.MAC, 87db at idle, 98db at 2,000 rpm, 119db at WOT.
16.No Muffler, 91db at idle, 103db at 2,000 rpm, MAX. (120+db).
 

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Stock Headers

Most if not all have "winking" where the port runner meets the log.Not likely that cyl 5 has winking since the runner is a slip fit into the log. Cut a door into the bottom of the dr si at the 7 o'clock position and go in there with a light.You may be surprised at how much flow blockage could exist.Its likely that the passenger side has winking as well.I had to cut 2 doors on the passenger side.Also verify your header alignment to the exhaust ports.I have ported heads so I had to open up the exhaust flanges as well.If you mess with the exhaust flanges you may have to add weld material on the back side for structure.If you weld on these headers make sure that you go slow and that you use a garbage cyl head to bolt to so that the header maintains its alignment.You can also trim some material from the backside of the o2 bung.There's a lot more left after all of this.
 
Question

most people look at our set up an think nothing of it. I think the stock valve covers "hide" a lot .. Most don't pick up on the downpipe with the internal gate. Oh we went with ta headers.. Kept cracking the stockers bad.

Dan which ta headers did you go with.
 
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