Best way to pull the pan with RJC girdle?

[jhanson1750]

Well folks I've tried but I cannot stop the leak on the new motor. This is the strange part to me, oil is seeping past the threads on the oil pan studs. I painted the block before assembly so leaks are easy to spot. The valve cover leak was fixed in minutes. The rear main is DRY felt it with my hand, and shoved clean rags up there and dry. The oil is dripping off the pan studs and EXACTLY CENTER of the crossover pipe. (Nice bug fogging effect :biggrin: ) I pulled the nuts off of the rear 4 studs and thied to seal them up but no joy. What I need to know is this. What is the best way to pull the oil pan with the girdle? I know I will have to jack the motor but from where? In the past I would pull the motor mounts loose and jack the motor with a block of wood on the nose of the crank but I don't know if that will work on the buick without damaging the crank. If anyone has firsthand expierance with a girdled 109 please advise. I am going to pull the pan to reseal this weekend.TIA Jon Hanson

 

[49-blues]

Good Luck with that in the car- not easy while motor is still installed.

 

[Sleeper-6]

I'd say hook an engine hoist up throught the lower manifold with a lifting sling so you don't have to disassemble everything, remove the engine mount bolts and gently lift it about an inch to give you the clearance you need. I've never tried this, but it seems to me like it there is enough slack in everything for it to work. Good Luck

 

[turbofabricator]

Jack under the front balancer. Works fine. I haven't tried to remove a pan with a girdle on, though. (I always pull the engine) If you can get it up far enough, no problem. Good luck.

 

[MSDGN]

If you used the Right Stuff to seal the pan...all I can say is good luck...sorry for being negative but I had a hell of a time getting the pan off with the motor out of the car...not because of the girdle but because of the Right Stuff...that is great stuff for sealing but you need a chisel to break parts loose...I had to take a putty knife/chisel and keep chipping away the cork gasket until the pan finally broke loose when I was prying on it...took me a couple of hours...and I bent the pan a little where I was prying...had to hammer it back...I can't imagine doing it with the motor in the car if it's sealed with that stuff...

 

[87we410877]

Same exact problem here. I tried to seal it w/ the motor in the car. I used a cable from home depot with the plastic sheilding and some cable clamps and a hoist to lift it. Run the cable under the manifold by the runners on the inside of the fuel rail. That worked for me but didnt fix the leak after i re-sealed. Motor is currently out of the car and im going to re-seal the gurdle, rear main and pan.

 

[JSTTA]

Same exact problem here. I tried to seal it w/ the motor in the car. I used a cable from home depot with the plastic sheilding and some cable clamps and a hoist to lift it. Run the cable under the manifold by the runners on the inside of the fuel rail. That worked for me but didnt fix the leak after i re-sealed. Motor is currently out of the car and im going to re-seal the gurdle, rear main and pan.

Hey 87WE410877, I think i saw you on rt 83 a few weeks ago. You were next to a 78 Malibu. I pulled up next to you in my company car (black sebring) . I wish I had my TTA that night. From you sig. and watching your car leave, I think I would have lost, but it would have been fun.Good luck w/ the motor.

Did not mean to steel the thread sorry!

 

[8AV8]

We took the crossover off and jacked under the balancer and took mine off. Th right stuff is a pain to get off. Find a lift a buddy will let you use if you can. It can be done. BTW..right stuff is your friend if you are trying to seal a leaky girdle or main. Ask me how I know.....

 

[jhanson1750]

I should be able to work on it next weekend, been busy ass all heck at work. I didn't use Right stuff on the first go'round but I will be using it this time!! Where is the best place to find it? Thanks for all the help. Jon Hanson

 

[Turbo1dr]

If it's leaking on the two studs on the main cap that do not have a nut between the oil pan and the girdle you can do this...no need to pull the oil pan.

Remove the studs that are leaking and then spray brake cleaner or carburetor cleaner through the girdle and up into the threaded holes on the block. Use an air gun to dry off the cleaner and remaining oil. Take a some Ultra Black RTV and a small rod like a antenna and pack the holes with RTV using the rod. Don't over do it though. Then screw the studs back in but try not to cause a hydraulic lock when doing it. After that put some more RTV on the threads and screw the outer nut in place.

You can't just put RTV on the outer nut because the oil pan has a thick "rail insert" to help even out pressure on the gasket. That's where the oil is actually leaking out of it most likely....between the insert and the actual pan itself.

I had to do that with mine and it worked for me.