Best wireless router
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802.11G is NOT a move up
The 802.11B has a longer wave length and will have a longer reception distance than the "G", and , go through thicker walls in the process. I've been using an antenna made from a coffee can, and the "B" for 18 months now....Can is aimed at my neighbor's WAP11, a block away
The "G" won't do it as well.
We use Lynksys, because that was all that was available back then. Some of the new equipment will operate on both the "B" and "G" frequencies. I can see no need for you to "upgrade" to the "G" any time soon. Save your money and not buy this next generation of equipment....Buy the one after next
Best Regards,
The 802.11B has a longer wave length and will have a longer reception distance than the "G", and , go through thicker walls in the process. I've been using an antenna made from a coffee can, and the "B" for 18 months now....Can is aimed at my neighbor's WAP11, a block away
The "G" won't do it as well.We use Lynksys, because that was all that was available back then. Some of the new equipment will operate on both the "B" and "G" frequencies. I can see no need for you to "upgrade" to the "G" any time soon. Save your money and not buy this next generation of equipment....Buy the one after next
Best Regards,
Re: 802.11G is NOT a move up
From a coffee can? I thought you were only supposed to use those for exhaust systems. You can use them as antenna as well.
I have a D-link "G" wireless router. After going thru all the growing pains of getting it hooked up right and working, (first network) it has worked beautifully. I get reception in my entire apartment. This apartment is a decent size, but the walls are stone (as all houses in Germany are). This router will work with "B" as well, but I went ahead with "G" anyways. The price diff was between a "B" and a "G" was so small I said, what the heck.
At the university, there is a "B" system that does not get very good reception. Granted, I don't know where the transmitter is located, but I have never been able to get a good signal.
Please don't take my word as gospel though as I'm new to this WLAN thing.
Originally posted by lburou
I've been using an antenna made from a coffee can....
From a coffee can? I thought you were only supposed to use those for exhaust systems. You can use them as antenna as well.
I have a D-link "G" wireless router. After going thru all the growing pains of getting it hooked up right and working, (first network) it has worked beautifully. I get reception in my entire apartment. This apartment is a decent size, but the walls are stone (as all houses in Germany are). This router will work with "B" as well, but I went ahead with "G" anyways. The price diff was between a "B" and a "G" was so small I said, what the heck.
At the university, there is a "B" system that does not get very good reception. Granted, I don't know where the transmitter is located, but I have never been able to get a good signal.
Please don't take my word as gospel though as I'm new to this WLAN thing.
turbojimmy
Supporting Member
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From what I understand the "g" could interfere with 2.4ghz phones and other stuff.
If you're just connecting to a DSL or Cable Internet connection, the B is fine (and cheap now). In that case the limiting factor is the speed of your Internet connection.
The between-machines communication is a bit slow on the 'b' compared to hard-wire or 'g".
I buy Linksys stuff. They're backed by Cisco and I've never had a problem with any of their stuff. I've had issues with D-link and Netgear software being flaky.
Jim
A few things to keep in mind
1- Most G routers will step down to only 10mbs once a single B client connects.
2- Unless you will be transfering large files from PC to PC it won't help much. Your internet connection really determines how fast you can go, even a B router can't be maxed out by most home connections.
3- If running G on a laptop you may see greatly reduced battery life. I have run into this a few times.
1- Most G routers will step down to only 10mbs once a single B client connects.
2- Unless you will be transfering large files from PC to PC it won't help much. Your internet connection really determines how fast you can go, even a B router can't be maxed out by most home connections.
3- If running G on a laptop you may see greatly reduced battery life. I have run into this a few times.
Many of the issues with a dual use B&G stepping down in speed have been resolved.
I too suggest you not worry about the upgrade just yet unless there are some file transfers or large downloads you need to do (or uploads!). G is MUCH faster especially if your B system steps down to maintain connectivity.
Ive got the Linksys WRT54G and find the range to be pretty decent, the best part being is they are waaaay underpowered but via command line it can be remedied Overclock if you will. I can go a couple of houses in either direction in the informal "wardrive" I did to myself without any mods so I havent bothered. The 54G runs Linux 2.x.x
Ive also had some limited experience with the Apple Airports - these seem to do pretty good also but doesnt incorporate the router functions or LAN switch like the linksys. I can say these are not affected by simultaneous B & G usage.
The newer systems seem to be better at handling a "lockdown" without sacrificing much if anything for speed. Used to be on B when you were anal about security performance suffered. I *think* the newer B setups are better about it, but can say at least that the two G setups Ive messed with handled this ok.
Currently, I am not running encryption (bring it!) but instead turned off the broadcasting of the SSID and only allow access by two diff MAC addresses... THEN if you do gain access, you still need a password for the management... AND hope your MAC spoof still works since it has a seperate config for what machines can access the internet. After Ive had it running for a while and finish some more config, I'll start REALLY locking it down again.
S
I too suggest you not worry about the upgrade just yet unless there are some file transfers or large downloads you need to do (or uploads!). G is MUCH faster especially if your B system steps down to maintain connectivity.
Ive got the Linksys WRT54G and find the range to be pretty decent, the best part being is they are waaaay underpowered but via command line it can be remedied
Overclock if you will. I can go a couple of houses in either direction in the informal "wardrive" I did to myself without any mods so I havent bothered. The 54G runs Linux 2.x.xIve also had some limited experience with the Apple Airports - these seem to do pretty good also but doesnt incorporate the router functions or LAN switch like the linksys. I can say these are not affected by simultaneous B & G usage.
The newer systems seem to be better at handling a "lockdown" without sacrificing much if anything for speed. Used to be on B when you were anal about security performance suffered. I *think* the newer B setups are better about it, but can say at least that the two G setups Ive messed with handled this ok.
Currently, I am not running encryption (bring it!) but instead turned off the broadcasting of the SSID and only allow access by two diff MAC addresses... THEN if you do gain access, you still need a password for the management... AND hope your MAC spoof still works since it has a seperate config for what machines can access the internet. After Ive had it running for a while and finish some more config, I'll start REALLY locking it down again.
S
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Speed in this wireless environment is misleading
Thing is....The DSL or cable modem is the limiting factor in speed. My wireless 802.11B is ten times faster than the DSL connection.
Thing is....The DSL or cable modem is the limiting factor in speed. My wireless 802.11B is ten times faster than the DSL connection.
Whoops, sorry! True! Its hard to saturate an internet connection with wireless...
Shouldacoulda said - if you dont have max capacity due to other variables (security, walls, distance) AND/OR if you are doing file transfers (LAN) G is much faster.
S
Shouldacoulda said - if you dont have max capacity due to other variables (security, walls, distance) AND/OR if you are doing file transfers (LAN) G is much faster.
S
Ok, I have a cable modem feeding a dlink router/switch (wired). I want to add a couple wireless ports also. what should I do? I won't be doing a lot of filetransfer stuff over the wireless, just surfing and some data backup to the other PC's.
Thanks
Bob
Thanks
Bob
hey Bob.
Im assuming these are for laptops? Actually, it doesnt matter....
There are some combos out there that come with an AccessPoint (AP) AND a wireless card (NIC).
Since you already have a router, I suggest an access point. These do not do routing and do not have additional ports (hub/switch) but cost a less also.
Im not going to tell you what is "best" as I havent tried them all. I will suggest that you:
*change the default password on any internet appliance as soon as you can
*disable remote administration. This is often the default but you do NOT want the option to configure devices from the internet.
*I prefer to change the default IP address if using static
*its a long shot anything would happen in MY area, but make sure your machines are patched if using Windows should an infected machine wardrive your neighborhood (still not likely).
*Restrict access to your wireless device so that only the MAC addresses you allow can use it. This should be a minimum.
*Logs! Confusing? Maybe. But knowing you have them can come in handy.
*Check user reviews online, but be aware of the posted dates! This technology moves quickly and firmware updates can fix a lot!
*Go to a buddies house to see what he is using, maybe even take a laptop along to test with.
*NOT required but if you dont already have the NIC, get the AP and NIC from the same company.
Im thinking of something like this:
http://www.linksys.com/products/product.asp?grid=33&scid=35&prid=608
or
http://netgear.com/products/prod_details.php?prodID=170&view=
D-link, Netgear, Apple, and several others now offer entry level solutions. Bundles may or may not be available direct from manufacturer... the resellers are often the ones doing it.
Shawn
Im assuming these are for laptops? Actually, it doesnt matter....
There are some combos out there that come with an AccessPoint (AP) AND a wireless card (NIC).
Since you already have a router, I suggest an access point. These do not do routing and do not have additional ports (hub/switch) but cost a less also.
Im not going to tell you what is "best" as I havent tried them all. I will suggest that you:
*change the default password on any internet appliance as soon as you can
*disable remote administration. This is often the default but you do NOT want the option to configure devices from the internet.
*I prefer to change the default IP address if using static
*its a long shot anything would happen in MY area, but make sure your machines are patched if using Windows should an infected machine wardrive your neighborhood (still not likely).
*Restrict access to your wireless device so that only the MAC addresses you allow can use it. This should be a minimum.
*Logs! Confusing? Maybe. But knowing you have them can come in handy.
*Check user reviews online, but be aware of the posted dates! This technology moves quickly and firmware updates can fix a lot!
*Go to a buddies house to see what he is using, maybe even take a laptop along to test with.
*NOT required but if you dont already have the NIC, get the AP and NIC from the same company.
Im thinking of something like this:
http://www.linksys.com/products/product.asp?grid=33&scid=35&prid=608
or
http://netgear.com/products/prod_details.php?prodID=170&view=
D-link, Netgear, Apple, and several others now offer entry level solutions. Bundles may or may not be available direct from manufacturer... the resellers are often the ones doing it.
Shawn
password and most security stuff done.
I want to add 1 laptop, one desktop to the network.
so 1 AP can talk to 2 (NIC) machines...?
What technology are the Starbucks using (Tmobile I think) incase I get in the mood for coffee, and take the 'puter..
Thanks!
Bob
You can add those two machines without any problem... and several others besides.
If I were to recommend anything, it would be an B/G setup for cafe access, yet still be "current" enough.
G compliant devices are backward compatible with B! IOW, my Netgear PCMCIA card as well as my Linksys PCMCIA card are bot "G" capable but talk to "B" AP's without a problem.
If you havent yet picked up the laptop, you might consider getting one that has built in wireless too free up slots (sometimes they have better antenna setups too).
Shawn
If I were to recommend anything, it would be an B/G setup for cafe access, yet still be "current" enough.
G compliant devices are backward compatible with B! IOW, my Netgear PCMCIA card as well as my Linksys PCMCIA card are bot "G" capable but talk to "B" AP's without a problem.
If you havent yet picked up the laptop, you might consider getting one that has built in wireless too free up slots (sometimes they have better antenna setups too).
Shawn
Dan Thompson
New Member
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- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 778
I have two desktop computers upstairs and the laptop downstairs.
I am using the Linksys WRT54GS 'G' broadband router with SpeedBooster (4 ports) and a WPC54GS network adapter card with SpeedBooster. These will run with both B and G technology.
The input to the router is from a Toshiba cable modem.
I am using the Linksys WRT54GS 'G' broadband router with SpeedBooster (4 ports) and a WPC54GS network adapter card with SpeedBooster. These will run with both B and G technology.
The input to the router is from a Toshiba cable modem.
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