Billet Cranks...

PCS74:
He's convinced it was differences in materials, but I don't think he had a firm answer as to why. It was more a problem with cracking than breaking. I don't think many of them actually broke. My guess is the forging flexes more or dosen't remove heat as well. I personally would've thought the billet would crack easier due to the material being harder. Possibly the billet flexes less and removes heat better. I'm guessing here.
Chris
 
Maybe, but drag racing and circle track with rpms over 8k for long extended periods of time is not comparing scenarios properly. Even if heat is the issue, the crank in a 1/4 mile run will NEVER get as hot as it would in a roundy round motor.
 
True and I personally never saw a forged crank fail. I have seen them crack though. While we are not using them for extended periods you are also comparing 500 hp to 1400 hp.
Chris
 
Gentleman. there is a interesting article about cranks. forged and billet in this months hot rod magazine, htc. has 4360 billet cranks for 600 they are for small block chev, V8 just killing time OC. :rolleyes:
 
Originally posted by Buicksx2
Carl,

Great post and pretty much dead on, plus throw in the fact most Buick guys would want a group purchase on it, shipped tomorrow or else they wouldn't buy it. That pretty much explains why Scat amd Molex want 2 grand payable upfront and there is a 6 month wait. So unless Scat and Molex should feel "honored" to do it for the Buick crowd you won't get one out of them unless you pay em up front and are willing to wait. It's their bat and ball and tooling machines and time so gotta play by their rules.

Just my 2 cents.
Amen brother! Maybe if you purchased it on eBay you wouldn't have to wait the 6 months..... :eek:
 
Originally posted by nojug1
Is 2K a good price for a new off-center steel crank?
I think it depends on the brand and stroke. Assuming it's finished it's probably a descent price. I think some people have gotten them a little cheaper but waited 8 months for them. Seems prices new range from $1800 to $2500 depending on brand. You also need to know the stroke so you know the displacement and what kind of RMP you'll have to run to meet your goals.
 
Ok the crank Im going to buy is a wide journal for an off center Im not sure who its made by thou. I want to say its BGC (not Bowling Green Customs) or BTC something like that. Has anyone ever heard of them?
 
Originally posted by nojug1
Ok the crank Im going to buy is a wide journal for an off center Im not sure who its made by thou. I want to say its BGC (not Bowling Green Customs) or BTC something like that. Has anyone ever heard of them?
Is it new or used? I assumed 2K is for new. if it's new I'd think you should be able to get all the specifics. If it's new but you can't get any details I'd be a little leery. What's the stroke?
 
crank

the crank is probly h t c or hanks crank shaft, old hank the crank made a lot of cranks for nascar and usac, when they used buick motors, still makes a lot of cranks, just my opion,:cool:
 
Originally posted by nojug1
Ok the crank Im going to buy is a wide journal for an off center Im not sure who its made by thou. I want to say its BGC (not Bowling Green Customs) or BTC something like that. Has anyone ever heard of them?

Odell's probably right..Hank The Crank. By the way, the crank is the same for on or off-center; the rods are different. For $2k I'd want the original box and specs and some gentle kisses on my behind as I walk out the door. :D
 
Originally posted by KendallF
Odell's probably right..Hank The Crank. By the way, the crank is the same for on or off-center; the rods are different. For $2k I'd want the original box and specs and some gentle kisses on my behind as I walk out the door. :D
I agree, this is the price you can get a new one for depending on the vendor if you are willing to wait for it. It better be perfect!
 
Kendall's right on the same crank for on- or off-center. However, the counterweights need to be beveled to clear the main webs on an on-center block. It's probably already done on just about every steel crank. But FYI, a stock cast crank will not clear the main webs in an on-center block without reworking the counterweights. Just a little trivia. :D
BTW Kendall, enjoy that tunnel ram. I figured you'd be asleep that late EST. :D
 
Originally posted by Mac in SD

BTW Kendall, enjoy that tunnel ram. I figured you'd be asleep that late EST. :D

Hehehehe...I was; Auction Stealer rocks, eh? :D I'll probably sell that 4 bbl intake soon if you want one that doesn't have any JB Weld in it. :D :D
 
Pre-eBay Offers?

Speaking of cranks...

Any one interested in a Buick MotorSports 3.4 off-center std/std?

(With Carillos?)
______________________________________________

Would rather sell to known board members than chance encountering more non-paying bidders on eBay, if possible.

If you genuinely need the combo, just ask any Qs & make your best fair offer by PM in next 24 hours. Will be in new owner's garage very soon. Selling the farm for TA long-block.

Thanks!
 
BILLET CRANK

I am a tool and die/mold maker and can ashure you the cost of making a crank is far greater than what is stated above. you will eat up $$ in inserts taps and drill bits plus you have to heat treat the machined blank and do the final grind work

forging vers billet
most forged cranks are twist forgings a flat bar stock is forged flat so all the rod jurnnals are in a flat row and than they are twisted into position so you have 12 oclock 4 oclock 7 oclock in the case of the v6 this weekens the forging there was also so controvercy about the crank flexing were it was twisted that is why most production high po engines now use cast cranks IE the LS1 were forgings were once common place
 
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