Bleeding brakes with jumper valve

[John Larkin]

I installed a jumper valve in my brake system. Plumbed properly, valve seems to function properly, etc. I went through the standard bleeding sequence last night (RR, LR, RF, LF) and bled each wheel with the jumper valve energized and de-energized. Started car and had soft pedal and brake light. No bubbles were in the clear line I had on each bleeder (I use one of those little one-man bleeder cups).

Only thing I can think to do now is rebleed with valve de-energized, then go back around with valve energized. Surely this will deplete the air from the system since obviously there is some.

Any suggestions appreciated.

 

[tim87tr]

I may not know about this jumper valve, or is that a line lock? I installed the line lock after the prop valve and used the pump kit to bleed the brakes with the line lock not on, de-energized, and that worked. Did your brake fluid reservoir run dry during the bleed procedure maybe?

 

[John Larkin]

It's a cartridge-style solenoid activated valve that bypasses fluid around the proportioning valve when energized. I'm heading out to get a quart of fluid and go through it again. We'll see what happens. Thanks!

 

[tim87tr]

So this also allows for a higher boost launch? I think I read about the jumper valve before. John, when I bled my brakes with the one person vacuam system, I really bled a lot out of each area and made sure the reservoir was full, checking it often since I was doing the work by myself. The only reason I mention this is because I was surprised mine worked out the first time

 

[John Larkin]

I found my mistake. The valve I am using has an extra port. When I energized the valve, I was shutting off fluid flow to the prop valve. I am relocating the prop valve line to a "T" inline with the master cylinder outlet and plugging the extra port. This should fix the problem. Looking back, I'm only out of pocket an extra pipe thread plug and a good bit of brtake fluid so not too bad of a setback though I'd like to have avoided all the head scratching and frustration this weekend. However, my fluid is really clean now!

 

[John Larkin]

It's bled. Needed a Mity-Vac to rebleed the master cylinder and on through the line-lock too. Finally no brake light and it is stopping. I wish the pedal was better; it's had too much travel for my tastes since the vacuum conversion. It does stop fine though. Onto long shoes in the rear and we'll see what she can do.

 

[ChrisCairns]

I'd be interested in how your valve works. I had one on a car I bought years ago....and I was never impressed with it. It seemed like I could hold the same boost with the 'noid activated or not.

Still have the damn thing on my shelf too.

Chris

 

[J Banning]

John,
When I put mine in, I did the bleeding process just as you first described. I also used one of the Mity Vacs... what a great tool. Just make sure you don't drain the master cylinder (as I did TWO times) or you'll have to start all over again. I think I went through 2 1/2 quarts of fluid

Good to hear you got it working.

-Baninng.