Eric,
Here is a MUST DO list when R&R cylinder head gaskets:
1) Fel-Pro 9441pt head gaskets, or OEM gaskets (virtually the same thing)
2) ARP head bolts, use teflon thread sealant on the threads, and ARP lube on BOTH sides of the included washers. (20w50 racing oil will work, too)
3) Walbro 340 in tank fuel pump
4) Fuel pump hot wire kit (from any of the vendors on this site, or make your own)
5) Adjustable fuel presure regulator (again, any vendor on this site)
6) New valve springs, valve grind, seals. (do NOT have the machinst touch the valve guides UNLESS they are bad. I have seen way too many machinsts SCREW-UP valve guides. Do NOT install valve seals on the exhaust guides unless you step up to aftermarket stainless valves. A good three angle valve job is a good step, pocket porting the heads will net you 25-30 hp., for just a few bucks. Verify the head surface and mill IF it is more than .002" out, if it is not out, LEAVE THE DECK OF THE HEADS ALONE!!! Have the rocker pedistals ground down to clear roller rockers in case you decide to go that route in the future. It only takes a few minutes to do now with the heads off. Have the machinist set the spring seat pressure to about 90 lbs. closed with new springs and a stock cam.
7) Install all of the electrical grounds on the boss of the intake manifold under the coil pack. It is the boss that the factory wire loom bolts to. Leave the loom un bolted, as it makes it easier to R&R valve cover gaskets in the future. Be SURE to file the top of the boss down a little to remove all the factory epoxy paint. I also add a short ground wire from this boss to the fire wall. Grounds are REAL important on these cars. You will have to cut some of the electrical tape off of the wiring harness to get enough length to reach under the coil pack, but there IS plenty of slack in there to reach. (OR, you can buy a ground kit from Caspers, and it will do the same thing)
8) Replace the vacuum hoses to the wastegate solonoid and actuator with fuel line, NOT vacuum line. Fuel line will hold up MUCH better over time. They DO make fuel line in 3/16, 1/4", ect. Go to NAPA and get it. I use fuel hose or push-lok hose for all boost control applications. You DON'T want these hoses to fail, or it WILL casue a repeat of what you are going through.
9) Get with someone local that has done LOTS of head gaskets/engine builds and ask them for pointers. You can also PM me and I can help walk you through it if you need help. Doing your own work is a GREAT idea.
10) Check the headers for cracks. They ALL crack. Just weld them up, and you will be fine.
11) After torquing the head bolts, wait 15 minutes and then, go back and individually loosen each bolt and then go to full torque again. It dosn't matter what pattern you do this final step in.
12) Use a light coat of Ultra-Black silicone on both sides of the intake gaskets around the water ports. Use non hardening Permatex aviation sealant around the ports, but use it sparingly.
13) Install the factory style head gaskets COMPLETELY dry. The gasket is a graphite compound and nothing will stick to it anyway. A wasted step to spray anything on them. They are engineered to be installed dry.
14) Have your injectors flow tested/cleaned, or step up to a set of MSD 50 lb. injectors or even the 60/65 lb. Motrons with a matching chip for what ever injectors you buy. I really hate to install stock injectors, even in a completely stock engine. Most guys want to keep adding power as time goes by, so why not use a good injector now.
The MSD's will still give you good fuel economy.
Here is a list of things that woud be a good idea now that the heads are off:
1) Ported stock heads. The ONLY down side to ported iron heads is the cost.
2) Bigger turbo. TE-44, or similar, will net you about approx. 75 hp over stock and will still work good with a stock converter.
3) MAF translator and a 3.5" MAF. THe stock MAF's are no longer available and upgrading now is a good idea, though not required.
4) A 3" down pipe will net you approx. 25 hp over the stock kincked up 2.5" and cast elbow.
5) A test pipe and high flow exhaust Another 20-30 hp.
6) A stock location intercooler. Good to about 600 HP. Stay away from front mount intercoolers unless you get a killer deal on one. The stock location I/C from Precision is a real nice piece.
7) None of these mods will hurt driveabilty, except in the rain.
:biggrin:
As soon as I saw the things I saw, I understood why what happened, happened. Now, looking forward, with the help of all of you here, I know what to watch out for, what to get, and how to prevent this from happening again. 
He got the car just because he knew what it is--he doesn't know anything else about it, is not really "into" these cars, and is very thick-headed about listening to those that do know what they're talking about so I'm waiting for him to blow a head gasket or worse. I run nothing less than Sunoco 94 octane in mine and I run the boost at a very safe level, about 16 psi. I never see much more than 2 degrees of knock retard on the Scanmaster and even that's somewhat of a rarity. Hope something I said helps...Oh yeah, change out your thermostat to a 160 degree one and block off the small coolant lines going to your throttle body--running cooler engine & intake air temps is also important to avoid detonation.
