Bogging/Sputtering confusion

[Cool Beans (Alex)]

So recently my MAF acquired a hole causing a post MAF air leak causing the car to bog and sputter under acceleration. I bought a new 3.5 MAF with a translator. I also bought a new adjustable FPR (accufab), pressure set at 42 (vacuum line off). I have stock injectors and stock fuel pump, with a TT 5.7 chip. Now the car sputters and bogs under acceleration worse than before. All of my scanmaster readings are within spec and have no malfunction codes. I do not currently have a mounted fuel pressure gauge or a datalogger. The weirdest thing about it all is I can brake torque it and spin the tires with no bog, it only sputters when im driving, any suggestions here? I am at a loss, especially after spending $700+

 

[turbo89]

So recently my MAF acquired a hole causing a post MAF air leak causing the car to bog and sputter under acceleration. I bought a new 3.5 MAF with a translator. I also bought a new adjustable FPR (accufab), pressure set at 42 (vacuum line off). I have stock injectors and stock fuel pump, with a TT 5.7 chip. Now the car sputters and bogs under acceleration worse than before. All of my scanmaster readings are within spec and have no malfunction codes. I do not currently have a mounted fuel pressure gauge or a datalogger. The weirdest thing about it all is I can brake torque it and spin the tires with no bog, it only sputters when im driving, any suggestions here? I am at a loss, especially after spending $700+

Did you double check the translator settings?

 

[Cool Beans (Alex)]

Yes I set it to the specs they provided, 0 rich/lean and 0 for 3.5 MAF. What would happen if I changed the setting to the "extender" chip

 

[Gene Van Horn]

I know you said your scanmaster number are line but i would take a look at the o2 senser. I would also get a hot wire kit on that fuel system just for giggles.

 

[turbo89]

I know you said your scanmaster number are line but i would take a look at the o2 senser. I would also get a hot wire kit on that fuel system just for giggles.

I would go one further.. If it has the stock pump.. Ummm i think its time

 

[Cool Beans (Alex)]

I was thinking pump too, and my o2 is only about a year old with good constant readings but I'll double check them, I'll look into pumps tonight

 

[Cool Beans (Alex)]

What confuses me the most is why would it be fine doing a burn out But not while driving?

 

[Gene Van Horn]

Yea that's confusing, you would think under the power of burn out it would also cough and sputter. Could be fuel related but you said it has 42 pounds. Check o2 and recheck translater, i know there is few settings in those things. I got tired of chasing what could be fuel related problems, bought the hood mounted gauge, not the best look,but def tell if its rising one to one like its supposed to.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Unplug the cam sensor with the engine running and go for a ride..

 

[Chuck Leeper]

What confuses me the most is why would it be fine doing a burn out But not while driving?

Because the engine load is only enough to break traction. While driving, you are attempting to accelerate a 3700# load.

 

[TTA308]

Put your old FPR back on and see what it does..

 

[Cool Beans (Alex)]

Unplugged the cam sensor, was only slightly better, pretty much no change, still shutters and chugs. Checked and messed with translator settings and those are spot on. Finally, I turned down fuel pressure to match old pressure regulator output, no change. In my head I keep thinking vacuum leak but all my clamps are tight, and I've used a whole can of brake cleaner on the intake with no idle changes.

 

[Cool Beans (Alex)]

How should I check the o2? Should I check cross count outputs or o2 output? Like I said sensor is about 1.5 year old. Also I have 30 lb Bosch injectors that previous owner installed

 

[turbo89]

Unplugged the cam sensor, was only slightly better, pretty much no change, still shutters and chugs. Checked and messed with translator settings and those are spot on. Finally, I turned down fuel pressure to match old pressure regulator output, no change. In my head I keep thinking vacuum leak but all my clamps are tight, and I've used a whole can of brake cleaner on the intake with no idle changes.

How should I check the o2? Should I check cross count outputs or o2 output? Like I said sensor is about 1.5 year old. Also I have 30 lb Bosch injectors that previous owner installed

If its the original pump.. Put a fuel
Pressure gauge on it so you can watch while driving.. Then report back.. Do a quick check on plug wires too

 

[Cool Beans (Alex)]

Plug wires are less than a month old, MSD's I'll try to get a gauge to watch while driving

 

[TTA308]

Only takes 5mins, what do you have to lose?

 

[turbo89]

Plug wires are less than a month old, MSD's I'll try to get a gauge to watch while driving

I worked on a low mile MINT GN that the owner was about to sell .. for CHEAP money just because the car ran terrible while driving it .. started great, ran great at idle.. once you started to lean on the throttle a bit .. BOG .. stutter ... chugging .. so on.

I convinced him to put a fuel pressure gauge on it just to make sure it wasn't the OEM pump .. I explained to him what the gauge should do ( he is in his late 70's )
once he saw what the gauge did .. "ok how do we fix this now " /// new DW300 and a quick tune up and adjustments on the car and he is in 7th heaven again

check it .. it could be a real simple quick find.

 

[Cool Beans (Alex)]

Unplug the cam sensor with the engine running and go for a ride..

I ordered a pump and upon removal this is what I found. I went to the scrap yard and got 3 wire connectors for the caspers kit but am not sure about which wires are which.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

DO NOT use those "cut the wire" connectors...

 

[TurboBuRick]

This is correct ^^^ Should be the same colors on the plug from the bone yard. No?

I don't know whats going on there but yes I would reconnect the red wire to the factory wire.
Disconnect the scotch locks and remove those wires. That looks like a trailer light harness.
Put a dab of silicone on the wires where the scotch lock cut the wire insulation.