Bolt On Opinoins

[short_dustin]

Hi everyone, I just bought an '87 T and I'm going to take the body off the frame this winter, paint and powder coat everything under the car and have the body straightened and painted rosewood. I want to rebuild the motor stock again because I can't afford $10,000 for everything it costs to build the motor so...I need some help on what would be an effective set up on a stock rotating assembly.

I will drive this car no further than 30-40 miles from home ever and only on weekends (if I have time). I want a bigger turbo, down pipe, exhaust, fuel pump, injectors...basically everything but the rotating assembly can be changed. As for heads I have no idea, should I stay stock or port and polish them myself or buy GN-1 heads?

I don't need a "race car" just a fun car to drive on the weekends that's pretty fast and RELIABLE I do not want a car that I'm squeezing every single drop of power out of that's about to blow all the time. As always any recommendations are appreciated. I just don't want to waste money on things I don't need and I've only owned one other turbo buick and it was stock internals with te-44, 62lb injectors, down pipe, test pipe and 255 pump and it was okay to drive I just want something a little quicker than it was.

 

[Adrian87]

What converter, boost level and fuel were you running on the last one? Make it safe running at 25psi with a good converter and tires and I bet you would be happy with a similar combo.

 

[short_dustin]

So I'm thinking,

TE-44 Turbo
60lb Injectors
3" DP
3" Exhaust w/cut out
Walbro 255
Fuel Press Reg
LS1 MAF and MAF translator
2800 Stall

Does this sound like a good set up for a weekend driver?

 

[turbojd]

yes,thats similar to my combo.

 

[Pittsburghkid]

te-44 is old technology.

If your going to try to save money then yes a used te44 would be fine but if you want new go with the 6262.

 

[TurboDave]

I don't know, a 6262 is a huge jump up. 44's are still a great choice, and if he wants to step up to newer technology and stay at about the 44's level (so as not to require anything crazy for a torgue converter) a new 585x would be a good turbo choice.

 

[jasjamz]

Hi-z 79/80lb injectors and Chip Turbo Tweak is what I like.
Duttweiler neck intercooler or Used PTE front mount.
LT1 valve springs
A decent converter that will stall at 2800-3000 rpm at 0-1 psi
The 6262 billet wheel Turbo.
Drag Radial
RJC 3" downpipe with the huge Puck.
Razors Alky or E85. Is it available near you?

If a person is upgrading the converter. I can't see a problem with going to the 6262. The 5862 I haven't tried, but the have experience driven four different cars with the 6262. From stock bolt on cars to built motors. Its really going to make a name for itsself if given more opportunities.

 

[Nick Micale]

te-44 is old technology........

Our cars and engines ARE also "old technology".

The 44/49's are still an excellent choice for this build.

We had an "old technology" TE-45A run a 10.2 last weekend in a fully street legal Limited, and he easily left a race GN at the lights! :biggrin:

What is more important than "new technology", is the proper combination of parts for a given performance level.

 

[short_dustin]

Should I mess with a cam or throttle body or intake?

Also I'm looking at a Precision 6076 turbo any experience or thoughts?

 

[Pittsburghkid]

Our cars and engines ARE also "old technology".

The 44/49's are still an excellent choice for this build.

We had an "old technology" TE-45A run a 10.2 last weekend in a fully street legal Limited, and he easily left a race GN at the lights! :biggrin:

What is more important than "new technology", is the proper combination of parts for a given performance level.

You make a good point and damn a 10.2 with a 44. Thats real nice.

 

[Nick Micale]

You make a good point and damn a 10.2 with a 44. Thats real nice.

Thanks, but a TE-45A turbo uses a 66mm compressor wheel.

 

[jasjamz]

NIck, I learn a ton from researching old posts. I think the same way you do on several concepts with cars and builds. It seems that the Billet units are not being given a fair shake from some of the more seasoned and trusted members on this board. In no way am I pointing the finger at you for their actions but since I can relate to your opinions on builds and way of thinking I'd rather discuss this with you.
How many guys have you seen start out with a mid 12 or mid 11 second goal, only to want to go faster?
Do you think someone should buy a converter and turbo that will require them to run boost and timing on the very high side to meet their goal?
The new technology is here to help us but it seems some don't view it that way. How many cars have you put billet turbos on? have you had any negative results when going from a cast to a billet unit?

 

[Nick Micale]

.........How many guys have you seen start out with a mid 12 or mid 11 second goal, only to want to go faster?

Do you think someone should buy a converter and turbo that will require them to run boost and timing on the very high side to meet their goal?

The new technology is here to help us but it seems some don't view it that way. How many cars have you put billet turbos on? have you had any negative results when going from a cast to a billet unit?

Most of the cars I have done over the years ALL want to go faster! :biggrin: When this happens, they sell the slower stuff to buy the faster stuff.

It is critical that the turbo and converter match for the desired performance level. I know of a few billet wheels that have been destroyed, and one local turbo had the billet wheel replaced 3 times.

What is the benefit of a billet wheel?

To me, 90% of the turbo Buicks cannot, and do not need, or can use effectively, either a billet wheel or a ball bearing center section to improve performance, especially on street driving. All-out, heads up class racing may be a different story.

I love much of the new technology and use it when I can, wherever it helps - XFI, electronic boost controller, better engine and trans parts are just some of the items helps us go faster, be more consistent AND reliable.

 

[big reazon]

Thumbs up to Nick Alot of people make it seem like you have to have the newest and best to go fast. I've talked to a couple vets on this site and there combos for what you are trying to do all seem pretty basic and low buck.

 

[bison]

Should I mess with a cam or throttle body or intake?

Also I'm looking at a Precision 6076 turbo any experience or thoughts?

I have a large shaft version of it in my blue car aka 60-1. With a 9.5" PTC and a few other good parts it went 10.61. The motor is junk and only has 7.5:1 CR and heads with only a bowl clean up. You need a converter that works on both ends if you want to really fly with a small turbo. A lot of guys think the performance with a NL converter like the one i used can be duplicated with a lockup but the truth is it can not if the converter was built for the power level it will be run at.

 

[bison]

Most of the cars I have done over the years ALL want to go faster! :biggrin: When this happens, they sell the slower stuff to buy the faster stuff.

It is critical that the turbo and converter match for the desired performance level. I know of a few billet wheels that have been destroyed, and one local turbo had the billet wheel replaced 3 times.

What is the benefit of a billet wheel?

To me, 90% of the turbo Buicks cannot, and do not need, or can use effectively, either a billet wheel or a ball bearing center section to improve performance, especially on street driving. All-out, heads up class racing may be a different story.

I love much of the new technology and use it when I can, wherever it helps - XFI, electronic boost controller, better engine and trans parts are just some of the items helps us go faster, be more consistent AND reliable.

That is an unbiased post if ive ever seen it. More like 98-99% on the turbo comment from what i see on here. Very few run a pressure ratio where those billet wheels really outshine a similar sized cast wheel. On these small turbos i see more benefit on the street with a BB turbo that has a marginal converter but at the strip there is not much there.

 

[bison]

low buck.

nothing fast or not for long if those two words could be used to describe it.

 

[big reazon]

nothing fast or not for long if those two words could be used to describe it.

Yeah I know nothing good is usually low buck but you dont have to have the 1500 dollar turbo to go fast when the 850 dollar ones will get you there. People on here make it seam if that they need the latest and greatest of everything. If you read some of these sigs and see the times people are running then you look at the vets such as you and Nick you guys get it done with alot less. Then when you guys do have all the pieces everybody has you guys run singe digit 1/4 miles.

 

[Pittsburghkid]

Thanks, but a TE-45A turbo uses a 66mm compressor wheel.

I misread it. I was really impressed there. Is a 10.2 even possible with a te44?