boost control options

[Liv4dnzz]

so factory, this car uses the electronic solenoid that opens the wastegate?

can i unplug that line to the solenoid and just use the adjustable wastegate actuator?

is there a reason to have both a manual boost controller and adj wastegate?

how do they work hand and hand?

i just have zero trust in that solenoid

 

[Hotrodbuick]

You can unplug it, but depending on what chip you have the car with throw a code from not being plugged in. I've been reading and a lot of guys just leave it plugged in and take the hose from turbo and run straight to their actuator and tuck the solenoid under the intake. No need really for a boost controller unless your running external waste gate. Hope this helps.

 

[Liv4dnzz]

so when i get my chip re burnt i can just have him delete that code?


so how would i run the vacuum lines, do i still need that special Y connector
i have the nipple on the turbo, and waste gate nipple?

 

[Liv4dnzz]

i think i answered my own question, so i just connect the turbo nipple straight into the waste gate actuator, so the only thing that controls boost pressure is the wastegate rod, correct?

 

[Hotrodbuick]

Which chip do you have? I believe the TT chips already have it deleted but like I said you can leave the wires plugged in and tuck the whole thing under the intake. Yes run boost like from compressor housing straight to waste gate. The rod on the waste gate lets you control boost. Not sure which way to turn for more or less as I have an external gate on my car, you can do a search to see where to start with it as I would not connect it like that an go out and stomp it because boost may be too high.

 

[Hotrodbuick]

Don't need the y connector anymore. That's for the solenoid.

 

[fastblackracing]

When you delete the solenoid you will lose boost unless you shorten the length of the rod or put a bleed valve in, the solenoid is a duty cycle %--- Think pulsed air bleed to be used in conjunction with the rod arm length. It is used to tailor a boost curve, higher boost in certain gears etc... I have seen boost controlled by many different methods, the best setup is the one that will get your boost up to your maximum setting the fastest and hold it there with the least amount of creep or drop off. Any header leaks you have will also influence this, I have seen cars with crappy boost control drift 6-8 pounds or more on the same wot run.

 

[Liv4dnzz]

Ok thank you all I needed to know, so the more opposing tension on the rod is less boost correct?

 

[Hotrodbuick]

So your saying without the solenoid you will not be able to make as much boost because I thought the solenoid bled off extra boost when not needed? I always thought with line connected straight from compressor housing that is the most boost you will see?

 

[Liv4dnzz]

That's what I thought, when it reaches certain pressure and opens to bleed it like a waste gate but on the cold side

 

[fastblackracing]

No, the solenoid vents pressure that is used to push on the actuator piston that pushes the wastgate open, if you bypass the solenoid you delete the vent and now you have more push on the actuator wich opens the wastegate more. It has nothing to do with bleeding boost off the cold side.

 

[ZNix]

Ok thank you all I needed to know, so the more opposing tension on the rod is less boost correct?

Hey Liv. I suggest you get a manual boost controller. Ill post pictures of the one I built for like 8$ from hardware store pieces. It holds boost rock solid everywhere and you dont need an adjustable actuator. Also will decrease spool time a little.

 

[Liv4dnzz]

I will start that way And see what kind of boost it will hold with just the waste gate rod, if it's not enough I'm gonna get a simple manual controller

 

[ZNix]

Here you go dude. Hope its not too big. If you have any questions, just ask. It looked like crap after putting it together, so I just polished it with some fine grit sandpaper and polishing compound. Came out really nice. It was cheap to make. 8$ I think. HTH

Zack

 

[Liv4dnzz]

so would i just leave the wastegate at a neutral tension, and use the manual to control the boost?

 

[ZNix]

Correct. Just remember how the wastegate works. When air enters, it pushes the arm open, letting the gases from the turbine wheel out to decrease compressor speed, and boost then decreases. With the manual boost controller, it will only let air out when the pressure from the compressor overcomes the pressure of the spring on the ball bearing. That can be at whatever pressure you want according to how stiff the spring is. The screw I have there controls the stiffness of the spring. You may need to play with different springs, but I happened to find one that fit and worked perfectly. I also sharpened the end of the allen-headed bolt to fit perfectly in the spring to keep it centered on the ball bearing and opening to the fitting. Its very easy to make and I'd be glad to dig up the parts information.

Zack

 

[Hotrodbuick]

Manual boost controllers are very nice, because once you figure out what boost you want to run just tune the controller to that setting and leave it alone, boost should always go to that level. Nice one you made for 8 bucks

 

[Liv4dnzz]

ok sounds good, the spring side of the nozzle goes to thshes the compressor housing correct? so all its doing is telling the wastegate when to open when it hits that certain psi the spring and ball opens and pushes the wastegate open,

what about surge? i had a post a while ago about a BOV,

and also why doesnt everyone use use a manual?

 

[ZNix]

ok sounds good, the spring side of the nozzle goes to thshes the compressor housing correct? so all its doing is telling the wastegate when to open when it hits that certain psi the spring and ball opens and pushes the wastegate open,

what about surge? i had a post a while ago about a BOV,

and also why doesnt everyone use use a manual?

You are correct.

I've never experienced surging in my car, with my boost controller set-up this way.

Not sure why, honestly. Some people prefer an electronic system for greater adjust-ability, as well as on the fly/in cabin adjustments. Other people use the waste-gate rod because it's easier maybe? A LOT of people go with the RJC valve, which is basically a smaller version of this set-up. It is a MBC. I like the MBC because it decreases spool time, and also is easier to adjust than the rod from the wastegate.

 

[HelloBozos]

Your bleeding off air just before the solenoid with manual boost bleed valve. Cheap ,Easy,simple an less roasting your fingers on the Arm, if you start adjusting the Actuator arm to much you defeat its vacuum controlled diaphragm,possibly tearing it, They sale HD Actuator to help in that case. Slowly work your way up from Full Closed bleed valve,now you can over-boost if turn it to much-too fast, 4-5 test rides you'll get it,stay under 19psi on 93,stock motor