boost flutter at wot along with sputtering

Well Brian i just dont know... its like you need to try to put a stock head back on there to see if it goes away.

but just one more time for kicks and giggles if you have the autolite 24, the champion requires 103s i think better search and see im off to work now cant look it up for ya yet,
but just for kicks start this time with the plugs at .024 gap then work up if it doesnt do it but this is as low you can go i think. just try it i know you did .30 or was it .28, but just go to .024 on these , I'll look up the autolite 103 but they were for alum. i dont know what the irons were. later dude hope u find it.
 
well got it back together ad it is still doing the same thing the coolant temp is down to 158 driving and idle. at a loss

I know you're past the point of frustration, and not looking to spend any more $$$ that might not fix the issue, but.... We could really use some Powerlogger files!!


K.
 
Well Brian i just dont know... its like you need to try to put a stock head back on there to see if it goes away.

but just one more time for kicks and giggles if you have the autolite 24, the champion requires 103s i think better search and see im off to work now cant look it up for ya yet,
but just for kicks start this time with the plugs at .024 gap then work up if it doesnt do it but this is as low you can go i think. just try it i know you did .30 or was it .28, but just go to .024 on these , I'll look up the autolite 103 but they were for alum. i dont know what the irons were. later dude hope u find it.
thanks but this is at 16 psi of boost. dont think i need a tight gap. if i stay into it the car just shuts off like someone shut the car off then i lift the pedal a little and it comes back around

I know you're past the point of frustration, and not looking to spend any more $$$ that might not fix the issue, but.... We could really use some Powerlogger files!!


K.
yes i know i need this. i talked to khai and i told him the problem started after i packed all the sensor plugs with dielectric grease and the control module too. do you think it is cross arcing at high load or rpm or is it insulating somthing
 
I talked to khai and i told him the problem started after i packed all the sensor plugs with dielectric grease and the control module too. do you think it is cross arcing at high load or rpm or is it insulating somthing

I'm not sure? :confused: I've never used any dielectric other than on the plug wires @ the coil. I guess there's one way to know for sure...


K.
 
I know you're past the point of frustration, and not looking to spend any more $$$ that might not fix the issue, but.... We could really use some Powerlogger files!!


K.

doing the powerlogger 2maro. hope it shows something
 
I'd 1st clean-out all that dielectric grease--especially out of main/multi-pin connector to ICM. Too much of a good thing for multiple connections in a tight space--YES,, CLEAN IT OUT PLEASE...this is almost a freebie,,,,,,,,,,,

Clean out both ends of connector with spray-can solvent (carb/throttle-body/brake cleaner...)--Please PROTECT YOUR EYES W/ GLASSES/GOGGLES
 
thanks but this is at 16 psi of boost. dont think i need a tight gap. if i stay into it the car just shuts off like someone shut the car off then i lift the pedal a little and it comes back around

yes i know i need this. i talked to khai and i told him the problem started after i packed all the sensor plugs with dielectric grease and the control module too. do you think it is cross arcing at high load or rpm or is it insulating somthing

I'm not sure? :confused: I've never used any dielectric other than on the plug wires @ the coil. I guess there's one way to know for sure...


K.

does anyone think it is valve springs

No.....

I'd 1st clean-out all that dielectric grease--especially out of main/multi-pin connector to ICM. Too much of a good thing for multiple connections in a tight space--YES,, CLEAN IT OUT PLEASE...this is almost a freebie,,,,,,,,,,,

Clean out both ends of connector with spray-can solvent (carb/throttle-body/brake cleaner...)--Please PROTECT YOUR EYES W/ GLASSES/GOGGLES

+1 - clean the hell out of all the connectors you packed with grease....
 
I'd 1st clean-out all that dielectric grease--especially out of main/multi-pin connector to ICM. Too much of a good thing for multiple connections in a tight space--YES,, CLEAN IT OUT PLEASE...this is almost a freebie,,,,,,,,,,,

Clean out both ends of connector with spray-can solvent (carb/throttle-body/brake cleaner...)--Please PROTECT YOUR EYES W/ GLASSES/GOGGLES

yes cleaned out with no results. took it out today and it will stay in first until i let off. when it revs in first it is smooth and powerfull till it reaches 4500 rpm. then it will sputter out tailpipes and nose over and the boost gauge flutters back and forth 2psi. and then if i let off a little it will shift and go thru 2nd and do the same at 4500 rpm. also it hits 4500 and wont rev any higher.
 
powerlogger files here1st is idle values.
2nd is wot run from a creep. got to third gear and boost fell off to 10 psi as well as power fell. well hope you buick gurus can figure out this gremlin
 

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looking at my files my duty cycle is at 90% at 17psi with the alky at 7 my fuel pressure is 62. whats up with that? when i goto 23 psi i will be maxed. also my maf numbers are up and down 255 to 140 and back up repeating that.
 
It's pretty clear something is jacking with the maf. No? Possible alky pump interference? What do you think Julio?
 
Sometimes turbo-surge can knock your revs, fall flat until you let off and get into it again. What's your performance history with your current turbo/ IC set-up?
 
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