boost to high

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kraus

Active Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2007
Messages
857
I have a problem with boost not staying down,it goes 23-26 no problem. I took controler off,put new actuator on from turbo smart still goes 23-26. Waste gate hole is ported to rjc internal puck. I am wondering if I have a leak and where. Does anybody have any other ideas.I have cometic headgaskets in car no internal leaks into motor no external that are visible. So what's best way to check hoses for intercooler etc. I am planning on running friday ,but not until this is solved
 
I have a problem with boost not staying down,it goes 23-26 no problem. I took controler off,put new actuator on from turbo smart still goes 23-26. Waste gate hole is ported to rjc internal puck. I am wondering if I have a leak and where. Does anybody have any other ideas.I have cometic headgaskets in car no internal leaks into motor no external that are visible. So what's best way to check hoses for intercooler etc. I am planning on running friday ,but not until this is solved

When did this start?
 
You have a rubber hose that is connected to a port on the compressor housing on one end and the boost solenoid or controller on the other end. You also have another hose that goes from the boost solenoid or controller to the wastegate actuator. If either or both of these hoses is cracked,broken,or disconnected at either end,the boost pressure will not be allowed to open the wastegate because it will leak into the atmosphere. If the wastegate doesn't open the turbo will over boost.
 
When did this start?[/quot ] this started about the time i went to the 6765 dbb billtet turbo last year. Pushed head gasket early spring this year were rjcs with studs. I changed to aluminum heads and cometics at this time about 6 weeks ago.
started before cometics went so i thought waste gate actuator so replaced it,with new turbo smart actuator that has a 14 psi spring in it,and same rod length etc as orginal.

You have a rubber hose that is connected to a port on the compressor housing on one end and the boost solenoid or controller on the other end. You also have another hose that goes from the boost solenoid or controller to the wastegate actuator. If either or both of these hoses is cracked,broken,or disconnected at either end,the boost pressure will not be allowed to open the wastegate because it will leak into the atmosphere. If the wastegate doesn't open the turbo will over boost.

i dont have any controler in car or solenoid,solenoid it is turned off in chip.so it is disconnected. line goes from turbo to actuator thats it. i have at idle 18 in hgs of vaccum according to gauge,wideband o2 is reading 14.1 in park at idle. car runs flawless except for boost issue. i replace line from actuator to gate with new same issue. puck in rjc down pipe is 1 5/8 came with pipe and flange new last year.
 

With your line going directly to the actuator you'll get the slowest spool up and the lowest boost that the actuator will allow. To get the lowest boost you'll have to adjust the rod so that a very minimal amount of pull will be needed to get it to slide onto the wastegate crank. How far do you have to pull the rod to get it to connect to the wastegate crank?
 
With your line going directly to the actuator you'll get the slowest spool up and the lowest boost that the actuator will allow. To get the lowest boost you'll have to adjust the rod so that a very minimal amount of pull will be needed to get it to slide onto the wastegate crank. How far do you have to pull the rod to get it to connect to the wastegate crank?


i have it so i have the minimi basicly can set it othe rod with out pulling rod out.but has enought to keep it against turbo housing. im going to pull down pipe back later todayand llok at puck area again.other then that i am scratching my head going wtf. it spools good and car goes but obviously i want boost to come down.Im going to double check wieric to make suresolenoid is shut off in chip also. because chip was done about this same time turbo was done. just in case its not for some reason.
 
i have it so i have the minimi basicly can set it othe rod with out pulling rod out.but has enought to keep it against turbo housing. im going to pull down pipe back later todayand llok at puck area again.other then that i am scratching my head going wtf. it spools good and car goes but obviously i want boost to come down.Im going to double check wieric to make suresolenoid is shut off in chip also. because chip was done about this same time turbo was done. just in case its not for some reason.

It doesn't matter if solenoid is shut off in chip. You don't have your lines hooked to a solenoid. Try running it with actuator disconnected from wastegate. Have you checked to see if actuator can hold vacuum? It acts like the wastegate isn't opening. Do you have another actuator?
 
I had a brand new one from prescion on before the turbo smart same result . It was a low boost actuator,I tried another one had laying around same ruslt. So this is why I am going hmm.
 
I had a brand new one from prescion on before the turbo smart same result . It was a low boost actuator,I tried another one had laying around same ruslt. So this is why I am going hmm.
Have you tried disconnecting the actuator from the wastegate so the wastegate can open?
 
. THEY MAKE BOISTEROUS CONTROLLERS AND ACTUATORS. I have not tried disconnecting it yet ,can I run it without a line on it,and cap of turbo feed....


The idea is to disconnect the arm (mechanically) from the wastegate flapper, so that there is nothing holding it closed. Beyond that you can leave the lines connected if you want, or remove them.

When the 65 turbine first came out, there were several people that could not get the boost below the mid 20's, porting and contouring the wastegate passage seems to be required to control these beasts.

Bob
 
The 65 f1 should not be used below 60lbs/min. First disconnect the wastegate arm and run it up as high as you ever would and see how high the boost gets. Till you do this you will not know if the actuator will be able to be adjusted
 
Can I run it without a line on it,and cap of turbo feed?

I'm not asking you to disconnect the hose. I'm asking you to disconnect the actuator where the rod hooks to the wastegate crank.

Just to be clear,you don,t have a turbo smart boost controller. You have a Turbosmart wastegate actuator. Am I correct?

It would,however,be a good idea to disconnect the hose from the actuator and blow through it to see if you have an obstruction. I'm wondering if your brass fitting,on the compressor housing,is not open.
 
ok i will disconnect the arm totally tommorrow ,i have some minor leaks at trans lines i need to fix first. the line on front of radiator is seeping a bit. The housing has been ported to the rjc puck already,and i did blow air thru the elbow in housing and can hear it going into turbo. Also i have the turbo smart billet gate correct,i have there controller also but it is off the car right now.
 
ok i figured i would just check the puck make sure it was 15/8 and it was. So then proceeded to check the port, and bam the hole was not even 1 inch,so turbo is off and i ported the hole to be about a lil over 1/8 inch of material left inside of puck outside edge.Taperd and blended housing inside to get aiflow in smoothly, and i think should be good. Got to put back on tomorrow it 100 here today,which sucks.So tomorrow i will post results.
 
well boost problem is solved nice solid 14psi,so port the hole from 3/4 of a inch to 11/2 solved it all is gooThanks everyone for your help .
 
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