BEATAV8
The Engine Whisperer
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2002
you could try mixing it. it would help richen it up for you. with the alky on top you might find a nice combination in there somewhere.
Bored, want to play with E-85 temporarily…
- Thread starter Squid4life
- Start date
Squid4life
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- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
Maybe start 60/40 E-85/91?
Thanks a bunch brother, really appreciate the help. Thanks to all, and by all means keep tossing out ideas and suggestions and experiences.
Thanks a bunch brother, really appreciate the help. Thanks to all, and by all means keep tossing out ideas and suggestions and experiences.
100%. A volt booster to give your pump a boost would be helpful.
Squid4life
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
Damn it... I just sold one I had laying around that I got with some other parts. I thought "hell, I will never need this"... This is why I tell my wife I should not sell anything, it will always be needed some day, on some project.
If you want to start with a mixture,you could use your current chip to a point. If you get a chip for E85,it will be programed for 100%.
I disagree with this statement.It will never be needed any day until you sell it.This is why I tell my wife I should not sell anything, it will always be needed some day, on some project.
Squid4life said:Are you doing anything special to monitor or tune? 23-24 is pretty impressive. IIRC my car at 18-19 psi and a horrible 60 went 12.7x- 12.8x 25 would be pretty fun...
I am running a scanmaster, boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge and a wideband. At the top of 3rd I am at 750 narrow band, and 11.1 on the wideband. I haven't done any (and I mean this) tuning yet. Still has the base timing and fuel settings from TT.
I would like to fatten it up a bit maybe 10.8 to 10.9 a/f but will work on that.
Ttype6 said:
I agree with this, I was going to try and mix it also. After reading and talking to people that have run it successful, I just went 100%.
I also spoke to Eric at TT and he said he doesn't make a chip to run a mix.
My goals were not or are not as big as some, so 23-24psi is good for me (for now). My motor is a 78k miles and shows very very little wear but blows smoke occasionally under boost.
I just tell people I'm fogging for skeeters lol..
Squid4life
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- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
Alright, so this is coming together... Ordered an E85 chip from Eric, and can pull my Innovative WB O2 off the race car pretty easily, will just have to figure out the wiring. I have a spare bung and plug, and am swapping my exhaust hopefully this weekend, so its only a few more bolts to drop the THDP and weld the bung in. I guess all thats left is to get the volt booster. Have a wanted ad for one, but may just order new. If really necessary, I have all the fittings, hose, gauge and cup to do a hood mount fuel pressure gauge. Is that smart to watch for the fuel pressure "wall" or is the WB O2 sufficient?
Kinda stoked now. Anxious to see how it all works out.
Kinda stoked now. Anxious to see how it all works out.
forcefed86
Member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2005
For the price of a volt booster you could get another fuel pump. An 044 bosch inline with the 340 intank feeding it. Or even another 255hp inline (these are around $100 shipped with AN fittings.) Crank your basee fuel pressure up to 60 or so. The second pump inline will provide all the pressure you need. Look online for the injector calculators and you can see exactly how much increasing the base pressures will extend the injectors. At 60psi a 60lb injector flows roughly 70lbs. Keep your total pressure (ie boost plus base FP) under 100psi and you'll be fine. WE usually have the second pump activated with a boost switch for street cars so it doesn't overrun the FPR on factory size return lines.
Also I'd try an e50 mix with the methanol inj. Local has run over 43lbs of boost on an e50 mix here in his 4 banger and went over 150mph. I've personally run 34psi through my 4 banger on e50 as well. Just keep the timing low around 18* or less at 30+ psi IMHO. There are also ethanol calculators out there that make mixing fuels much easier. When you consider the 91 or 93 octane your using to mix already has 10% ethanol in it it makes calculating a bit more difficult.
Good luck!
It's critical to watch fuel pressure.
You're not going to want to sell the car after all this, haha. Depending on your definition of "play" the results could be very positive. Two of my friends with un-opened motors, slightly larger turbos, and single walbro pumps switched to E85 a few years back an both ran mid-high 11's. One had 60's and the other 83's for injectors. Damn their cars were fun and reliable too! That's a big part of what convinced me to switch on my new build. Good luck and keep the updates coming!
Squid4life
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
Good info, thanks brother. Definitely more options to consider now... An inline pump would be a simple install fuel line wise, as I already have a -8 line and filter from the tank/sender through a fuel filter, to the hard line on the frame rail. But wiring... Not sure where to begin wiring a hobbs switch in, but sure I can find out how doing some searching.
Not sure we have E50 or anything other than E85 around here. E85 is all I have seen, but will do some further searching. Those are some pretty big achievements running that much boost!
Even more anxious now, just need to choose how to increase/maintain the fuel now...
Squid4life
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
Cool, thanks. Will fab a bracket to run the FP gauge on the hood.
Squid4life
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- Jul 5, 2004
Ha ha, yeah, I know what you mean. I probably should just leave well enough alone, clean the car up and sell it, but I figured I could have some fun with it while I am prepping it.
Oh, and selling this car will suck, I really love it, but some of the money from the sale is going to finish the new stage II for the twins car, so that is my motivation!
Squid4life
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- Jul 5, 2004
Is it just one level colder, or one level per X amount of boost over 15? IIRC, just one level, still gapped at .030 max, but may need it tighter. Correct me if I am wrong.
Again thank you to everyone on here who has offered ideas or suggestions, it is really helpful!
Squid4life
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
forcefed86 said:
One question about the in-tank feeding the in-line: if in-line is only activated via hobbs/boost switch, during low/no boost when it is not activated is it a restriction, or does it just feed right through? Shopping for an inline and hobbs activation setup it looks like, any suggestions where you got yours and had good luck?
Squid4life
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- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
Having a hard time deciding what to do about fueling... Keep in mind, I am keeping the 60's in there, running a cooler plug, monitoring with a hood mounted fuel pressure gauge, scanmaster, and Innovative WBO2. I have an old 340 in tank in now.
My decision is what else to do with regards to:
1. Run a volt booster and call it a day. $90 shipped (gbody parts) (Any issues running this with alky? I remember hearing Razor suggesting not to run it due to elect interference)
2. Swap out the intank fuel pump for a DW. $169 + shipping (ArizonaGN)
3. Leave the old pump in there, and like suggested above add an inline, which would have to be switched with an hobbes switch/harness. ~$100 for a pump, plus another ~$40+ for a harness and switch? Seems like the off-line pump would be a restriction when not engaged
Seems the most straightforward approach would be to swap out the intank. Would that be sufficient to push the 60’s to their end? If the 340 is pushing the 1:1 I need, is it even needed?
Any guidance would be appreciated.
Also, I have a spare fuel rail, with an AN fitting on the pass side. If I run the 60’s, and any of the above situations above (booster, inline, or intank) is there anything I should do/could do with the rail, return, feed?
If I were keeping the car, I would go balls to the wall with dual pumps or a huge single external, new lines, etc, etc. But, I am trying to do this on somewhat of a budget before I sell it...
My decision is what else to do with regards to:
1. Run a volt booster and call it a day. $90 shipped (gbody parts) (Any issues running this with alky? I remember hearing Razor suggesting not to run it due to elect interference)
2. Swap out the intank fuel pump for a DW. $169 + shipping (ArizonaGN)
3. Leave the old pump in there, and like suggested above add an inline, which would have to be switched with an hobbes switch/harness. ~$100 for a pump, plus another ~$40+ for a harness and switch? Seems like the off-line pump would be a restriction when not engaged
Seems the most straightforward approach would be to swap out the intank. Would that be sufficient to push the 60’s to their end? If the 340 is pushing the 1:1 I need, is it even needed?
Any guidance would be appreciated.
Also, I have a spare fuel rail, with an AN fitting on the pass side. If I run the 60’s, and any of the above situations above (booster, inline, or intank) is there anything I should do/could do with the rail, return, feed?
If I were keeping the car, I would go balls to the wall with dual pumps or a huge single external, new lines, etc, etc. But, I am trying to do this on somewhat of a budget before I sell it...
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