Bought a parts car 87 GN and can't get it to start?

1980malibuman

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Joined
Jul 16, 2007
I bought a 1987 GN for parts that had been sitting for awhile outside in the original owners backyard. It turns over well but doesn't fire, plugs are dry. Checked for spark and that's good, but no fuel seems to be coming. I pulled a plug, added a small bit of fuel and that cylinder fired right away. What is the right sequence of things to check to get fuel to the engine? I may use the engine in my '87 Turbo T that chewed the teeth of the metal replacement cam gear and now needs to be pulled, stripped and gone thru properly, but in the meantime it would be nice to use this motor. Thanks.
 
Check to make sure the electric in tank fuel pump is working. You should hear it kick on as soon as you turn the key.
 
Hi,
I work on vehicles that have been sitting awhile quite frequently. The first thing I would do is check fuel pressure. If you don't have a gauge, at least depress the test port schrader valve to see if any fuel is getting to the motor.As the man said,you should hear the pump whine for about 2 seconds when you turn the key on.There is a single wire pump test connector on the driver's side of the engine harness that will hotwire the pump when connected to power. if the pump is not running, try a hammer on the tank. If that doesn't work,it's time to change it.Being a parts car, you don't want to stick a bunch of effort into this one,but Chinese pumps are cheap. As much as I hate to recommend that crap, there is a place for everything.
If none of the above helps, keep us posted.
 
Car sitting for?? how long.. You power the pump, the crap and bad gas in the system is pumped into the injectors, and whamo, it's inj cleaning/replacement time!
As it is, the injectors could already be stuck shut....
 
The car has not been driven for a few years, although the owner told me that he had been starting it every year with great difficulty. I'm not hearing the fuel pump whine as mentioned.
 
Hi,
I work on vehicles that have been sitting awhile quite frequently. The first thing I would do is check fuel pressure. If you don't have a gauge, at least depress the test port schrader valve to see if any fuel is getting to the motor.As the man said,you should hear the pump whine for about 2 seconds when you turn the key on.There is a single wire pump test connector on the driver's side of the engine harness that will hotwire the pump when connected to power. if the pump is not running, try a hammer on the tank. If that doesn't work,it's time to change it.Being a parts car, you don't want to stick a bunch of effort into this one,but Chinese pumps are cheap. As much as I hate to recommend that crap, there is a place for everything.
If none of the above helps, keep us posted.

There is no fuel getting to the motor. Pulled a few plugs and they are dry.
 
test for power to the pump. maybe the relay/fuse is shot. if not then the pump would be suspected. i have a used oem pump that i took off when i put my walboro in, if you need it.
 
I bought a t-type that had been sitting for 8+ years and had the same problem with no fuel. Engine turned over fine just would not start and you could not hear the pump so I jumped the pump test connector behind the alternator and nothing so I came home and got the thank and pump from my other car and put it in the T-type and the thing started right up so drove home:biggrin:

I think you have the same problem with yours so you will probably need a pump and a tank depending on how long it sat. You should have seen and smelled the turpentine looking crap that came out of that old tank:eek:
 
the sending unit in mine when i bought it had literally disintigrated inside the tank. i couldnt imagine why the pump didnt work.
 
test for power to the pump. maybe the relay/fuse is shot. if not then the pump would be suspected. i have a used oem pump that i took off when i put my walboro in, if you need it.

Thanks I will have some time tomorrow to test the relay/fuse. Where is the relay located and which one is it if it's part of the relays along each fender? Which fuse is it? I looked and tested the fuses under the dash, but couldn't really see any that said fuel pump? I appreciate your offer and will let you know if I need your old oem fuel pump. Thanks, Barry
 
I bought a t-type that had been sitting for 8+ years and had the same problem with no fuel. Engine turned over fine just would not start and you could not hear the pump so I jumped the pump test connector behind the alternator and nothing so I came home and got the thank and pump from my other car and put it in the T-type and the thing started right up so drove home:biggrin:

I think you have the same problem with yours so you will probably need a pump and a tank depending on how long it sat. You should have seen and smelled the turpentine looking crap that came out of that old tank:eek:

You say that there is a pump test connector behind the alternator?
 
I bought a 1987 GN for parts that had been sitting for awhile outside in the original owners backyard. It turns over well but doesn't fire, plugs are dry. Checked for spark and that's good, but no fuel seems to be coming. I pulled a plug, added a small bit of fuel and that cylinder fired right away. What is the right sequence of things to check to get fuel to the engine? I may use the engine in my '87 Turbo T that chewed the teeth of the metal replacement cam gear and now needs to be pulled, stripped and gone thru properly, but in the meantime it would be nice to use this motor. Thanks.

i've tackled dozens of tr's that haven't run in years and even a decade or more---------it always helps to prime the fuel system------jump the little connector that is near the alternator (black connector with single grey wire not the green one with two wires) that isn't hooked to anything to the output connector of the alternator --------you should hear the pump start and hear gas rushing through the fuel rail---------if not you have to fix this first obviously---------- if it pumps and doesn't start quickly after that you need to make sure the injectors are actually opening and not stuck from rust/deposits-------unplug one and hook the injector contacts directly to the battery and listen for a small click when you touch the wire to 12v--------tapping them gently with the tip of a screwdriver can sometimes help---------number one reason for a car to not run if it hasn't fired up for a few years....................RC
 
i've tackled dozens of tr's that haven't run in years and even a decade or more---------it always helps to prime the fuel system------jump the little connector that is near the alternator (black connector with single grey wire not the green one with two wires) that isn't hooked to anything to the output connector of the alternator --------you should hear the pump start and hear gas rushing through the fuel rail---------if not you have to fix this first obviously---------- if it pumps and doesn't start quickly after that you need to make sure the injectors are actually opening and not stuck from rust/deposits-------unplug one and hook the injector contacts directly to the battery and listen for a small click when you touch the wire to 12v--------tapping them gently with the tip of a screwdriver can sometimes help---------number one reason for a car to not run if it hasn't fired up for a few years....................RC

Thanks RC, I will give that a try. Barry
 
i've tackled dozens of tr's that haven't run in years and even a decade or more---------it always helps to prime the fuel system------jump the little connector that is near the alternator (black connector with single grey wire not the green one with two wires) that isn't hooked to anything to the output connector of the alternator --------you should hear the pump start and hear gas rushing through the fuel rail---------if not you have to fix this first obviously---------- if it pumps and doesn't start quickly after that you need to make sure the injectors are actually opening and not stuck from rust/deposits-------unplug one and hook the injector contacts directly to the battery and listen for a small click when you touch the wire to 12v--------tapping them gently with the tip of a screwdriver can sometimes help---------number one reason for a car to not run if it hasn't fired up for a few years....................RC

OK RC I tried that suggestion. The Grey wire was easy to find and I removed the black plastic cover from the alternator and jumped the two, nadda, nothing, bupkus..... just an arc when I put the jumper wire on the alternator bolt that the main wire goes to.

You mention that if there was nothing then I would have to fix that first. Sorry, but where would one start?

Barry
 
The fuel pump relay is on the passenger side fender, next to the ESC.

Check for a blown fuse in the fuse block.

Then check to see if the grey wire where the fuel tank plugs into the harness is getting a 12 volt source when the key switch is in the RUN position.
 
The fuel pump relay is on the passenger side fender, next to the ESC.

Check for a blown fuse in the fuse block.

Then check to see if the grey wire where the fuel tank plugs into the harness is getting a 12 volt source when the key switch is in the RUN position.


OK what is the ESC? There are a few relays along the pass. side fender all together with a protecting top cover. Sorry to be asking but I have been an old school guy until these Turbo cars. Thanks.
 
OK what is the ESC?

:eek: Not to be mean but it's been around for at least 30 years or more. Think you better go hit up gnttype for a rundown. Or just send it my way, I could use another project:biggrin:

Its the flat box looking thing up on the fender. Can't remember which one. My car has been torn apart more than it has ran:rolleyes:
 
If you jumped the test wire to the back of the alternator and didn't hear the fuel pump run then the fuel pump is no good. You need to drop the tank to replace it. You need to start there. It would be wise to drain the old fuel out of it while you have the tank out.

Jim
 
OK what is the ESC? There are a few relays along the pass. side fender all together with a protecting top cover. Sorry to be asking but I have been an old school guy until these Turbo cars. Thanks.

Check out this site:

86-87 Turbo 3.8 Liter Engine Sensors

The ESC is #16, over the right wheel well. It's a flat plastic box with a bunch of wires off of it, on right inner fender close to blower box.

The fuel pump relay is next to it. (# 13)
 
If you jumped the test wire to the back of the alternator and didn't hear the fuel pump run then the fuel pump is no good. You need to drop the tank to replace it. You need to start there. It would be wise to drain the old fuel out of it while you have the tank out.

Jim

x2,this plug bypasses all the relays,oil sender,etc.if the pump doesn't energize after applying voltage here,check all wiring leading to fuel pump,if wiring checks out(check plug behind drivers tail lamp/bumper),and also check then fp ground behind the tail lamp (drivers) inside trunk....
sound like ther pump to me......as RC said too.
 
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