Breaking up at rpm

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After 4 years of troubleshooting a similar problem, I found it was a wiped cam lobe. Replaced it with a comp cams 206 and all issues resolved. And of course I now have a collection of good spare parts.
:confused:...this gremlin seems to have alot of faces....took me a while to get the courage to keep it pinned on a motor with only a few hundred miles on it. It is a soft rev limiter type of surge.
i have yet to start on the check list....hopefully its just grounds
 
Speaking of grounds, when I removed the PS head to replace the head gaskets ( for the second time ), I noticed that I had tightened down 1 set of grounds, and failed to tighten the second ground bolt. I have since moved all of the grounds to the back of the intake and added an additional ground strap from the intake to the firewall.
 
The surging or how I tried describing it to people "hitting a rev limiter" it almost sounded like that. like a fuel cutoff or something. Things I tried - (omg nightmare trying to pinpoint this problem)

First thing- checked fuel pressure, good.
Fuel pressure regulator- good. changed for testing. nothing.
Maf- good. changed for testing, nothing.
Fuel pump - hangar ended up being messed up internally, car would shut off randomly with no fuel pressure. ended up stock ground on the hangar couldn't keep up with the new DW fuel pump, so I took it out and put a racetronix 340 with a new hangar/sender and called it a day. didnt fix it.
Tried multiple coils, ignition modules, plugs and wires, gapped the plugs a few different ways. same stuff.
Injector harness (hell I was getting desperate) nothin.

So between this problem and having the trans destroy my thrust bearing I was pretty upset. Almost sold the car but stuck it out and just didnt beat on it, because it only happened at WOT!

The plugs were a give away but I didn't know any better. The tip was like a crusty white color....looked very similar to detonation, but I knew I was getting fuel and the readings on the scanmaster were telling me I was actually running a little on the rich side, WTF?

mind you, of course I didnt bother checking for oil in the up pipe or checking the turbo, that couldnt be it...its still making boost! so i thought....

Then recently I changed the valve springs. Same damn thing. really pissed after that. I readjusted the cam sensor. same thing. I went over EVERYTHING except taking out the injectors and flowing them (which I almost did)

then, a couple weeks after the valve spring change, thinking man I messed up my cam, its wiped (but no slivers on the magnetic plug) I saw the light, or smoke....lol
The car started to smoke after warming up a couple minutes. and it got progressively worse QUICKLY (weeks period) until the car was a fog MACHINE!! ok, theres a problem. checked turbo. destroyed. oil inside my uppipe and even going back towards the maf. everything was covered. oops!

Put a ta-49 on the car, car runs brand new. a week after I installed the new turbo there was still some smoke, nothing coming from turbo though. Pulled the intercooler, I must have drained (yes, tilted my intercooler upside down and drained) about a pint of oil out of it. Washed it thoroughly. No more smoke. :)



Hope this helps the OP, kind of a long story but that was my adventure for months.
 
I dont get any smoke... car runs clean.. I really think I am just at the max rpms this car
with stock cam will push.. 5100....

If you read my earlier post, I think the 4600 problem (or seems to be) solved with the replacement of the crank sensor.

A taller tire may help with the rpm issue at the end of 3rd..
 
cam sensor unplugged and took it for a rip ....no change
added ground from trans to firewall (for some reason it was on intake)....no change
checked passenger side grounds and are tight to back of intake
shifts good, runs good, no lean or rich conditions.
going to try backing the alky knob and then maybe redo the cam sensor alignment:confused:
 
I would recommend checking the ground wires and not just to see if their tightly bolted down but the actual wires to see if they haven't deteriorated over the 26 years they have been on there.

A couple of months ago. I was out early one Sunday morning just cruising around and the car ran perfect as usual. On the way back to the house i decided to lay into the throttle,then all hell broke loose it started jerking and bucking badly very rapidly about 4 times in a row at about 40 mph, glad i was wearing my seat belt it was like what i would describe as riding a wild horse in a rodeo. The problem was a bad ground wire.
 
After 4 years of troubleshooting a similar problem, I found it was a wiped cam lobe. Replaced it with a comp cams 206 and all issues resolved. And of course I now have a collection of good spare parts.
Sorry to bring up past threads but did your car tap at idle with a whipped cam?
 
Yes, and it still taps at idle with the new cam. I honestly believe its coming from the torque converter area under the car.
 
Yes, alot like that. Depending on where you stand, you cant always hear it. I dont believe its a problem with the bottom end, I believe its in the torque converter area. Seems to be a problem that several people on this forum have encountered. The car has decent oil pressure, does not smoke under acceleration, and does not seem to use oil. Only that slight leak from the rear seal. :mad:
 
Nice Cutlass. A fella at a local car show here a couple weeks ago had an 85 Cutlass Salon with 8k original miles. You could park that thing in a show room and sell it as new. It had the full gauge package and t-tops. They are nice cars.
 
FYI for everyone. The engine block is The main ground for the entire system. Adding ground straps from engine to body just gives body better ground. It does not help the engine in any way.


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Yea, I figured the ground at the front of the block was critical to the rest of the ground wires.
 
I dont get any smoke... car runs clean.. I really think I am just at the max rpms this car
with stock cam will push.. 5100....

If you read my earlier post, I think the 4600 problem (or seems to be) solved with the replacement of the crank sensor.

A taller tire may help with the rpm issue at the end of 3rd..

I have a stock cam and Kirbans valve springs. I have many DS datalogs of 1/4 mile passes at 20 to 25 psi boost. Often, the RPMs went well over 5100, sometimes up to 5600, with no "rev limiter" effect. The engine was still pulling. I wouldn't expect your engine with new, good valve springs to have a 5100 rpm limit. But every car is different...


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