brief engine cutout on throttle

[Fred Spruill]

To answer Bescurred's question, I don't know anyone with an extra MAF I could borrow. Most everyone I know either knows about the GN because of me, or they don't know what one is when I tell them I have one and they ask, "What's that?" I bought a re-manufactured MAF from a local parts store for 76.00. I figured if it wasn't the problem, I'd only be out 76.00. Turns out that was it. I was surprised it was that simple. I did look into the newer digital MAF's with translators from places like Kirban's and GN Northwest, but I didn't have 400+ dollars to spend. I plan on doing that in the future, but for now, I just wanted it to run right. I appreciate all the comments and help. There are a lot of topics with very knowledgeable people on this forum. I have lots to read to get up to speed on these cars.

 

[GNONYX]

I glad you got it running
Now you can periodically monitor the ScanMaster for engine inputs.
That is very surprising that you got a working re-manufactured MAF from a local parts store for 76.00, since majority of them are out of TR MAF calibration.
What auto store did you get the MAF from?

 

[Fred Spruill]

I got it from a local store called "Costless Auto Parts" in Vancouver, Washington. I haven't ever bought anything from them that I had a problem with. They did warranty it for 12 months. We will see. I did notice the one I took off was also a reman, but it looked really old and probably a different supplier. The harness plug was in a different spot.

 

[GNRick]

Update: I bought a scanmaster and got it installed tonight. At idle everything looked normal according to the documentation except for the O2 mv reading. It jumps all over the place between 180 and 800. I believe I have bad O2 sensors. I also tried tapping the MAF while idling and it did studder slightly. My next step will be to get O2 sensors and a MAF.

Would seem to me that if you tap a sensor and you get a response then the sensor is outputting a signal. If you get no response then the sensor is most likely dead. I've heard the tap test isn't too reliable anyway. I would return that MAF and get an LT-1/translator as it will be more reliable in the long run. Also, your MAF on the car might be original and your new one is the reman. Does your new one say AC on it? Should also say BW with part # 25007861.