hey everyone, thought i'd throw this out before i leave for the weekend. I get a "popping" feeling, it's like im losing power very breifly under acceleration, it happens at around 3000 in 3rd with boost, or without. I didn't floor it in 1st and 2nd. so it would shift before any of that popping could occur at 3000. I just changed the oil, no detonation detected from Scanmaster, fuel pressure doesn't drop, reading from my external gauge. oil pressure is fine. anyone have any ideas?
brief power loss, "Popping"
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striker_29
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2001
- Messages
- 2,002
Sounds like a coilpack or module to me, but I'm not the expert here. I would check there first and good luck.
striker_29
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2001
- Messages
- 2,002
Get some Autolite 23's and gap them at a tight .035 and you should be good. You need to check the coil pak and module though dude, either one could definately be your problem. You say you got a new coilpak 6 mos ago, I got a new fuel pump 6 mos ago and its crap. You didnt say you got a new module, man you need to investigate that. You should also check those wires as mentioned. It would be great if you have access to a Caspers tester, then you would know for sure. That or swap with known good parts, but it sounds ignition related to me. I would not run any fuel cleaners through it. Good luck
i drove around all day today, trying to burn up the fuel. i may syphon it tommorow, i added some STP fuel cleaner, the popping is worse, i think it may be the fuel pump. i played with the fuel pressure a bit, trying higher then lower,
FUE002 ADJ. FUEL REGULATOR (BILLET ALUM.)
with no luck there. i did some research and found the pump is from esp,
FUE022 ESP IN – TANK FUEL PUMP (50 GPH @ 51 PSI)
matched with
FUE013 BLUE TOP INJECTORS (36#/HR) W/CHIP
the capacity of the fuel pump seems pretty low, since i idle at around 35 psi at the moment, and i can't WOT anymore without popping and knock,
im thinking i need a bigger one,
FUE023
ESP SUPER PUMP (IN-TANK) (60 GPH @ 70PSI)
$199.00
should i get this? or go walbro.
FUE002 ADJ. FUEL REGULATOR (BILLET ALUM.)
with no luck there. i did some research and found the pump is from esp,
FUE022 ESP IN – TANK FUEL PUMP (50 GPH @ 51 PSI)
matched with
FUE013 BLUE TOP INJECTORS (36#/HR) W/CHIP
the capacity of the fuel pump seems pretty low, since i idle at around 35 psi at the moment, and i can't WOT anymore without popping and knock,
im thinking i need a bigger one,
FUE023
ESP SUPER PUMP (IN-TANK) (60 GPH @ 70PSI)
$199.00
should i get this? or go walbro.
Whitettype86
Young William
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2002
- Messages
- 465
Follow what striker_29 said. It sounds like its your Spark plugs.
What kind of plugs do u have now? And What are they gap at?
U already said u have a new coil pack. What about plug wires?
Try the plugs first there the cheapest to go and go from there.
What kind of plugs do u have now? And What are they gap at?
U already said u have a new coil pack. What about plug wires?
Try the plugs first there the cheapest to go and go from there.
turbov6joe
Signal 1 J-12
- Joined
- May 22, 2002
- Messages
- 2,220
New quality plug wires
New NGK UR5 plugs at a tight .32 to .35 (your preference)
Verify both coilpack and module are good (hot)
Verify FP at WOT
Check FP strainer and/or filter
Check valve spring pressure
Verify that MAF hose isn't crushing (if applicable)
Blown headgasket(s)???
Pray to the LC2 gods for guidence
New NGK UR5 plugs at a tight .32 to .35 (your preference)
Verify both coilpack and module are good (hot)
Verify FP at WOT
Check FP strainer and/or filter
Check valve spring pressure
Verify that MAF hose isn't crushing (if applicable)
Blown headgasket(s)???
Pray to the LC2 gods for guidence
Praying: Complete
Spark Plugs: Autolite 23's and gapped at .035
How can i test the coilpack and module?
- I've been driving more than a few hours on the faulty ignition system, i've heard rumors of how the coilpack will go bad after driving in these conditions, is this true?
- when i replace the coilpack, is there something better i can upgrade to? same goes for module.
im selling my guitar today, and trying to get my old job back
-i'll get those plug wires today, what do you recommend for wires?
Spark Plugs: Autolite 23's and gapped at .035
How can i test the coilpack and module?
- I've been driving more than a few hours on the faulty ignition system, i've heard rumors of how the coilpack will go bad after driving in these conditions, is this true?
- when i replace the coilpack, is there something better i can upgrade to? same goes for module.
im selling my guitar today, and trying to get my old job back
-i'll get those plug wires today, what do you recommend for wires?
Ignition Upgrade
I upgraded the Ignition module and coils to the Type II style when I had similar problems to yours. Also, replaced the wires and plugs. Although the TypeII ignition components are a little more common these days (See them on late 90's GM cars) my problem still persists to this day. Even ran a tank of 100 octane fuel, and while this seemed to reduce the poping condition at higher RPM's (And allowed me to drive through it...) It still occures.
I would recommend just replacing the stock unit if you get to that point. I noticed ZERO improvement on the typeII upgrade. Spend the money you get for your guitar on something else... Like MSD wires! (My next planned upgrade)
FYI, my car is at 150,000's on a completely stock type fuel system. The pump is a stock replacement as is the non-adjustable regulator. I am running the factory original injectors. They have never been removed from the car! My problem, based on the diags and parts I have been replacing, are more than likely fuel related. Scanmaster doesn't really indicate this, but a cyl. that fails to fire due to a fuel injector failing to pulse would happen so quickly, I doubt it would catch this. My O2 readings are all over the place, but the average seems to be in the 850 range.
But, first things first. Ensure your ignition is all good, as I see you are working towards. After that, maybe start looking into fuel delivery like a poor performing injector. (The rest of your fuel system is way more sophisticated than what I have!) My problem was a gradual increase in popping frequency that came about the same time as 91 octane fuel became the norm in my area. In my 100 octane experiment, all WOT knock was eliminated but the popping continues...
Good Luck!
I upgraded the Ignition module and coils to the Type II style when I had similar problems to yours. Also, replaced the wires and plugs. Although the TypeII ignition components are a little more common these days (See them on late 90's GM cars) my problem still persists to this day. Even ran a tank of 100 octane fuel, and while this seemed to reduce the poping condition at higher RPM's (And allowed me to drive through it...) It still occures.
I would recommend just replacing the stock unit if you get to that point. I noticed ZERO improvement on the typeII upgrade. Spend the money you get for your guitar on something else... Like MSD wires! (My next planned upgrade)
FYI, my car is at 150,000's on a completely stock type fuel system. The pump is a stock replacement as is the non-adjustable regulator. I am running the factory original injectors. They have never been removed from the car! My problem, based on the diags and parts I have been replacing, are more than likely fuel related. Scanmaster doesn't really indicate this, but a cyl. that fails to fire due to a fuel injector failing to pulse would happen so quickly, I doubt it would catch this. My O2 readings are all over the place, but the average seems to be in the 850 range.
But, first things first. Ensure your ignition is all good, as I see you are working towards. After that, maybe start looking into fuel delivery like a poor performing injector. (The rest of your fuel system is way more sophisticated than what I have!) My problem was a gradual increase in popping frequency that came about the same time as 91 octane fuel became the norm in my area. In my 100 octane experiment, all WOT knock was eliminated but the popping continues...
Good Luck!
theres a good post on spark plug wires, that i just read so im about to look around town for some, and if i don't see anything i like, i'll get the MSD's.
Red Regal T is selling coilpacks and modules for 60 bucks, im goin with those, and hopefully since i replaced the plugs and will soon replace the wires, everything will be hunky dorey.
Red Regal T is selling coilpacks and modules for 60 bucks, im goin with those, and hopefully since i replaced the plugs and will soon replace the wires, everything will be hunky dorey.
I am a large idiot. While i was taking off the coil pack to clean the connections, to try to fix the problem, i noticed a nut was missing. A very important nut at that. It happened to secure the coil pack down, it must have been disconecting itself after the motor vibrated enough, that would explain why it was missing only durring increased throttle and rpms. all i needed was a little common sense!!!
