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Burnout question

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cwelk87gn

XCELR8S
Joined
Oct 28, 2003
Messages
1,034
OK first let me say that I know how to do a nice brake torque burnout in a big V8, left foot on the brake right foot on the gas and let her rip. As a new GN owner, I tried this the other day and as I pressed the accelerator towards the floor the rear end of the car went up about 5 inches the turbo whistled and the car acted like it was about to incinerate the rear tires but...no. I let off the gas the turbo sneezed out the air filter and there I sat. What is the secret to a nice burnout??? The car will break the tires loose when I launch it at a redlight so I know it will do it.:confused:
 
I would do exactally what you did, but after building alittle boost I'd ease up on the brake alittle...Not let off completely just enough to let the tires start to spin and then ease the pedal back down...My car was that way when I bought it, but now it just rips em off...I think cuz I need to adjust the rear brakes.
 
I can't do a burnout without one.
Car hops and the brakes grab and it ain't pretty. :(

Nice smoke show for the crowd with a Line Lock. :D
 
I find that if you give the car about 1/4 throttle, and very slowly begin to give it gas, and increase boost, that I can get a blazing burnout at about 5 psi. If you try to give it too much gas, it dumps to much fuel in, runs rich, and does not allow the tubo to spool as quickly. I was having the same problems as you until a friend of mine showed me this technique.
 
This is true, if you get into the gas to much it goes into PE (power enrichment) which ads fuel, and rich mix=slow spool
 
The easy line lock install with a powermaster locates it on the plastic innerfenderwell area usually on that platic hump that sticks up so the screws can't go through and hit the tire.

A short new line is needed from the small (front brake) line fitting at the master cylinder to the line lock.

The existing thin line that came out of the master cylinder goes into the other side of the line lock.

I use the Hurst Roll Control and the installation kit.

Bleed the brakes when done.

My mechanic uses a short 3/16" line and cuts the end off it. He then cuts the end off the original stock line and takes the metric fitting off it. Puts that on the cut end of the short line and reflares the line to thread into the master cylinder.

Existing line gets the american thread 3/16" fitting and NPT adapter into the line lock.

He has the good flare tool and it doesn't take him long.

Maybe $55 tops for the install, about 1 hour.

I mount the solenoid and do all the wiring myself and help him bleed the brakes.

Thass about it.

There are metric to american adapters for plug and play installations available at NAPA should you not want to or be able to reflare the lines.

A search might help find those part numbers.
 
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