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C-Clip Eliminators

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I you don't cut and weld, I have a nice set that I picked up from gbodyparts and I have them in the for sell section right now. Let me know which way you decide to go. What ever way you decide good luck.


How much for the C Clip Eliminators if you still have them?
 
The Ford ends,33 spline carrier,33spline axles,girdle and labor adds up to a lot of money. After all this expense,you still have a differential that no one offers a stronger ring and pinion for. Something to think about.
 
The Ford ends,33 spline carrier,33spline axles,girdle and labor adds up to a lot of money. After all this expense,you still have a differential that no one offers a stronger ring and pinion for. Something to think about.

How strong do I need the rear to be to run mid to high 10s , I hear mix options on this subject? Some say the stock rear is fine if running an occasional mid to high 10 second blast down the 1320. While others say ford 9 inch. No doubt the 9inch ford is much stronger and can take all the abuse I can throw at it if prepared correctly but is it over kill for a high 10 second 3500 lbs car with driver?
 
Some say the stock rear is fine if running an occasional mid to high 10 second blast down the 1320.
I would use aftermarket axles and girdle also. They're a minimal investment. I just don't like the idea of putting too much money in the factory housing because of the unavailability of a strong ring and pinion. Put axles and a girdle in and see what breaks.
It's the launch that breaks things. If you leave softly and run a mid 10 then there's less chance of breaking something.
 
A 9" is overkill but nice if you have the $$$. I ran high 10's with moser axles and a girdle.
 
If you leave softly and run a mid 10 then there's less chance of breaking something.

I'm only running 124 so I need a hard launch to get into the high 10s. If I was running 130 then I could leave soft and still run a 10 second pass.
 
you might need a little more injector than the 50s can give with a chip
whats your duty cycle at now
at 124 id guess you need low 90s for 10s (10.90)
at 3700lb you should be at 46 lbhr per injector (92%)

on the subject of elims
they are required in the 10s per NHRA rules but they wont get you there , the axles have to be capable and for 10s (10.99 or faster) they also want aftermarket axles
if you are on stock axles they can break (have broken) regardless of if you install an eliminator and they could still allow the wheel to go rolling past you , even with the elim they can break internally at the splines and destroy the center section
if you 1.5 60' on stock axles they are twisting up, i know a few that have done low 1.5s over and over (lucky)
 
you might need a little more injector than the 50s can give with a chip
whats your duty cycle at now
at 124 id guess you need low 90s for 10s (10.90)
at 3700lb you should be at 46 lbhr per injector (92%)

on the subject of elims
they are required in the 10s per NHRA rules but they wont get you there , the axles have to be capable and for 10s (10.99 or faster) they also want aftermarket axles
if you are on stock axles they can break (have broken) regardless of if you install an eliminator and they could still allow the wheel to go rolling past you , even with the elim they can break internally at the splines and destroy the center section
if you 1.5 60' on stock axles they are twisting up, i know a few that have done low 1.5s over and over (lucky)


I run 50 lb injectors but my race weight is 3560 lbs I'm at 122.1 with pump gas and Alky right now but after I go back to 3:42s from the 3:73s I have in the rear right now I should pick up a little mph, so assuming I'm right then I'll need to launch hard to run a high 10 second pass. I've been looking into after market axles too for $230.00 not bad. I just don't want to get stuck pouring loads of $$$ in the stock 8.5 and blow it up anyway. I'm told the rear gears are weak links along with the Carrier and axles.
 
you might need a little more injector than the 50s can give with a chip
whats your duty cycle at now
at 124 id guess you need low 90s for 10s (10.90)
at 3700lb you should be at 46 lbhr per injector (92%)






I'm running a TT chip with pump and Alky and I'm having to lean it down a tad, so I'm not pushing the injectors to their limits yet.
 
you sig says stock weight, 3560 isnt stock weight

cottons pumpkin has an 8.5 with 33s , spool elims and a girdle cover , only going 8.50 165 ,
im not too worried about my 8.5 , many low 10s only recently went to the girdle cover because 9s are in sight
the stock axles are weak, the housing is weak and tubes can bend , but the carnage you see on ring and pinion and carriers doesnt doesnt tell the whole truth , a worn rear with higher than spec backlash has a high potential for breakage.
 
you sig says stock weight, 3560 isnt stock weight

cottons pumpkin has an 8.5 with 33s , spool elims and a girdle cover , only going 8.50 165 ,
im not too worried about my 8.5 , many low 10s only recently went to the girdle cover because 9s are in sight
the stock axles are weak, the housing is weak and tubes can bend , but the carnage you see on ring and pinion and carriers doesnt doesnt tell the whole truth , a worn rear with higher than spec backlash has a high potential for breakage.



I updated my SIG thanks for that, I'm running 3:73s now and will go to 28 inch tall DRs soon. That right there should gain me a little MPH I hope, but puts more load strain on the rear end with stock axles.
 
I updated my SIG thanks for that, I'm running 3:73s now and will go to 28 inch tall DRs soon. That right there should gain me a little MPH I hope, but puts more load strain on the rear end with stock axles.


I'm debating on weather I should go back to 3:42s which will add even more strain on the rear I imagine.
 
going 3.42 from 3.73 the axles and ring gear will see same rpm at same mph (and same load) because tire height hasnt changed
342 puts more strain on the driveshaft , trans, motor but at lower rpm
less rpm will need more boost for same Hp
 
I updated my SIG thanks for that, I'm running 3:73s now and will go to 28 inch tall DRs soon. That right there should gain me a little MPH I hope, but puts more load strain on the rear end with stock axles.

your sig is confusing
you say you are going to 28 drag radials ?? ..what do you have now
what are you trapping at now , are you using OD

i ran 25.8gtas to 128mph using od shifting 3-4 at 117-120mph (old art car 9"nl, 3.42 gears)
 
your sig is confusing
you say you are going to 28 drag radials ?? ..what do you have now
what are you trapping at now , are you using OD

i ran 25.8gtas to 128mph using od shifting 3-4 at 117-120mph (old art car 9"nl, 3.42 gears)


I have old McCrearys 27 inch tall tires and yes I'm using 4th gear.
 
going 3.42 from 3.73 the axles and ring gear will see same rpm at same mph (and same load) because tire height hasnt changed
342 puts more strain on the driveshaft , trans, motor but at lower rpm
less rpm will need more boost for same Hp


I have a new set of 3:42s but I'm thinking I may try taller tires first to see if I can achieve my goals just the same, I'm not really interested in going much quicker then high tens because right now the engine is 100% stock and I know changing the heads and cam ect will cost way more and would cost more in the long run do to other things I'll have to upgrade in the process to go faster. I'm just doing what I can afford at the moment but not going all out on this car.
 
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