Cam choices!

[trading t/a]

Current setup!

.030 over J&E's, PTE cam 218+, Ported large valve TTA heads, port matched intake, Arp studded bottom end, arp rod cap bolts, CPT 65BB with an .82 housing, ATR 3in. dp with external gate, pat's 12" D5 l/u (haven't checked the stall), MSD50's, Accufab billet afpr, Extender and trans +.

I think the cam is too large for a .030 over 231 some may disagree, also there is a not so healthy rap coming from the lifter valley and if I were to pull the intake to see if the lifters or lifter is hung up, I would prolly change the cam. It was the quietest running 3.8 I've ever heard before this whole high BLM thing happened

(see thread) http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=141784

Since then it has been noiser than a 2 year old in the kitchen playing with pots and pans! So what cam to choose, I'm interested in a flat or roller make some suggestions.......

210-214 roller someone mentioned before has peaked my interest.

 

[Razor]

If $$$ is not an issue, then a 212/212 roller would be my choice.

 

[trading t/a]

More so than the 210-214 from crane? The intake side wouldn't have a problem. Quoted 720 fw hp with the turbo. It's got the cfm, but the TTA heads have a good exhaust runner even better when ported! What to do, what to do, what to do?!

 

[Razor]

Bill at Champion told me to stick to the straight up patterns like 212/212, 214/214, 218/218, etc...

Go too big on the duration you'll lose bottom end. Thats what all the guys I called told me.

In thoery yes.. in reality no. Our motors are not cam sensitive like an NA motor.

I'd ditch that converter and get a real one.. spend the money on that

My 130 dollar cam and cheapo lifters are getting the job done.

 

[trading t/a]

This rinky dink converter believe it or not is damn fine for a 12". It spools this turbo without a prob. It's the cam that's noisier than ****. Looking to do this once and for all with a roller.

 

[Razor]

Originally posted by trading t/a
This rinky dink converter believe it or not is damn fine for a 12".

I've been in those shoes... For years preaching the same lines..

There is a huge difference once you go to the smaller converter..

Did I say HUGE

Your problem was the way the cam was broke in. Thats if its a cam issue.

 

[trading t/a]

It's just strange that it was super quiet during the breakin period, then the blm's went nuts and now it's noisy as hell. Could I have wiped a lobe(dam Buick oiling system from bottom to the top crap!). Whatrever it is It'll be taken care of whether it be roller, flat or solid roller.

Everything else seems fine, I wonder if it's the stock GM lifters that are in there!

 

[Razor]

Pull the valve covers and observe how much each rocker opens and closes the valve. All the intakes will be the same, all the exhuasts will be the same. A crude way is get a fine ruler. Spin the motor without spark plugs. If a lobe is wiped you'll know.

I had a noise in the motor, ended up being a broken chain tensioner.

 

[postal]

The PTE 210/210 hydraulic roller and GN-1 heads seams to be a real good combo. I have no idea how good a TTA head and 210 roller combo would be. Cylinder heads have a huge effect on the power range a cam will make its power at.

A small cam good head combo will make both more midrange and high rpm power than a big cam crappy head combo.

Jason

 

[trading t/a]

That's why I'm thinking go with the smaller cam as opposed to the large one in there now. 210-210 sounds nice what lsa is it?206-206 may also be an option, just may be a little small to make big power with. Also don't wanna rev the thing to the moon with a studded bottom end and arp rod bolts as the only protection. protection.

 

[postal]

OMFG!!! I'm going to freekin snap!!!!

I was about three quarters of the way through a HUGE reply to this post when my pc crapped out!! I was typing for an hour and ten minutes when this happened!!(I'm a really slow typer) It was a really good post too!! O'well nobody probably reads my long posts anyway.... Well if anybody is interested in a real nice explantion of the how/what/why of a camshaft, sticking mainly to duration and the opening and closing points of the valves let me know. If one person asks for it and promises to read it then I'll type it back up again. It would take less than 5 minutes to read.

p.s: Its not safe to get a postal worker this stressed out at christmas time!

Jason

 

[GMC-YA]

I'll read it postal. Trading, my exact combo is ported TTA heads and a ATR 210/214 roller. I wish I could give you some good info but I just havent got the car sorted out yet to know. I'm waiting on a fuel pump right now, maybe at the first of the year I'll have an update.

 

[trading t/a]

The cam in here now is an old stage grind that has had good use in the past, but as with most I'd rather have an undercammed motor than an over. I was kicking around going with either the 204-214 flat or the 212 sigle patern, but have it cryoed first.

Has anyone looked into the series II? It uses a complete roller valvetrain, the lifter bore size/area cant be much different(except the spider tray if it has one), other than not having a retainer plate for the nose and a way to secure each lifter in it's bore can these be used? I've done a lot of searching and can't seem to get any good detail picks of the internals of the series II. Anyone know of the sights?

Pete