Cam lifters and push rods

[Jan Larsson]

While having my engine apart I'm planning to change cam, lifters and push rods.

- First what lifters would be the best to get ... GM OEM's seems pretty pricey but you can get a set at a decent price from www.fullthrottlespeed.com and the likes but are these good quality products?

- Pushrods, what should I get the OEM GM #5234485 seems to have changed and can't find a new number or is there a good aftermarket I can use instead?

- The cam I have had so far is from Precision Turbo and Engine cam grind number BV6-252-H9 with the following data:

Intake Exhaust
Duration @ 0.050 .206 .206
Lobe lift .283 .283
Lobe separation 109
Seat duration at .006 252 252
Gross valve lift .438 .438
Degree intake lobe to 107 C/L ATDC
Seat timing int BTDC -4 ABDC 30
Seat timing exh BTDC 34 ATDC -8

I had smooth idle and seemed to run pretty good with this one so something equvilant and reliable you can recommend.

I’m farily stock, stock turbo, 3” THDP, 42.5 injectors, RJC power plate, chip tuned for my current setup.


Another concern is with today's oils no longer having phosphorus and zinc to protect cams from going flat do you all run some addative or similar to protect the cam/lifters? Other option is of course a roller cam setup but then we are talking big $$$$ so wont go that route.

 

[Quiky One]

While having my engine apart I'm planning to change cam, lifters and push rods.

- First what lifters would be the best to get ... GM OEM's seems pretty pricey but you can get a set at a decent price from www.fullthrottlespeed.com and the likes but are these good quality products?

- Pushrods, what should I get the OEM GM #5234485 seems to have changed and can't find a new number or is there a good aftermarket I can use instead?

- The cam I have had so far is from Precision Turbo and Engine cam grind number BV6-252-H9 with the following data:

Intake Exhaust
Duration @ 0.050 .206 .206
Lobe lift .283 .283
Lobe separation 109
Seat duration at .006 252 252
Gross valve lift .438 .438
Degree intake lobe to 107 C/L ATDC
Seat timing int BTDC -4 ABDC 30
Seat timing exh BTDC 34 ATDC -8

I had smooth idle and seemed to run pretty good with this one so something equvilant and reliable you can recommend.

I’m farily stock, stock turbo, 3” THDP, 42.5 injectors, RJC power plate, chip tuned for my current setup.


Another concern is with today's oils no longer having phosphorus and zinc to protect cams from going flat do you all run some addative or similar to protect the cam/lifters? Other option is of course a roller cam setup but then we are talking big $$$$ so wont go that route.

Use Shell Rotella 10W30 if you want the additives. It's usually not on the shelves but they do make 10w-30.

 

[Razor]

With the amount of money being spent Jan.. I would do a roller. A small one like a 206/206 and use the Comp 853-12 lifters. You'll need new springs, the beehives will be fine and the machine shop when they do the valve job can handle their install.

Look at your rockers for abnormal wear, if any.. buy a set of rollers from Harland Sharp.

Kinda crazy, but I wouldnt replace OEM pushrods with a flat tappet cam install unless their tips had issues. Just like replacing rockers.

If your flat tappet cam goes flat, you'll trash your brand new engine.

 

[Jan Larsson]

Julio,

So you are saying a roller cam and roller lifters but keep everything else (unless obnormal wear), then only replace the springs? And nothing else?

I thought a roller setup would involve more parts to be replaced and more $$$ spent?

 

[Razor]

This is the list of parts needed.

Roller cam
Roller lifters
springs/retainers/keepers
Pushrods

Better.. add rockers for adjustability. Rockers can be done at a latter time. Springs dont have to be beehives, but that is the new thing to do. If you use existing hardware for springs, then springs like 941's are ~100

Cam is ~280-300
Lifters ~300-320
Rockers ~300-360
Pushrods ~80
Springs/retainers/keepers ~250

What gets expensive is doing a billet roller.

The hyd roller uses a double roller chain. Like a Progear or Rollmaster.

Chain is ~100.00

But you would still would of needed to do the chain anyways. Just like you would buy new springs, pushrods, etc.

Technically, you spend 400 more doing the roller. Cam + GM lifters=~250.00

 

[Jan Larsson]

Julio, appreciate the shopping list.

Comp Cam has a complete kit, see http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Comp...tegoryZ33614QQihZ011QQitemZ320039201358QQrdZ1

Would that work if I got that one and then use stock rockers etc?

 

[Jan Larsson]

Julio, also I'm having the machine shop replace the cam bearings with new Clevite stock size ones I take it that will still work with a roller cam?

The machine shop is also balancing the complete rotating assembly and for doing this they needed the timing chain crank gear so I got them a brand new stock GM one ... if I then use a double roller per your suggestions would they need to re balance everything with the new crank gear?

 

[Razor]

Jan,
The kit is for a Buick. Only issue is the pushrods will be different buying it that way. If you use the 852 lifters and harland rockers, buy 7.800 5/16th pushrods. If you use the 885 lifters(racing) then its a 7.900 length. I dont know what the Buick pushrods measure.

Also I forgot to mention the adjustable bearing for the snout of the cam. The kits will come with it. else its like ~50 for it.

I dont think you'll have any issues with the double roller cam gear vs the stock one.

Search for cam bearings. Most use the durabond. I have a set of bearings made for me by Leo.. but that is a whole other story. Clevite should be ok.

I use King for main and rod bearings, since theyre softer and imbed better

 

[83ttypecooled]

rebuild items

Hi,
Basically, I guess all the FM stock stuff is not too good? I am trying to put my engine back into as stock a condition as possible, with the exception of pistons, cam, and ARP bolts and studs, and am using a rebuild kit from Summit. Do Clevite bearings make that much difference in an engine expected to produce under 450 rwhp?

 

[Jan Larsson]

Hi,
Basically, I guess all the FM stock stuff is not too good? I am trying to put my engine back into as stock a condition as possible, with the exception of pistons, cam, and ARP bolts and studs, and am using a rebuild kit from Summit. Do Clevite bearings make that much difference in an engine expected to produce under 450 rwhp?

Which rebuild kit are you using from Summit? ALso what cam etc are you going for (roller setup?).

I got the ARP bolts / studs everywhere along wiht forged pistons, currently at machine shop so need to get the roller cam setup for when I get it back to assemble all the stuff.

 

[89ICBM]

Howdy Jan!

Give Dan Steso a call at 219-956-3653. He'll grind you a roller cam that will fit yer needs and send you the cam and roller lifters in one package. Just talk to him and tell him what yer looking for.

 

[Jan Larsson]

Guys, Mike Licht recommends a 206/210 cam for my application. You think this would work for a nice street setup? Any pros / cons ?