Only have about 600 miles on my rebuild: 109 block .30 over, Speed Pro pistons, stock rods w/ ARP bolts, Stock crank, fresh rebuilt stock heads with Manley valves and kirban's valve springs. All machine work was done at respectable machine shop. The motor has a kind of I would say small rattle only for a split second if you snap the throttle lightly. Definately sounds like its coming from up top. Can't hear it at idle. Lifters were from Postons, cam is flat tappet Comp from Full Throttle, stock pushrods, stock rockers. The only other thing i can think of is the stock rockers have like 140k on them and now I have higher pressure valve springs and it's putting too much load on the wore out things. When i put a long screwdriver to the cam sensor cap, it seems pretty loud there. Car has great oil pressure(25 hot idle), great vacuum(17-18in hg in park) and drives and pulls great. When I put the screwdriver anywhere else I can't hear anything out of the ordinary. Is there any easy way to check that the cam is ok? The car is my daily driver. Ordered some zddp, but is it too late? Was gonna use it on my oil change here in the next day or so.
Cam sensor noise or cam wiping in progress
- Thread starter 92GNZ28
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
Just a Six??
OK! Who Farted??
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2003
- Messages
- 3,574
If you dont measure for what you need then how do you know they are the right length? If you have ever cleaned up the surfaces on heads or block then they could be off but who knows except you?
When you broke in the flat tappet cam did you do it correctly?
pull the valve covers to look for loose bolts, broken rocker pins or broken rocker shaft. you can also turn the motor over with the valve covers off to see if they are all moving equally.
as bison suggested, pull the pan and filter and check for metal.
did you put the motor together or the machine shop? if the shop did i'd assume they checked the pushrod length.
from recent cam wiping experience (i had 2 bad lobes), you can definately here it by listening through the cam sensor.
as bison suggested, pull the pan and filter and check for metal.
did you put the motor together or the machine shop? if the shop did i'd assume they checked the pushrod length.
from recent cam wiping experience (i had 2 bad lobes), you can definately here it by listening through the cam sensor.
The crap will stay in the pan since the drain us raised and about a pint of oil is left in the bottom of the pan. It would be fine grindings and no chunks. If your pulling the intake then you should always pull the pan to be sure no coolant leaked in there.
It will clear in most cars just by taking hte bolts out. Sometimes if the mounts are shot it will sit a little low and the trans mount may need to be unbolted so the pan will clear the flywheel
there likely won't be any chunks if the cam is wiping.
as for the pan, pull the mount bolts, jack up the motor, and put the bolts back in, allowing the mounts to rest on top of the bolts. at least that was what i had to do to get my out. the extra 1"-1.5" gives you the clearance without having to mess with the trans.
as for the pan, pull the mount bolts, jack up the motor, and put the bolts back in, allowing the mounts to rest on top of the bolts. at least that was what i had to do to get my out. the extra 1"-1.5" gives you the clearance without having to mess with the trans.
I cleaned out the motor and replaced the rod bearing. There was gold in the bottom of the pan but the messed up rod bearing wasn't all the way through to the copper. I checked the mains and they were all good. The noise is still there. Could it be a cam bearing? Not sure what noise I would hear with that.
If the upper half of the bearing is worn more and curled inward so it doesnt snap into the rod then the cause was most likely detonation. Id do a complete teardown to analyze the rest of the engine and hot tank the block and remove all the hidden maetal particles from the engine block. The turbo will have seen metal unless it has a remote filtration setup and it will embed int he thrust and cause thrust failure on the turbo
The bearing was in normal shape(it was still snapped in to the rod side). The problem is the noise is still there. That's what I was trying to say in my previous post, there was copper colored pieces in the oil pan, but the rod bearing wasn't scored into the copper part, so I'm wondering if another bearing is really bad, like a cam bearing, cuz I checked the mains when I had the pan off also, they looked fine. Noise sounds up top. I can really hear a steady tick thru the cam sensor cap.
BEATAV8
The Engine Whisperer
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2002
- Messages
- 5,641
bison you never cease to amaze me. You are a damn sharp engine guy, and that's coming from a full time engine engineer with more than 10 yrs in the industry. I can only imagine the extent of the things you must've seen in order to generate this kind of info on a consistent basis.
BEATAV8
The Engine Whisperer
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2002
- Messages
- 5,641
Is the cam sensor gear showing any abnormaly heavy wear?
Ive seen many hammered rod bearings. There are many who are a lot sharper than me. Thanks for the compliment. In his instance where the rod bearing is hammered at the #2 id suspect an injector or harness problem related to that cylinder. That is unless someone was sloppy with an assembly prior to him finding the bad bearing.
Similar threads
