Cam sensor noise or cam wiping in progress

92GNZ28

New Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2003
Only have about 600 miles on my rebuild: 109 block .30 over, Speed Pro pistons, stock rods w/ ARP bolts, Stock crank, fresh rebuilt stock heads with Manley valves and kirban's valve springs. All machine work was done at respectable machine shop. The motor has a kind of I would say small rattle only for a split second if you snap the throttle lightly. Definately sounds like its coming from up top. Can't hear it at idle. Lifters were from Postons, cam is flat tappet Comp from Full Throttle, stock pushrods, stock rockers. The only other thing i can think of is the stock rockers have like 140k on them and now I have higher pressure valve springs and it's putting too much load on the wore out things. When i put a long screwdriver to the cam sensor cap, it seems pretty loud there. Car has great oil pressure(25 hot idle), great vacuum(17-18in hg in park) and drives and pulls great. When I put the screwdriver anywhere else I can't hear anything out of the ordinary. Is there any easy way to check that the cam is ok? The car is my daily driver. Ordered some zddp, but is it too late? Was gonna use it on my oil change here in the next day or so.
 
The cam I got is the X2 from Fullthrottlespeed.com. I'm assuming the stock length pushrods were correct for this application also right?
 
The cam I got is the X2 from Fullthrottlespeed.com. I'm assuming the stock length pushrods were correct for this application also right?

If you dont measure for what you need then how do you know they are the right length? If you have ever cleaned up the surfaces on heads or block then they could be off but who knows except you?
When you broke in the flat tappet cam did you do it correctly?
 
Pull the pan and look for iron grindings from the cam. The pushrod length always needs to be checked on every engine.
 
pull the valve covers to look for loose bolts, broken rocker pins or broken rocker shaft. you can also turn the motor over with the valve covers off to see if they are all moving equally.

as bison suggested, pull the pan and filter and check for metal.

did you put the motor together or the machine shop? if the shop did i'd assume they checked the pushrod length.

from recent cam wiping experience (i had 2 bad lobes), you can definately here it by listening through the cam sensor.
 
I'm gonna pull the intake and look at the bottom of the litters and the cam itself. Did an oil change today and didn't see any big chunks of anything in the oil or filter.
 
I'm gonna pull the intake and look at the bottom of the litters and the cam itself. Did an oil change today and didn't see any big chunks of anything in the oil or filter.

The crap will stay in the pan since the drain us raised and about a pint of oil is left in the bottom of the pan. It would be fine grindings and no chunks. If your pulling the intake then you should always pull the pan to be sure no coolant leaked in there.
 
how bad is it to pull the pan with the motor still in the car? Have to undo the motor mounts and jack up the motor, or will it clear just enough?
 
how bad is it to pull the pan with the motor still in the car? Have to undo the motor mounts and jack up the motor, or will it clear just enough?
It will clear in most cars just by taking hte bolts out. Sometimes if the mounts are shot it will sit a little low and the trans mount may need to be unbolted so the pan will clear the flywheel
 
there likely won't be any chunks if the cam is wiping.

as for the pan, pull the mount bolts, jack up the motor, and put the bolts back in, allowing the mounts to rest on top of the bolts. at least that was what i had to do to get my out. the extra 1"-1.5" gives you the clearance without having to mess with the trans.
 
Pulled the pan down and found gold in the pan, and found this on #2 rod bearing:
 

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I cleaned out the motor and replaced the rod bearing. There was gold in the bottom of the pan but the messed up rod bearing wasn't all the way through to the copper. I checked the mains and they were all good. The noise is still there. Could it be a cam bearing? Not sure what noise I would hear with that.
 
Pulled the pan down and found gold in the pan, and found this on #2 rod bearing:

If the upper half of the bearing is worn more and curled inward so it doesnt snap into the rod then the cause was most likely detonation. Id do a complete teardown to analyze the rest of the engine and hot tank the block and remove all the hidden maetal particles from the engine block. The turbo will have seen metal unless it has a remote filtration setup and it will embed int he thrust and cause thrust failure on the turbo
 
The bearing was in normal shape(it was still snapped in to the rod side). The problem is the noise is still there. That's what I was trying to say in my previous post, there was copper colored pieces in the oil pan, but the rod bearing wasn't scored into the copper part, so I'm wondering if another bearing is really bad, like a cam bearing, cuz I checked the mains when I had the pan off also, they looked fine. Noise sounds up top. I can really hear a steady tick thru the cam sensor cap.
 
If the upper half of the bearing is worn more and curled inward so it doesnt snap into the rod then the cause was most likely detonation. Id do a complete teardown to analyze the rest of the engine and hot tank the block and remove all the hidden maetal particles from the engine block. The turbo will have seen metal unless it has a remote filtration setup and it will embed int he thrust and cause thrust failure on the turbo

bison you never cease to amaze me. You are a damn sharp engine guy, and that's coming from a full time engine engineer with more than 10 yrs in the industry. I can only imagine the extent of the things you must've seen in order to generate this kind of info on a consistent basis.
 
bison you never cease to amaze me. You are a damn sharp engine guy, and that's coming from a full time engine engineer with more than 10 yrs in the industry. I can only imagine the extent of the things you must've seen in order to generate this kind of info on a consistent basis.

Ive seen many hammered rod bearings. There are many who are a lot sharper than me. Thanks for the compliment. In his instance where the rod bearing is hammered at the #2 id suspect an injector or harness problem related to that cylinder. That is unless someone was sloppy with an assembly prior to him finding the bad bearing.
 
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