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Cam Sensor Rebuild Kit

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Nice video the only other thing I would add is it’s probably a good idea to lube the shaft when you are doing the final assembly. I have like 4-5 cam sensor I need to rebuild thanks for the reminder bud .
 
Good point. I actually did add some lube in the second one I rebuilt. I will add that the clearance between the shaft and the bearings is small and not a lot of lube is needed.


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very nice video thx
were did you get the rebuild kit I have seen the rjc one but I don't think they have the bushings
 
IMOP you showed all the easy parts. I think the hardest part was bending the tab down and getting it flush to the shaft so it doesn't rub the bushing

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grass doctor said:
very nice video thx
were did you get the rebuild kit I have seen the rjc one but I don't think they have the bushings
Click to expand...

I got it from Jason Bertram off of Facebook.


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Boost231 said:
IMOP you showed all the easy parts. I think the hardest part was bending the tab down and getting it flush to the shaft so it doesn't rub the bushing

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Click to expand...

Fair criticism. I put it in a vice and pushed the tab through. Then it was just a matter of fitment. Once I put it all together (the shaft and reluctor ring with tab to view fit) and there wasn’t any interference I called it good. It wasn’t really an issue. I did have to clean the shaft better to get it to spin smooth on the bearings.


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Nice job on this helpful video. What lube would work well? Axle/bearing Grease? Engine Assembly lube? Motor Oil? Lithium grease...just throwing stuff out. Should be compatible with motor oil just in case, but since cam sensors are not "well oiled", to me it seems something like high temp wheel bearing grease (sticky) might offer good long term lubrication if it stays in there, engine assembly lube but same issue there.
 
If I recall correctly, I think I used a very light application of Moly Grease.


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I have a few questions: When shimming the end play to .015 with the correct shims, should they go between the end of the aluminum housing and the wavy washer? Should the .015 end play be measured with not compress the wavy washer, or measure when the wavy washer is fully compressed?
Also, from the video, it looks like the shaft can be remover from the housing with OUT the bottom roll pin being hammered out. Remove the top screw and the shaft will come out the bottom?? It that correct?
Thanks ken
 
ClassicCars said:
I have a few questions: When shimming the end play to .015 with the correct shims, should they go between the end of the aluminum housing and the wavy washer? Should the .015 end play be measured with not compress the wavy washer, or measure when the wavy washer is fully compressed?
Also, from the video, it looks like the shaft can be remover from the housing with OUT the bottom roll pin being hammered out. Remove the top screw and the shaft will come out the bottom?? It that correct?
Thanks ken
Click to expand...
Where are you getting .015 from? Shim stack is.... base of alum body, flat shim, wave washer then gear.

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ClassicCars said:
I have a few questions: When shimming the end play to .015 with the correct shims, should they go between the end of the aluminum housing and the wavy washer? Should the .015 end play be measured with not compress the wavy washer, or measure when the wavy washer is fully compressed?
Also, from the video, it looks like the shaft can be remover from the housing with OUT the bottom roll pin being hammered out. Remove the top screw and the shaft will come out the bottom?? It that correct?
Thanks ken
Click to expand...
You can remove shaft by taking the screw out that holds down reluctor cup. With that said DO NOT USE FACTORY ROLL PIN!

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