cam sensor

[stevek]

when removing the front cover on motor in order to replace timing chain does the cam sensor have to be removed to pull off cover , all bolts are loose but it seems to hang up on something, and if so is there any steps in reinstalling it

 

[Jerryl]

Deleted.

 

[earlbrown]

You can pull the cover with the ca sensor in place.. There's no reason to leave it in place though, it has to be removed to index it when you go to set the cam sensor timing.

Did you remove the short 'hidden' bolt just above the oil pump on the PS side? And//or are your locating dowels rusted or bent?

 

[stevek]

all bolts removed the top dowel was rusted up , i did get it removed ,will have to replace cover , it has 3 cracks under water pump and some cracks around crank housing were seal goes

 

[stevek]

here is some pic of cracks,

 

[earlbrown]

Holy crap! Did that happen from the removal or was that the reason for pulling it?

I'm looking at one of my NOS covers here and it looks like the long horizontal crack is at the base of the waterpump area... was this a result of freeze damage?


I am amazed how silver and clean the inside of your cover is.... ESP considering you still have a rope seal in place. Is this the first time it's ever been pulled off?

 

[stevek]

the reason i was removing it was i blew head gasket and since i never had it off befor and i had most of it off any way and i was going to change timing chain also. the damage i guess was done just by wear an tear and years, i'm glad i took it off now

 

[earlbrown]

No kidding. Was your oil milky from water contamination?

 

[stevek]

no oil looks good head gasket blew out into intake

 

[gnpoweredrail]

are you sure they are cracks??? looks like casting flash to me

 

[GNONYX]

Agreed with gnpoweredrail, when I replaced my timing chain I too have the same cracks, but it was casting flash and not crack.
You could also do a crack test which usually is a 3 parts: 1-to clean and degreaser, 2-red dye, 3-developer to show if any crack is present.
I could not find the product I have used many years, but maybe you can look into this Grainger site and purchase from them or individual cans from EBay for cheaper price.
http://www.grainger.com/category/dy...welding-chemicals/welding/ecatalog/N-nad?bc=y

 

[gnpoweredrail]

almost every cover I've ever seen has them. I usually polish them off if they are really big like the one in the center so it cant flake off and get into the oil.

 

[stevek]

you guys are right , i took a magnifying glass and looked closer and they are just lines from casting flashings so this is better news. My next question is when looking at timing chain still on engine i only see one hole on top sprocket and none on smaller sprocket, do i just turn motor till the hole in top sprocket is on very bottom, then when installing new c hain line up to hole with bottom sprocket and into key way, i looked on site on how to's but none of the pages come up

 

[gnpoweredrail]

The new timing set will have marks on both gears.

 

[stevek]

thanks ,if i go with rollmaster stock chain it is ok to use chain tensioner over again if it looka ok

 

[earlbrown]

Keep turning your crank clockwise until the keyway points right up the DS cylinders... then you'll notice the dots on your timing gears lined up (look on your top gear in that picture at 10:00 and you can see the mark.

I'd go ahead and pop for a factory timing set. They last for 150,000 miles or 20+ years, which ever comes first. Plus, they use the dampner.

 

[gnpoweredrail]

or use the TA performance stock link style which is stronger than stock and you can use the tensioner