Changing head gaskets what else would you recommend?

[white-t-type]

Well it looks like I will be changing head gaskets soon, what else would you suggest I do while I have the motor down that far? I plan to change the valve springs, timing chain, and will try to port and polish the heads myself. I would like to swap out the cam however I really do not want to fork out $800-$900 for a cam kit. Am I missing anything? Would it make sense to block the EGR at this time?

 

[street6]

did you pull the engine? I was looking to do similar work (maybe head, gaskets, and cam upgrade) however was told that the engine needs to be pulled to change heads. this was news to me....

 

[white-t-type]

I pulled the heads while the motor was in the car. My problem is not head gaskets so I will be pulling the short block soon.

 

[jasjamz]

Why did you think you needed head gaskets? I would not put a flat tappet cam in. It's not worth the risk if you have to remove the engine now anyway. If it goes flat...motor needs to be pulled disasembled, cleaned and put back together again...with a roller. Unless you'd like to chance it again.

 

[white-t-type]

Why did you think you needed head gaskets? I would not put a flat tappet cam in. It's not worth the risk if you have to remove the engine now anyway. If it goes flat...motor needs to be pulled disasembled, cleaned and put back together again...with a roller. Unless you'd like to chance it again.

It started out as me having to turn the fuel pressure regulator up to 90psi to keep the car running. Did a compression test and found the two front cylinders were at 60 and 70psi on the compression gauge. The other 4 ranged from 135-150. I did not have any way to do a leak down test so I pulled the valcovers and rockers and all pushrods were straight. Pulled the intake and found that none of the valves were stuck open. Pulled the lifters and they were in great shape. So I pulled the heads hoping it was the gaskets but kinda knowing it was not going to be the answer and I was right. Head gaskets looked perfect, I poured water into the ports in the heads and found that there was not any leaks around the valves. I have yet to pull the short block from my car but plan to do so soon. The tops of the pistons look to be in good shape so I am assuming I have a problem with the rings. I really do not know what else it could be. If you have any ideas I would love to hear them before I pull the motor apart. I figure while everything is apart I will do a few upgrades, maybe port the heads, install ARP hardware etc, I really do not want to ad $800 for a hydraulic roller at this time.

 

[jasjamz]

At this point, you may as well pull it and freshen it all up. If you can, keep the lifters in the bores they came out of upon re-assembly. I would suggest Rotella oil by Shell for the added zinc to help fight the cam going flat. Keep us posted on your results.

 

[white-t-type]

That is the plan, would you suggest a new flat tappet cam then or just keep the stocker, or wait and buy a hydraulic roller?

 

[jasjamz]

I'd save up the cash for the roller. You will thank yourself down the road.You can keep it on the small side... 206/206. good into the 10's with the supporting mods. How fast do you really want the car to go? What's its main use?

 

[white-t-type]

I'd save up the cash for the roller. You will thank yourself down the road.You can keep it on the small side... 206/206. good into the 10's with the supporting mods. How fast do you really want the car to go? What's its main use?

Mostly street duty, high 10's is the goal. Will go to the track maybe once per month. Suspension, axles, c-clips, and driveshaft will be next on the list. I have a th400 with a manual valve body and transbrake along with a 3200 stall to go in with the fresh motor.

 

[87buickracer]

Mostly street duty, high 10's is the goal. Will go to the track maybe once per month. Suspension, axles, c-clips, and driveshaft will be next on the list. I have a th400 with a manual valve body and transbrake along with a 3200 stall to go in with the fresh motor.

If you are looking for a quick fix for now and build the motor later,you can leave the short block in the car,drop the oil pan and pull the two pistons out with low compression,inspect rings and measure bore.change the rings on the two cylinders and hone cylinders a little and install the two pistons.Since you have the top end off and want to go a little faster you can up-grade to several different flat tappets that will help you run hi 10's.here are a few.
1)comp cams 212/212
2)reed 210/205
3)speed pro or edlebrock 204/214
4)208/208
and a few other grinds from venders.I would suggest not to get too big a cam that will require more spring pressure.I would stay with a cam that would require spring pressure between 80 to 100lb springs and always use zinc addictive help prevent wiping a lobe.On my last street build I broke the cam in with the stock springs and after several oil changes switched to 100lb springs..I have never wiped a lobe so far and my next street motor will probably get the 204/214 which has seen hi 10's or the old school 210/205 which has seen low 10's with the right combo and even the 208 has seen hi 9's.Just my 2 cents..

 

[jasjamz]

Mostly street duty, high 10's is the goal. Will go to the track maybe once per month. Suspension, axles, c-clips, and driveshaft will be next on the list. I have a th400 with a manual valve body and transbrake along with a 3200 stall to go in with the fresh motor.

You will find examples of cars on here that went in the tens with the stock long block, stock short block. and mild biulds. It mainly will boils down to your tuning skill. A little port work will help the cam will too.The stock suspension stuff can take a beating so you may not need to spend too much in those components just yet.

 

[turbodave231]

Unless your cam and lifters are wiped out, leave them alone. Mark the lifters with their position when you disassemble and put them back exactly where they came from.

My car ran a 10.83 with a stock cammed engine, The Tinman recently ran a 10.68 with a stock cammed engine. For street use, the stock cam is just fine. Find your problem and Save your money.

Dave

 

[jasjamz]

Unless your cam and lifters are wiped out, leave them alone. Mark the lifters with their position when you disassemble and put them back exactly where they came from.

My car ran a 10.83 with a stock cammed engine, The Tinman recently ran a 10.68 with a stock cammed engine. For street use, the stock cam is just fine. Find your problem and Save your money.

Dave

See told ya... How much boost and timing did it take you to do that? What did the combo consist of parts wise?

 

[notacarlo]

I would put in ARP head studs while you are at it. This will make the heads a lot easier to remove in the car. Pull the studs, breach the heads, remove the push rods and slide'em out. They have better clamping than the old torque to yield bolts that GM used. Cheap great upgrade.

You can get them anywhere, I bought mine from TA Performance. got stainless valves too.

 

[87buickracer]

Unless your cam and lifters are wiped out, leave them alone. Mark the lifters with their position when you disassemble and put them back exactly where they came from.

My car ran a 10.83 with a stock cammed engine, The Tinman recently ran a 10.68 with a stock cammed engine. For street use, the stock cam is just fine. Find your problem and Save your money.

Dave

Running that fast on a stock cam you will need ported heads,intake,bigger intercooler+turbo+injectors/alky,torque converter,beefed up tranny,slicks,traction bars,roll cage,and maybe some fiberglass parts to help you get there..So if you are going to spend this kind of money you would be better off with roller cam,because once you run hi 10's you will want to go faster(lol):biggrin:
There are people running hi 10's on stock blocks,but check out all of their modifications to accomplish hi 10's..to include fine tuning...