usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
- Messages
- 7,697
Chasing KR, boost, octane issues
- Thread starter OhioC5
- Start date
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yes numbers are ok.
not a good way to get help if your going to be an a$$ about someones comment.
more the reason to move the damn scanner. anyway just because other people are are running higher boost than you on pump gas is because each car runs different. why do you insist on leaving the boost at that number. leave the timing at default. 20/18 i assume. and lower boost to 14 and keep the fuel at 20% and try adding 3 to 5 psi on your regulator. you did add a duttneck which will make you have a denser charge and run leaner. now add this 90 degree heat to the engine compartment and this only makes things worse. the duttneck will make the same power at 14 as a stock intercooler would at 16. hope his helpsLook how nice this car is, it would be a shame to hit a tree.
I vote BOTHIt makes a stock turbo car fun:biggrin:
Yessss! 110 octane works wonders.
54Rich
Member
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- Apr 10, 2007
- Messages
- 687
Well, I'm no expert, but I do have a car that runs nice
I'd do something to drop that temp. My car on the hotest of days only hits 195 with the ATS of 110 and I thought that was high. Your TP at .46 is in spec, but I perfer .42. 12.8 Volts, wonder what it reads when your getting on it
Mine's in the 13.8 range. IAC, mines around 21 or so.I have a K&N in the fender bring in fresh air, but you car seems too hot. I'd adjust the TPS and IAC and make sure your getting the correct voltage.
I didn't see, but you FP needs checked.
Quip6, didn't think I was being an a$$, I said thank you to both guys that suggested I move it. I really do appreciate the advice and believe me when I say looking at a scanner is easy compared to how I spend 8 hours a day in a car. It wasn't BS when I said I lost everything, wallet, cards etc. My bank card just came today and I bought an adjustable WG actuator. Its hard to buy stuff without credit/bank cards and if I didn't have a passport things would have sucked worse. Will turn dow the boost as soon as it gets here. I bought a manual boost controller thinking I could use it to turn down boost. Still really green in the whole turbo game. If I came across too harsh I apologize, was just trying to stay on topic.
Well, I'm no expert, but I do have a car that runs nice
I'd do something to drop that temp. My car on the hotest of days only hits 195 with the ATS of 110 and I thought that was high. Your TP at .46 is in spec, but I perfer .42. 12.8 Volts, wonder what it reads when your getting on it
I have a K&N in the fender bring in fresh air, but you car seems too hot. I'd adjust the TPS and IAC and make sure your getting the correct voltage.
I didn't see, but you FP needs checked.
Thanks, my FP is 44 line off and climbs at 1:1. It was really hot that day, but I agree it does seem hot. My filter is probably sucking in hot air where its located in the engine bay. Looked at the volts today with the air off and saw 13.2 I'll adjust the IAC and TPS and see what happens.
IAC is only a factor at idle. also in reference to the O2 sensor if your CC numbers are increasing from 20-40 on each cycle then the O2 is fine. Check your MAF numbers, at WOT you should see 255. I'm guessing that the MAF is crapping out. Get a modern MAF and translator, your car will run much better and at WOT it will climb as it should and add the correct amount of fuel. Your probably getting a slow, or not high enough climb which is telling the computer your not pushing as much air as you actually are so not enough fuel is getting added and you have lean condition.
Did you order the stock or the HD actuator? stock with it adjusted with 1/8 inch pull to get it on the pin will give you about 12lbs boost, HD will give you 17lbs.
Did you order the stock or the HD actuator? stock with it adjusted with 1/8 inch pull to get it on the pin will give you about 12lbs boost, HD will give you 17lbs.
Brady,
Yes, your the second to suggest my maf is failing. It's on my list of things to purchase. I never see 255 on my scanmaster. The highest numbers are 218-225, I tried taking it off and cleaning it. I also just purchased Razors ALKY kit and the actuator is an HD. I hoping with the alky an hd actuactor will be the one I need.
Yes, your the second to suggest my maf is failing. It's on my list of things to purchase. I never see 255 on my scanmaster. The highest numbers are 218-225, I tried taking it off and cleaning it. I also just purchased Razors ALKY kit and the actuator is an HD. I hoping with the alky an hd actuactor will be the one I need.
If those are the higest numbers you are seeing the MAF is not good and that is the cause of your lean issues. DONT do anything else till you get a MAF/tran installed.
The HD is the one but until you get the MAF issues corrected fuelling will always be wrong.
The HD is the one but until you get the MAF issues corrected fuelling will always be wrong.
you may install but do not run the alky kit till you get the car running perfect on pump gas and knock free. you will only be bandaiding a problem
Why did you have to rain on my parade, lol. I was thinking life would be perfect after alky kit. I'm trying to work on a maf deal now.
Humor me, is there any chance if the air filter is dirty or where its placed in the engine bay could contribute to low AF numbers? Can you tell me what RPM at WOT I should see 255? Is it at full boost? Whats the criteria for max AF number on scanmaster?
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
- Messages
- 7,697
Modding a car that doesn't run for sh!t will only end in disappointment. I'm sure I'm not the only one that has experience with this
The thing runs great, it just keeps showing KR. Kind of wondering if it could be false. How the heck can I take it out one time and see no KR, take it out later and get KR. I'm going to do the MAF and start the tuning all over to see what happens.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
- Messages
- 16,824
Listen to Brady and Quip. Your MAF is going and adding alky will not fix that. Get the standard translator and new MAF. Install the Alky kit and TT alky chip. You can do any adjustments in the chip so the more advanced Translator is not really needed. Once you are seeing 255 Air Flow you can start to turn up the boost. Do a complete test of your charging/battery system too. If you are running short on the ignition and go to boost bad things happen.
Here is AF info from Vortexbuicks:
AF = Mass Air Sensor Flow (MAF)
As stated at the beginning of this section, our cars come from the factory with a mass air form of fuel injection control which uses a flow meter, that we refer to as a mass air sensor, to measure the mass of the air flowing into the engine. Note that it measures mass and not volume. Hot air is less dense than cold air and thereby has less air molecules in a given volume than does the cold. Given that it is the number of air molecules in the cylinder that must be matched with fuel, it is important to know the mass.
The original factory mass air sensor is/was capable of measuring mass air flow from 3 to 150 grams per second. This is displayed on the scan tool over a range of some 3 to 255. 255 is numerical limit of the 8 bit processor in the ECM. The later LT-1/LS-1 mafs that can be used with Bob Bailey's Translator system can potentially flow a higher mass of air than the original units if the engine can use it.
This parameter is a big help in troubleshooting. One of the first suspects when the car is not idling/running correctly is often the MAF. This is particularly true if the original style MAF is being used. To verify operation, turn the key on, but do not start the engine. The AF on the scan tool will normally read 3. Then, start the engine. With a normal idle speed, it will normally read 4-6, and, may read 7 if the programmed idle is around 800/850 rpm as the faster idle will require more air thru the sensor. If the MAF is reading in this range, one can be pretty sure that it is not the problem that is causing the car to not run properly...particularly at idle.
Now, the MAF can also lose calibration at higher mass flows. As stated prior, 255 is the maximum number that can be displayed. Cars running boosts close to 15 psi or so may report less than 255..say 245, or thereabouts. As the boost gets closer to ~17 psi, the car will normally begin to max the reading out and one would expect to see 255, or very close. Design of the intake tract, engine size/combination, etc. will affect the actual number.
If one has been seeing 255 and then it starts reading 235, one may start having problems as one transitions to wide open throttle as the ECM believes the car is consuming less air and therefore provides less fuel.
If one has a logging scan tool such as PowerLogger, then the graph of the MAF output should be smooth with no spikes, or, sudden dips on a wide open throttle run.
The later style MAF/Translator systems are generally far more robust and don't cause many problems as long as the wiring is solid on the install.
Here is AF info from Vortexbuicks:
AF = Mass Air Sensor Flow (MAF)
As stated at the beginning of this section, our cars come from the factory with a mass air form of fuel injection control which uses a flow meter, that we refer to as a mass air sensor, to measure the mass of the air flowing into the engine. Note that it measures mass and not volume. Hot air is less dense than cold air and thereby has less air molecules in a given volume than does the cold. Given that it is the number of air molecules in the cylinder that must be matched with fuel, it is important to know the mass.
The original factory mass air sensor is/was capable of measuring mass air flow from 3 to 150 grams per second. This is displayed on the scan tool over a range of some 3 to 255. 255 is numerical limit of the 8 bit processor in the ECM. The later LT-1/LS-1 mafs that can be used with Bob Bailey's Translator system can potentially flow a higher mass of air than the original units if the engine can use it.
This parameter is a big help in troubleshooting. One of the first suspects when the car is not idling/running correctly is often the MAF. This is particularly true if the original style MAF is being used. To verify operation, turn the key on, but do not start the engine. The AF on the scan tool will normally read 3. Then, start the engine. With a normal idle speed, it will normally read 4-6, and, may read 7 if the programmed idle is around 800/850 rpm as the faster idle will require more air thru the sensor. If the MAF is reading in this range, one can be pretty sure that it is not the problem that is causing the car to not run properly...particularly at idle.
Now, the MAF can also lose calibration at higher mass flows. As stated prior, 255 is the maximum number that can be displayed. Cars running boosts close to 15 psi or so may report less than 255..say 245, or thereabouts. As the boost gets closer to ~17 psi, the car will normally begin to max the reading out and one would expect to see 255, or very close. Design of the intake tract, engine size/combination, etc. will affect the actual number.
If one has been seeing 255 and then it starts reading 235, one may start having problems as one transitions to wide open throttle as the ECM believes the car is consuming less air and therefore provides less fuel.
If one has a logging scan tool such as PowerLogger, then the graph of the MAF output should be smooth with no spikes, or, sudden dips on a wide open throttle run.
The later style MAF/Translator systems are generally far more robust and don't cause many problems as long as the wiring is solid on the install.
Turbo RX-6
Rotary Motors Suck
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2001
- Messages
- 1,670
I finally sprung for the MAFTPRO and wideband 02. After a little bit of reading and getting used to it's the best move I have ever made.
http://www.maftpro.com/
http://www.maftpro.com/
dont mean to rain on your parade just trying to help! if your boost is not at 17 your maf numbers may be ok! especially when you are running low low timing. where is your timing currently at? you have real knock because when you are adding octane it is going away! also when you said somedays it is there and some days its not its because weather has a part in that! take your car out and remove the filter and see if your maf numbers increase or the car responds better. if so then you may have a flow issue. also set your fuel pressure at 45 and see if that helps.
Yes, good point, no knock when I run higher octane. I'm not sure where the timing is from TT, I know I've pulled 4.2* in every gear. I double checked FP the other day and bumped it to 44 line off, I'll try 45.
Turbo RX-6, is that the unit that adjust AFR for you on the fly? Is it MAFLESS?
Turbo RX-6, is that the unit that adjust AFR for you on the fly? Is it MAFLESS?
Turbo RX-6
Rotary Motors Suck
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2001
- Messages
- 1,670
Yes, yes it is ...I use it with a 3 bar MAP (stock TTA), GM air temp sensor w/extension harness, high boost solenoid, and extender chip. I have tunes for pump gas, race gas, and a 50/50 mix of E85 and pump gas. I set this up myself just by doing some forum reading...This might not be right for you,
but it made my life a lot easier!:smile:
