I tried a little test on my maf, turned the key on and set scanmaster to AF it read "3" had my wife watch the scanmaster while I tapped on the MAF to see if there was a change in the number. No change, I have a feeling my maf is going to end up being ok, just a feeling.
Chasing KR, boost, octane issues
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The "tap test" on the maf is done with engine running. Start engine and while its idling... tap the MAF.. if it hiccups.. its going bad.
If you put higher octane and the knock went away.. your just riding the fine line on the sand drawn and tip toeing over it.. if you tweak out the car on pump fuel.. and lets say one day you get 17 PSI without knock.. another day it will knock at 17 PSI. Simple change in gasoline, change is weather, change in engine running temp, etc. If you want knock free operation, drop it a few lbs under the edge. In this case 14-15 PSI.
Everything in life when tweaked to the extreme has the same consequence. Like bench pressing.. your max is 315 lbs.. doesnt mean you can bench press 315 everyday.. in this case you bench 275 everyday no probs.
The point is like this, your car lets say makes maximum power at 11.5:1 airfuel and 18 degree's timing at 17 psi boost. Now you go to 18 PSi.. it knocks.. so you throw more fuel.. now your air fuel is at 10.5:1 and your at 18 PSI. Running the engine fatter didnt increase HP. All it did was move your problem.
Becuase you can run 22 psi boost on pump gas doesnt mean you make more power than you could of at 17 psi on the same fuel. As the 22 psi will run 12-14 degree's of timing vs 20 degree's at 17 PSI.
Power on a Buick is boost, airfuel, and timing. Your limiter is octane. You can dance around it all you want and get no where. Only way to make the engine faster on limited octane is to increase airflow through it. Example aluminum heads and roller cam. Most with stockers dont want to tear into the motors so the next move race gas or alky kit... once you put a kit on the car and its at 22+ PSI.. life looks differently. Just ask anyone with one that uses it
If you put higher octane and the knock went away.. your just riding the fine line on the sand drawn and tip toeing over it.. if you tweak out the car on pump fuel.. and lets say one day you get 17 PSI without knock.. another day it will knock at 17 PSI. Simple change in gasoline, change is weather, change in engine running temp, etc. If you want knock free operation, drop it a few lbs under the edge. In this case 14-15 PSI.
Everything in life when tweaked to the extreme has the same consequence. Like bench pressing.. your max is 315 lbs.. doesnt mean you can bench press 315 everyday.. in this case you bench 275 everyday no probs.
The point is like this, your car lets say makes maximum power at 11.5:1 airfuel and 18 degree's timing at 17 psi boost. Now you go to 18 PSi.. it knocks.. so you throw more fuel.. now your air fuel is at 10.5:1 and your at 18 PSI. Running the engine fatter didnt increase HP. All it did was move your problem.
Becuase you can run 22 psi boost on pump gas doesnt mean you make more power than you could of at 17 psi on the same fuel. As the 22 psi will run 12-14 degree's of timing vs 20 degree's at 17 PSI.
Power on a Buick is boost, airfuel, and timing. Your limiter is octane. You can dance around it all you want and get no where. Only way to make the engine faster on limited octane is to increase airflow through it. Example aluminum heads and roller cam. Most with stockers dont want to tear into the motors so the next move race gas or alky kit... once you put a kit on the car and its at 22+ PSI.. life looks differently. Just ask anyone with one that uses it
Your MAF is going bad. Why are you resistant to convert to a MAF/trans set-up. If you spent the money on a alky kit and new actuator you clearly have no problem spending money on the car and this change is way less than the 2 things I mentioned???. A modern maf with trans will make the car run better in all situations, and give you a better platform to start your tuning with. As you can see from the other posts, theres more to it than just cranking up the boost and hopeing for the best. IGNORE the boost number and tune for performance. Do you want a 12.5 second car that runs 20 LBS of boost or a 12 second car that runs 17. Results are what matters, not a boost number.
Brady, I'm only resisting this week. I bought a factory maf, want to see if that is my problem before I do the upgrade and have to wonder if there is something wrong with the new set up. Just dodn't want another set of varibles. I have no problem spending money on my cars, as a matter of fact that is my problem. Maybe I need to start at square 1, and find out how much boost it makes from the factory. I didn't just go cranking uup the boost, all I did was put a chip and injectors in it. I guess I didn't think sticking a chip in it would make it walk a fine line. The chip was ordered for 92 octane too.
At this point to turn down the boost I either need to buy another adjustable actuator or have the chip reburned, is this correct?
At this point to turn down the boost I either need to buy another adjustable actuator or have the chip reburned, is this correct?
The "new" factory MAF wont work, they are reman units and not calibrated for these cars....I know, I tried it also. The modern maf/trans is plug and play, no variables. You set the dip switches and turn 2 knobs to correct setting and go. You can tune with it later if wanted/needed.
If your turbo set-up is truly still "factory" you should only be seeing 12 Lbs of boost. Do you have a boost gauge? not the digital one on the dash. If your seeing over that for boost something is up, a cracked hose, soleniod going bad, somethings not right.
If you have already installed the new HD actuator, adjust the arm so it slips over the arm with no tension and that should have you in the 14-15 ish boost range.
If your turbo set-up is truly still "factory" you should only be seeing 12 Lbs of boost. Do you have a boost gauge? not the digital one on the dash. If your seeing over that for boost something is up, a cracked hose, soleniod going bad, somethings not right.
If you have already installed the new HD actuator, adjust the arm so it slips over the arm with no tension and that should have you in the 14-15 ish boost range.
Ok, now I'm getting somewhere, the maf I bought is a known good maf, not new reman. Member Phoff ran it on his car the past year with out any issues. He even told me if I have a problem with it in the next year he'll send me another one. Nice guy. I have an actual boost gauge mounted under the radio area. The HD actuator has not arrived yet so I didn't crank up boost anywhere. I'll start checking for cracked hoses and possible leaks.
Funny, I thought the boost was turned up in the chip. See how much I know, also looked on the chip this morning and it isn't marked except for "TT"
I was looking at the Gen II maf set up, I would like the ability to use it as an AFR gauge with a WB set up. Looks like a pretty nice piece
Funny, I thought the boost was turned up in the chip. See how much I know, also looked on the chip this morning and it isn't marked except for "TT"
I was looking at the Gen II maf set up, I would like the ability to use it as an AFR gauge with a WB set up. Looks like a pretty nice piece
go to the vortexbuicks site and read it, 10 times. Seriously, this site can teach you anything you will need to know about these cars. And as you research one problem/issue you will also get other info that you will use later....I know, my car had lots of problems and its good to go now. You will be better of later as you will understand how the car operates
here we go again!!! first you have an important tuning device hidden between the seats and now you have another important device placed under the radio!! i'm not telling you where to put them but they need to be at eye view. if you ever have a cracked hose or boost problem and that creates knock how are you going to look at the scanner and boost gauge at the sametime. nobody is that multi-tasked. i am only saying this because you are having tuning issues and alot of thinks can be overlooked by having these things out of sight. this is as bad as texting and driving! getting back to your problem you can eliminate the y on the boost lines and just connect the hose from the compressor housing to the wastegate. this will give you the lowest boost setting allowed. not trying to bust your balls you may have bought the car this way but please try to move them asap.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
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- 16,824
If you go out and look at fast(or ones still running!) TBs the most obvious things you'll notice in the interior is Boost gauge on pillar in your face and ScanMaster on the dash in your face. Gee, I wonder why?
Throw that MAF you got on and see what happens.
Throw that MAF you got on and see what happens.
The maf should be here any day. Today was a no knock day 773 on the 02. Still has low maf readings.
I noticed the boost shoots up to 17-18 when I stab it and levels off to 15 and creeps up to 16. I usually have to lift because I'm afraid of popping a head gasket due to KR, but not today. New MAF and adjustable wg and we'll see what happens.
Also, removing the cat made a world of difference. Seems I'm getting better 02 readings. Is this all in my head? Took cat off, no knock 02's over 800 at part throttle.
I noticed the boost shoots up to 17-18 when I stab it and levels off to 15 and creeps up to 16. I usually have to lift because I'm afraid of popping a head gasket due to KR, but not today. New MAF and adjustable wg and we'll see what happens.
Also, removing the cat made a world of difference. Seems I'm getting better 02 readings. Is this all in my head? Took cat off, no knock 02's over 800 at part throttle.
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
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- May 4, 2005
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- 7,697
I would get a boost controller or check your hoses for leaks
pmoore4321
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You really need to listen to these guys and get your "gauge cluster" (SM,FP gauge, boost,etc) in a location where you can monitor it without taking your eyes off the road. I am relatively new to this also and when I bought my car the Scanmaster was mounted below the radio pod. Impossible to safely monitor while hauling ass down the road. I think Razor mentioned to get the SM up on top of the dash near the boost gauge at least while tuning.
I had to give an update, without a convertor the car has absolutley zero KR. I'm going to install the new maf and start putting timing back. Its night and day difference. Shifting to second would give a nice bark, now it kind of burns the tires switching gears. The 02 readings are even higher at wot.
