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Checking a main bearing

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MCH86GN

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2008
Messages
1,476
I wanted to check one of my main bearings. Is it ok to simply remove the main cap and look at the bearing and assuming no issues simply tighten the main cap back to spec with a torque wrench?

Thanks.
 
If there is no bearing material in the filter I see no reason to do that.And if there is it time to remove the engine . If the rear main seal is leaking so bad that you're oiling the underside down, yes two birds with one stone is OK. but just to look, not something I would do.
 
If there is no bearing material in the filter I see no reason to do that.And if there is it time to remove the engine . If the rear main seal is leaking so bad that you're oiling the underside down, yes two birds with one stone is OK. but just to look, not something I would do.
Well in 2019 the oil pressure switch, sprung an oil leak. The oil started leaking out the prongs of the pressure switch and my oil did hit a critically low mark.
Maybe I shut my engine off in time and there was not damage, because I couldn't find any metal particulate in the filter medium. However, since I am replacing my oil pan and gasket I figure it might be worth looking at to see if bearing number 2 has any damage. But, with no discernable loss of oil pressure while running with the engine heated up maybe I should just leave it alone. I do not want to actually take it off. I am concerned that if I did remove it, on reinstall I wouldn't get it torqued properly or just unsettling the number 2 main bearing.

I will tell that if there is no real damage to the main and/or rods bearings I would be somewhat shocked, because I did lose almost all of my oil.

Thanks for input, I really appreciate it.
 
If you're pulling your oil pan you'll see everything you need to know. How many miles, oil pressure, oil weight? My pressure was a whopping 10 psi with 20w50, when I pulled my pan holy moly what a mess. The turbo buicks oil pan has this great feature where you'll never drain any crap out of the bottom of it because of the drain plug setup.
 
I was running 20W50 and I did not let my engine warm
If you're pulling your oil pan you'll see everything you need to know. How many miles, oil pressure, oil weight? My pressure was a whopping 10 psi with 20w50, when I pulled my pan holy moly what a mess. The turbo buicks oil pan has this great feature where you'll never drain any crap out of the bottom of it because of the drain plug setup.
I had replaced my oil pan back in 2016 when my engine was rebuilt. I am changing it because I slide the floor jack back too far and my new oil got jacked. I pulled it again and I was able to get the dents out and I then had it powder coated and I put it back on. While I was installing it I got some denatured alky or brake clean on the pan and the "powder coating" basically dissolved like it was simply a coat of aluminum paint. It just so happened that I picked up a brand new RJC oil pan, never mounted, for a good price and I had it as a spare. I got it powder coated from a much more reputable company and as a litmus test I sprayed a little bit of brake clean on it and the brake clean had no effect on it. That is the reason for the pan swap.

Running 20W50 VR1 full synthetic, as recommended my engine builder, I took my car out in 2019 and I did not let engine oil warm enough and I got on it at aboot half throttle and I guess the oil pressure got so high it blew through the prongs of the oil switch. I wasn't aware that I was leaking oil and when I was driving down my street to my house my idiot light came on to indicate the oil pressure had dropped below 3 psi. I was close enough to my house to shut the engine off and put the car in neutral and roll home. Based on that event, I wanted to make sure that I did not hurt my engine.

I am fairly certain I did not, I took the filter off and looked the medium and I did not see any signs of metal. I am not sure if the bearings material is magnetic, but nonetheless I still ran a magnet through the oil and through each pleat on the oil filter. I did not see any sparkles and at operating temperature the engine oil pressure was right at 25 psi. The same as when the engine was first rebuilt.

Anyway I probably will not take the number 2 main cap off to inspect the bearing. Sorry so long.
 
yes that switch has felled on a few people 20-50 is not the reason for that switch to fell.
Like LANDAU said pull the pan and look CHUCK has a good suggestion too, so when the lab reports back you can put together a good plan.
Im aware that plenty of engine builders recombined 20-50oil .Not my choice and VR1 is good stuff but has very little detergent in it for street use again not my choice. But you have been using good oil and costing in after the light came on is OK.
Short story or true story little old lady pulled into the shop lifter noise with light on in a 3.8 NA regal. Pump shaft is broke at gear, little old lady is broke. We pulled the filter no metal ,installed a new set of gears and filter crossed our finger, started it and it had oil pressure sent her on her way in less than 2 hours no charge. PS she drove it from the grocery store 6 blocks and 6 stoplights away.
But oil weight and brand will turn this this into a 5 page debate.
 
yes that switch has felled on a few people 20-50 is not the reason for that switch to fell.
Like LANDAU said pull the pan and look CHUCK has a good suggestion too, so when the lab reports back you can put together a good plan.
Im aware that plenty of engine builders recombined 20-50oil .Not my choice and VR1 is good stuff but has very little detergent in it for street use again not my choice. But you have been using good oil and costing in after the light came on is OK.
Short story or true story little old lady pulled into the shop lifter noise with light on in a 3.8 NA regal. Pump shaft is broke at gear, little old lady is broke. We pulled the filter no metal ,installed a new set of gears and filter crossed our finger, started it and it had oil pressure sent her on her way in less than 2 hours no charge. PS she drove it from the grocery store 6 blocks and 6 stoplights away.
But oil weight and brand will turn this this into a 5 page debate.
Thanks for information. As far as the 20W50 VR1, my engine builder basically indicated that the detergent in newer oils could cause "issues". I am not exactly sure how Dave Roland worded, but his suggestion was to use VR1 convention as part of the break-in oil and then switch to the 20W50 VR1 fully synthetic. That is for a different thread. When my oil ran low in 2019, obviously I fixed to issue and looked through the filter medium and oil and I saw nothing. I changed the oil twice and then drove the car the rest of 2019 summer, 2020 - 2022 summer. At the beginning of each summer I changed the oil and filter and cut the filter and strained the oil to see if I found any metal and the answer was no. Once I get my car put back together I will be starting off with a new oil pan and fresh oil. I will need to drive it a bit before I get a sample of the oil and utilize the testing service that Chuck has recommended.
 
A quick and easy to do a check....
Hey Chuck,

Blackstone Labs sent me five containers I believe for oil samples. They seem like a great company to work with. I am fairly certain that I can send a sample of my daily driver there as well.
 
I used their service way back when I was a "nurse maid" for a fleet of heavy equipment at a nuc plant construction site.
Super good results.
 
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