Chip Identification

[ScottHeidinger]

That chip (#8088) was made for this combo:

86/87 Turbo Buick
60lb Injector
93 Octane
Alcohol Injection - Alkycontrol single nozzle
TE44 Turbo
Front Mount Intercooler
3500 Stall Converter
Stock Ported Heads
Lunati Mild Cam
High 11 second target 1/4 mile

You just can’t beat that for customer service. You didn’t even need to send him a email and he helped you out with a lot of information about your car.


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[istretch]

You can also have Eric burn you a chip to use without the alky. There is nothing wrong with alky but from what you’re saying you probably don’t need it. With the alky your car is set up to run 23-25 psi of boost and as long as the pump is working right the car should run good assuming you keep the coolant bottle with the alky cap full and test the pump frequently as the pumps will fail and you can’t safely run that much boost (or the timing that’s required with the alky) without alcohol injection. If you have him burn you a 93 octane chip you can run the car without the alky. You really don’t want any local car repair shops touching your car. Unfortunately even completely stock most shops should not be trusted with your car. Especially if it’s not running right. It’s too easy for a fuel delivery issue to end up costing you a engine ($5k plus) with these cars. There are several good options for people to help you with your car on this site. Your best option is reading and learning as much as you can so you at least understand the basics of your new car. There are plenty of people willing to help on here no matter what issues you encounter.
Here are a couple links.
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com
http://www.gnttype.org

Thanks so much for the info. I will, indeed, try to get hold of Eric so he can burn a chip for 93 octane and eliminate the Alky thing. This site is the greatest!

 

[istretch]

That chip (#8088) was made for this combo:

86/87 Turbo Buick
60lb Injector
93 Octane
Alcohol Injection - Alkycontrol single nozzle
TE44 Turbo
Front Mount Intercooler
3500 Stall Converter
Stock Ported Heads
Lunati Mild Cam
High 11 second target 1/4 mile

Hi Eric, I'm istretch. Thanks so much for that info.This is really new to me so I need a lot of help. I love this car and I want it to stay that way. Someone mentioned that you could burn me a chip to run on 93 octane and eliminate the alky thing. Apparently, that is used if I wanted to race it?? I don't want to do that; all I want to do is run it, get on it occasionally, light up the tires once in a while, take it to car shows; I'll leave the tank installed to make it look good on the car show circuit. Tell me what I have to do to get that chip, if available.

Reading alot of articles, it seems as though the original valve springs were a weak spot on the 3.8. Seeing that you know more about this engine than I do, the previous owner indicated the engine was professionally rebuilt. I would think, then, that the valve springs were updated? What are your thoughts. Thanks for your help, Eric. I really appreciate it. JIM

 

[ScottHeidinger]

I’m sure the valve springs were replaced when the heads were ported and the cam was installed. You can certainly use the car as it is with the alky on the street and it will run fine. The alky pumps should be replaced every couple of years if you use it and you probably won’t use much alky for your stated goals. Problems happen when people don’t understand that the alky bottle needs to stay full or they don’t test the system frequently enough to realize the pump failed and then bad things can happen. I would also run some ZDDP in your oil because you probably have a flat tappet cam.

Here is a link to Eric’s web site.

https://www.turbotweakstore.com/mobile/default.aspx


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[istretch]

I’m sure the valve springs were replaced when the heads were ported and the cam was installed. You can certainly use the car as it is with the alky on the street and it will run fine. The alky pumps should be replaced every couple of years if you use it and you probably won’t use much alky for your stated goals. Problems happen when people don’t understand that the alky bottle needs to stay full or they don’t test the system frequently enough to realize the pump failed and then bad things can happen. I would also run some ZDDP in your oil because you probably have a flat tappet cam.

Here is a link to Eric’s web site.

https://www.turbotweakstore.com/mobile/default.aspx


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Thanx for the info. I use ZDDP in all of my vehicles.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

Hi Eric, I'm istretch. Thanks so much for that info.This is really new to me so I need a lot of help. I love this car and I want it to stay that way. Someone mentioned that you could burn me a chip to run on 93 octane and eliminate the alky thing. Apparently, that is used if I wanted to race it?? I don't want to do that; all I want to do is run it, get on it occasionally, light up the tires once in a while, take it to car shows; I'll leave the tank installed to make it look good on the car show circuit. Tell me what I have to do to get that chip, if available.

Reading alot of articles, it seems as though the original valve springs were a weak spot on the 3.8. Seeing that you know more about this engine than I do, the previous owner indicated the engine was professionally rebuilt. I would think, then, that the valve springs were updated? What are your thoughts. Thanks for your help, Eric. I really appreciate it. JIM

You could run E85 if it's available in your area and run 25-28 psi. boost all the time to take advantage of the larger turbo without worry of the the alky pump.

Just another option.

 

[Boost231]

I would not remove alky regardless how you drive the car.

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[RUQWKNF]

First off, welcome aboard istretch. Glad you found us.

You've come to the right place to learn about these cars.
I personally think that once you get more familiar with what you have, as well as how to tune and use the alky system, you will absolutely want to keep it on the car. I myself didn't run the alky system in the past because I was an old school, race gas type of racer. But with my current car, I have become more familiar with it and had great success in using it. I feel it is the best thing that's ever happened for these cars for making safe power. I wish I would have had it on my other cars years ago.The Alky Control kit is nothing to be worried about, or afraid of using. You just have to keep an eye on the alky level in the tank and signs of when the pump needs to be replaced. If it's a full blown Alky Control kit, there should be an LED light in the a-pillar gauge holder, or somewhere on the dash. Also, there should be a small box with a toggle switch and a rotary knob that has the Alky Control logo on it. That's the main control module that you use to activate the system and test the system. Here is the direct link to Julio's kit that a lot of owners run today with great success. Myself included.

https://www.alkycontrol.com/product-page/meth-injection-buick-grand-national-3bar


And here is a great article on the alky system and how to use it.

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/alcohol.html


Now, with that amount of mods you've found out the car has, your car should also have a Scanmaster on it. And here is a fantastic article on how to use the Scanmaster.

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/Scantool_Readings.htm


And finally, here's some more reading material for you to check out.

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/index.html

https://turbobuick.com/threads/info-for-new-turbo-regal-owners.380856/


One thing you gotta know from the start, the power differences between 93 octane pump gas only with 15-17 psi of boost and 93 pump gas and using the alky system with 21-24psi, is significant with your combo. We're talking going from a low 13/high 12's capable combo, to a low 12's - high 11's combo with traction. Easily 80-100 hp difference. I would not turn it down and run pump gas, knowing what I know now about the benefits of 93 pump gas with alky. It's a night and day difference. But, I can understand wanting to get to know the car first with a safe tune and it being turned down. In some cases, that's the smart play, especially if your mechanic'ing skills and or budget are low. Not saying you are, just a generalization. One thing all of us need to know, in order to help keep you from blowing up the car, is what type of boost controller does it have? Is it a manual bleeder valve like RJC Racing sells? What type of downpipe does it have? Internal wastegate or external wastegate? And does it have a Scanmaster?

These questions can be answered quick with some pics. As was said previously, post up some pictures of your engine bay and the interior and we can help further ID what you have, and give you more good tid bits of advice while getting used to the car and how to tune it.

We're all here to help and can understand the challenges you face with a new to you platform/car. It can be a daunting task learning everything, but if you do your homework, read up and ask as many questions as you can, you'll be surprised just how quickly you get used to owning one of these Legends of the automotive world.

Let us know about your previous cars and what you're familiar with will also greatly help us help you.

Again, welcome aboard.

-Patrick-

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Find someone locally, that has a Turbo Buick.

 

[istretch]

Hi. Yup that would be the best situation scenerio but I am the only person with a Grand National. No-one in my immediate location has a Turbo Buick much less a GN. Most of the people in my area don't even know what a GN is. When I mention the GN, I get a "Oh, really?" When I showed my boss what I bought, his comment was, "You must have paid $8,000 for an old '87 Buick." Obviously, they don't know what a GN is. That's what I have to deal with here.

 

[RUQWKNF]

With you being in the UP, there are two shops that I can refer you to in the state of MI that specializes in Turbo Buicks. Unfortunately, they aren't very close, but at least you have Turbo Buick gurus in your state.

Full Throttle Speed in Fraser MI.
Mike, Marianne and Steve Licht.

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/


And Aggressive Performance in Clinton Twp MI.
Bruce and his crew.

http://www.aggressiveauto.com/

That's the two long time knowledgeable shops in Michigan that honestly know Turbo Buicks. FWIW, Mike was responsible for bringing this website into existence. Both of them can get you squared away with any of your needs.

-Patrick-

 

[Gary Durden]

As others have stated run the alky as it is added insurance against detonation and possible blown head gasket. Nothing wrong with lighting the tires as you stated but with added insurance. Enjoy.

 

[jay dcpt]

Where are you located?

 

[istretch]

Located at the western tip of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. Small town called "Ironwood".

 

[earlbrown]

I think I would be happier with just a stock GN. Options, brands, types, upgrades, combinations, codes, problems, what are the right parts and where to find them; just too complicated for me to feel comfortable.

Stick with what you've got. You'll have all that same stuff to deal with if you had a stocker.


On the alky, there's two trains of thought. Getting rid of it (and getting a non-alky chip) will make the car less fast due to the lower boost levels.

If you're cool with that, not worrying about the pump or keeping the reservoir full is one less thing to worry about.


Then again, drive it with the alky off and if you ever want to go faster, have Julio freshen up the pump and crank up the boost with the alky chip.

 

[istretch]

Thanks for your suggestions. I already ordered a non-alky chip from Eric. Then I won't have to use the alky system at all?? Will that damage anything?

I wasn't sure if I could run the car without the Alky system on or if that would damage something. My biggest problem is not knowing what I can do and not do to avoid any damage to anything. Didn't know these turbo things were so complicated.

What kind of alky stuff can you run? Where do you get it? How much or where to set the dial and when do you use it. Also heard people adding WATER to the alky. Can't imagine that being good for any car. One guy said he saw someone use WINDSHIELD WASHER FLUID. Are you kidding me?!! Just doesn't seem right.

I do have another question: Previous owner indicated he had a 3800 RPM stall converter. Can you tell me what that means? I've seen them rated at 2800 RPM; would my 3800 be a misprint? And for what reason do we have this "Stall" feature. Thanks.

 

[michael evans]

Thanks for your suggestions. I already ordered a non-alky chip from Eric. Then I won't have to use the alky system at all?? Will that damage anything?

I wasn't sure if I could run the car without the Alky system on or if that would damage something. My biggest problem is not knowing what I can do and not do to avoid any damage to anything. Didn't know these turbo things were so complicated.

What kind of alky stuff can you run? Where do you get it? How much or where to set the dial and when do you use it. Also heard people adding WATER to the alky. Can't imagine that being good for any car. One guy said he saw someone use WINDSHIELD WASHER FLUID. Are you kidding me?!! Just doesn't seem right.

I do have another question: Previous owner indicated he had a 3800 RPM stall converter. Can you tell me what that means? I've seen them rated at 2800 RPM; would my 3800 be a misprint? And for what reason do we have this "Stall" feature. Thanks.

If you are not going to be running over 17 pounds of boost, you will not need the Alky system.

People run different mixes of Alcohol Some like me run "M1" straight out of the can , some do a 50-50 mix with water.

The only thing you don't want in the system is anything that is petroleum based (gasoline).

Windshield fluid can be used in a pinch (I would not)

Simple explanation of converter stall:

What stall means in a converter is the maximum RPM that the engine will spin freely before it will power the input shaft of the transmission.

Just because the box says 3800 does not mean that is what it is, there are a few things that affect it. The engines output torque will affect it mainly.

 

[istretch]

So, is it the chip that determines/limits how much boost is developed?

Converter: Under normal driving conditions, not racing, does this mean my engine revs to, lets say, 2800 or 3800 before it moves at all or just for higher performance? These may be dumb questions, but I don't want to learn the answer after a blown head gasket or engine. Please bear w/me. Thanks.

 

[earlbrown]

No, the chip is burned for the amount of boost you're planning on running.

More boost = more power = more air (so you need more fuel).

 

[Boost231]

I see a head gasket post in the near future. I would have kept the alky

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