Codes, Who do I believe? Powerlogger or Snap On Scanner?

Codes, Who do I believe? Powerlogger or Snap On Scanner?

  • Snap On Scanner

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    2

Gnx6

Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2003
Codes, Who do I believe? Powerlogger or Snap On Scanner?

My car runs great but I am having a few small issues. BLM goes to 160 at idle (bad) but is 122 to 129 cruising which I know is perfect. I had the powerlogger hooked up and it said Code 44 O2 sensor. I did notice that the O2's would drop out at idle after about 20 seconds so I put an O2 in it. Here is where it gets interesting. I checked for codes with 2 different devices:

Powerlogger said code:
44 O2 Sensor.

My Snap On red brick scanner had these codes:
41 No camshaft reference signal
34 Maf Sensor or ckt too low
33 Maf Sensor or ckt too high

I do have a Translator Gen 2 with an extender extreme chip. I had lean issues cruising a while back so I changed the MAF, fuel pump & fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator (Fuel pressure was dropping a few psi after long drives) and put in an RJC PCV valve.

So my real question is this, who do I believe for the codes?

I know a cracked exhaust can cause high BLM at idle, I was going to check for that with an Evap smoke test machine.

Thanks!
 
A normal scanner will see things differently. Go with the powerlogger.

Did you know you can add fuel with the gen2 to lower blm's?

A 3ft piece of 5/8 hose works great for finding exhaust leaks. Hold one end to your ear and scan the exhaust with the other. Motor running ofcourse.;)

RL
 
I'm guessing you can probably solve your high idle BLM problem by ditching that piece if junk aftermarket PCV (it isn't really a PCV, it's a check valve). Get a real PCV with the 893 part number. That RJC thing is nothing more than an un-metered air leak and is likely the caus of your BLM issue.

Why the SnapOn was showing all those unrelated codes is wierd. Almost like a chip that needs to be re-seated. After you put the new O2 in, did you reset the ECM to clear the codes?
 
I agree.......get rid of the PCV check valve as it's most likely responsible for your high BLM issues (of course this is assuming you don't have any pre-turbo exhaust leaks).
You really don't require an inline PCV check valve unless you're running a PCV catch can, as the check valve will prevent your catch can from pressurizing while you are under boost conditions).
Now install either the factory AC Delco 893 PCV Valve or Autozones 1162 PCV Valve. Myself & quite a few other members are using the Autozone 1162 and have found it offers more consistent BLM's than the AC Delco. Just be sure to check the Autozone PCV Valve by blowing into it to make sure it seals 100% before you buy it, as I've found a few that did not and had to make another trip back to the store to get one that did seal properly.
After changing over to one of these PCV Valves, let us know what your BLM reading are.....I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with the results.


dave
 
the codes on the snap on could be 2 things.

if the chip has the high speed datastream option, then generic scantools will display incorrectly. (this is the most likely scenario)

The GN ecm shares some circuitry between the low speed fan control and the datastream. Under some circumstances the datastream can be corrupted when the fan is on. The scanmaster has filtering components in it to prevent this, but a Snap On may not.

Bob
 
the codes on the snap on could be 2 things.

if the chip has the high speed datastream option, then generic scantools will display incorrectly. (this is the most likely scenario)

The GN ecm shares some circuitry between the low speed fan control and the datastream. Under some circumstances the datastream can be corrupted when the fan is on. The scanmaster has filtering components in it to prevent this, but a Snap On may not.

Bob

Thanks! I was scanning the car last night key on engine off, it was stone cold. I did make sure to hit the monitor button on powerlogger (f8 I think) to make sure it was linked and reading data before.

A week ago when I scanned it the powerlogger said maf low and Snap on said o2. Which came first, the chicken or the egg?

I think because my cam sensor is original I will swap out to a Caspers one I bought with the LED a few years ago (just because of the risk) and I will change the PCV valve and see where it stands. I know on OBD2 cars if you do anything to affect the airflow it will set lean codes so I was suspicions of the PCV valve causing the MAF code as I had changed the flow rating of the "calibrated air leak" of unregistered air.
 
I agree.......get rid of the PCV check valve as it's most likely responsible for your high BLM issues (of course this is assuming you don't have any pre-turbo exhaust leaks).
You really don't require an inline PCV check valve unless you're running a PCV catch can, as the check valve will prevent your catch can from pressurizing while you are under boost conditions).
Now install either the factory AC Delco 893 PCV Valve or Autozones 1162 PCV Valve. Myself & quite a few other members are using the Autozone 1162 and have found it offers more consistent BLM's than the AC Delco. Just be sure to check the Autozone PCV Valve by blowing into it to make sure it seals 100% before you buy it, as I've found a few that did not and had to make another trip back to the store to get one that did seal properly.
After changing over to one of these PCV Valves, let us know what your BLM reading are.....I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with the results.
dave

Autozone shows a PCV1126 online but the 1162 is the one to get?
Buy this one?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/AZ-Filters-PCV-Valve/_/N-8gd7h?itemIdentifier=918527_0_0_

As opposed to this one?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1987-Buick-Regal/PCV-Valve/_/N-iidqmZ8gd7h

There is also this one from a Buick Vendor
http://www.nos4gn.com/servlet/the-820/buick-grand-national-parts/Detail
 
The second one!! The metal 1162. Although I respect Highway Stars very much, the PCV you make reference is not familiar.
 
I figured flash codes or powerlogger are correct as Bob had mentioned data stream issues with high speed data option which I have. I didn't take a chance on the cam sensor code even if it was a result of invalid data interpeted by the red brick. Especially since mine was original and I had a spare caspers sensor. Last thing I want is to get stuck somewhere with it.

I did notice the red brick also shows 150g/sec of airflow key on engine off which I figured was phooey due to the extender option..
 
Has anyone used any check valves with any success with a PCV or is it best to just use pcv alone?
 
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