Coil Pack and Spark Plug wire resistance ?

[ikle]

It is possible, as Earl said the timing will be inconsistent with up/down play.

Now for the $200 question, lol, where does one buy one ?

 

[Lil Truck]

The shims you should be able to order from a local auto parts, or online. Small block Chevy distributor shim kit.
If Earl does not get back to you with the proper clearance, I will be able to give you the clearance off a new cam sensor later this week.

 

[earlbrown]

The ignition timing is controlled by the crank sensor and the ECM. The cam sensor's job is for fuel timing. As long as it's in the window, you're fine. Granted it's not a good idea to have the sensor bouncing up and down so it needs to be addressed.

I'm almost starting to wonder if your 9 year old double roller is sloppy too. They are pretty notorious for developing slack pretty quickly.

 

[ikle]

The ignition timing is controlled by the crank sensor and the ECM. The cam sensor's job is for fuel timing. As long as it's in the window, you're fine. Granted it's not a good idea to have the sensor bouncing up and down so it needs to be addressed.

I'm almost starting to wonder if your 9 year old double roller is sloppy too. They are pretty notorious for developing slack pretty quickly.

Ok I think I am going to either have my cam sensor rebuilt by GNS or replace it with a new Standard one from Highway Stars to adress that issue.

Now is there a way to check the timing chain without removing the front cover ?

 

[earlbrown]

or you could just add a .50 shim.


Yes, just put the crank at 25* ATDC compression and turn the sensor until the voltage drops.

 

[GNRick]

Any updates?

 

[ikle]

Any updates?

With the extremely cold winter we had I only had the chance to have my cam sensor rebuilt by Scott @ GNS Performance. I only had the car running for a few minutes and the ticking sound seemed to gone, I'll know more when I take her for a ride after the town cleans up the sand on the roads, that is when the sound was more apparent. One thing I have to say is when I removed my cam sensor, at the time, it didn't seem to have enough play to create the problem, it was very, very minimal. I only had it rebuilt just to rule it out and when I received it back from Scott there was a huge improvement in how it felt. Scott did a great job and I would highly recommend him. Next week I am going to change the oil and look to see if I have any metal partials on the magnetic drain plug and cut open the filter to rule out my cam. I'll try to keep you posted, feel free to remind me . Thanks, Kyle.

 

[GNRick]

I did a search and it was said that a good coil pack resistance is between 11.5-13.0 ohm's. So I tested mine and this is what I came up with:
1-4 = 10.16 ohm's
2-5 =10.17 ohm's
3-6 = 10.47 ohm's
I did this cold with the battery disconnected.

I also tested two sets of spark plug wires the first was Magnacore: 1 = 4.52 ohm, 2 = 3.37 ohm, 3 = 3.36 ohm, 4 = 3.32 ohm, 5 = 3.70 ohm and 6 = 4.05 ohm

The secound set is Kirbans high performance wires: 1 = 0.66 ohm, 2 = 0.50 ohm, 3 = 0.47 ohm, 4 = 0.47 ohm, 5 = 0.50 ohm and 6 = 0.59 ohm.

How does the coil look ( do i need a new one since its not in the 11.5-13.0 ohm specs ) and which spark plugs should I use. Thanks for your replies, Kyle.

Magnecore website says lower resistance numbers on wires means there is less wire, which is a bad thing. See page 46. http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/files/catalog.pdf

 

[ikle]

Update, after changing the oil I didn't see any metallic in the oil, cut open the filter and that too was clean. I did, however, have a little bit of fine black metallic particals ( like graphite ) on the magnetic drain plug which I hope might be normal . Took the car for a ride and the ticking noise ( like noisy injectors would make ) is still present at about 2,000-2,200 rpm, but I really only notice it while driving the car. I am going to disconnect the speedo cable to see if that might be it since I hear it right in that general area.