Car makes boost but it's really slow.

[13xturbo]

A bb 44 is much faster spooling than the non bb version.if you didn't see that when you put it in then that may be part of the problem.changing the converter could be the other problem.since there are issues you should be data logging or watching gauges to see what's happening.afr and fuel pressure would be on the list.

Yes I realize that it should spool faster with the BB 44 but there is an issue with the car that I cannot find at this point. My original 44 was older I scored a deal on the new BB hoping it would be my issue and it wasn't then I was told my converter was the issue so I bought a new one and that didn't fix it either. I am at a loss at this point I cannot figure out what it could be. My fuel pressure is set at 43psi and never drops

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

What happens when you wire the puck shut?

 

[Ttype6]

My fuel pressure is set at 43psi and never drops

Is it 43 when the engine is idling in gear?

 

[No disintegrations]

In post 1 , "it was running good then at the track it wouldn't build boost."
Maybe the engine was damaged at the track?

 

[13xturbo]

In post 1 , "it was running good then at the track it wouldn't build boost."
Maybe the engine was damaged at the track?

That's what I am wondering, maybe a cam lobe is warn out or something. I did a leak down test and compression test but maybe something in the valve train is not right.

 

[13xturbo]

I took the car out on the road tonight first time I have driven it on the street in a couple years and if you keep a steady speed/RPM it seems to be fine for 15/20 seconds then it will stutter then be fine again then stutter again not always every 15/20 seconds but the engine will have a slight stutter at an even speed. You don't notice it if you are accelerating and decelerating a lot only at a steady speed

 

[No disintegrations]

Stock type maf? They aren't too good lately.

 

[13xturbo]

Stock type maf? They aren't too good lately.

Yes it's a stock MAF but I replaced it with a new one just to be sure that wasn't the issue

 

[No disintegrations]

Right but even new ones are poor quality these days. People have bought 6 to get one that works.

 

[ttypewhite]

Do you still have a catalytic converter on the car? If so, it's time to remove it, or hollow it out.

 

[13xturbo]

I can try getting another MAF and try that. Oh and yes the cat has been removed

 

[Mr.Spool]

I took the car out on the road tonight first time I have driven it on the street in a couple years and if you keep a steady speed/RPM it seems to be fine for 15/20 seconds then it will stutter then be fine again then stutter again not always every 15/20 seconds but the engine will have a slight stutter at an even speed. You don't notice it if you are accelerating and decelerating a lot only at a steady speed

Put a wideband on the car and log it.right now I would do a visual inspection of the intercooler and piping

 

[GNRick]

If your new turbo has a Precision housing you might need a 3200 converter. I know I did.

 

[ATL_87GN]

Check for exhaust leaks or cracks in the manifolds, if you have manifold gaskets they may have blown. Leave on 5psi and see if it makes a difference. Sometimes alky will bog down the motor off the line and the turn on will have to be raised. I would be going over every inch from the turbo outlet to the triangle inlet to the turbine housing. Put some wax/chalk on the wastegate puck, bolt it up and see where it is seals on the turbo wastegate hole. Inspect the weld for the wastegate arm also, I've seen several aftermarkets crack. Since the turbo was just replaced, make sure it isn't clocked upwards where the wastegate rod is further out and not sealing the puck.

 

[No disintegrations]

Check for exhaust leaks or cracks in the manifolds, if you have manifold gaskets they may have blown. Leave on 5psi and see if it makes a difference. Sometimes alky will bog down the motor off the line and the turn on will have to be raised. I would be going over every inch from the turbo outlet to the triangle inlet to the turbine housing. Put some wax/chalk on the wastegate puck, bolt it up and see where it is seals on the turbo wastegate hole. Inspect the weld for the wastegate arm also, I've seen several aftermarkets crack. Since the turbo was just replaced, make sure it isn't clocked upwards where the wastegate rod is further out and not sealing the puck.

Good ideas but in post 26 the car has a stutter or hesitation. Cracked headers and wastegate pucks don't cause that in my experience.

 

[dank GN]

Have you checked your fuseable links ? They live there life right by your hot ass headers and I’ve seen numerous issues with them grounding out or just worn from all the years . Also your grounds how are they ? Like I said I’ve seen so many random issues that had ppl stumped and it turned out to be ether there main power feeds or there main grounds .

 

[NY_GN]

I had similar issue, ended up being crossover pipe and wastegate leaking. Sh#@%y gaskets. It would build boost, but struggle to do so. I had hesitation because it was running rich to compensate and it would bog down. It would spool instantly like a beast before that. I ran a shopvac to the tail pipe and forced air thru it, took 2 seconds to diagnose.

 

[TurboBuRick]

How much boost? Did boost change?

Do a short wot pull in 3rd gear. 50-70mph. Then recall the o2 millivolts and knock. Post back the numbers.

 

[bison]

You either have ,major exhaust leakage, major inlet restriction, major exhaust restriction, charge air leakage, converter too tight or broke, the turbo has a much larger exhasut wheel than you think, or the blades are ripped off the turbine or compressor. remove the pipe and take a clear picture of the hot side of the turbo

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Lots of $/time thrown at the problem, lots of good suggestions here, and still no data logs.....