Combo for mid to low tens(sticky?)

[Goat]

Lol Im driving a hybird, but Im looking into keeping a stock motor/head setup. I want to be a little faster, but nothing wild.

Im just wondering on how a Grand National weights in at 3,400 and my S10 is 4,100 and Im making good times with it on a stock motor?

 

[SS/GN]

#1 the most important !!!
#4 is wrong !!! DRIVE the car on the street an learn the cars manners. It will tell you what it wants and dislikes YES they do talk to ya !!

Track time has still given you valuable dataA pro mod racer once told me "a car will talk to you,ya just have to be smart enough to listen":wink:Oh and I have to believe that driver you have is a ringer

Kevin

 

[blackgn1]

Setup for a high 10 second car
Ok so a person can use these:

1) stock crank
2) stock rods
3) stock pistons
4) stock cam
5) mild head work
6) port matched stock intake

Ok someone add their input. My cost for the setup so far is cheap.:biggrin:

 

[jasjamz]

My ten second checklist>>>>>

This is for full weight cars, with iron heads, 70mm or smaller turbos, simple suspension mods, and stock or mild long blocks.

If you answer "NO" to any of the following questions you may want to make it a "Yes" before shooting for the 10 Second timeslip.

Questions about the driver/owner....1. Do you know how to operate and interpet the Scanmaster and wideband?
2. Do you know when the car is experiencing knock retard?
3. Are you scared to use more than 25psi and up to 35psi?
4. You are understand and accept that a failed attempt can result in broken parts that can cost thousands of dollars to repair.
5. Are you a patient person that can take small steps to reach a goal.
6. Can you accept constructive criticism?
8. Do you log your data and understand the affects of the changes you make?


Car questions....1. Do you have a Scanmaster?
2. Do you have enough fueling and turbo to support 470-500 RWHP?
3. Do you have a sticky tire that is 28 inches in diameter?
4. Do you have a good working trans and converter under full boost?
5. Have you had 60fts in the low 1.60s or 1.50s?
6. Do you plan to use pump gas and methanol, race fuel(C-16) or E85?
7. Do you have a way to adjust timing and fueling with a chip, piggy back or ECU?
8. Have you seen cars weight and combo simular to yours achieve the goal?

This is all my opinion and hope it helps some of you meet your goal.

 

[Grumpy]

Setup for a high 10 second car
Ok so a person can use these:

1) stock crank
2) stock rods
3) stock pistons
4) stock cam
5) mild head work
6) port matched stock intake

Ok someone add their input. My cost for the setup so far is cheap.:biggrin:

yes it will def work for a while like Bison said. Stock pistons only take so much. Oh better not see any knock. The Melissa/Mazda motor is still running like a champ BUT it can still spill its guts anytime !!

 

[SS/GN]

This is for full weight cars, with iron heads, 70mm or smaller turbos, simple suspension mods, and stock or mild long blocks.

If you answer "NO" to any of the following questions you may want to make it a "Yes" before shooting for the 10 Second timeslip.

Questions about the driver/owner....1. Do you know how to operate and interpet the Scanmaster and wideband?
2. Do you know when the car is experiencing knock retard?
3. Are you scared to use more than 25psi and up to 35psi?
4. You are understand and accept that a failed attempt can result in broken parts that can cost thousands of dollars to repair.
5. Are you a patient person that can take small steps to reach a goal.
6. Can you accept constructive criticism?
8. Do you log your data and understand the affects of the changes you make?


Car questions....1. Do you have a Scanmaster?
2. Do you have enough fueling and turbo to support 470-500 RWHP?
3. Do you have a sticky tire that is 28 inches in diameter?
4. Do you have a good working trans and converter under full boost?
5. Have you had 60fts in the low 1.60s or 1.50s?
6. Do you plan to use pump gas and methanol, race fuel(C-16) or E85?
7. Do you have a way to adjust timing and fueling with a chip, piggy back or ECU?
8. Have you seen cars weight and combo simular to yours achieve the goal?

This is all my opinion and hope it helps some of you meet your goal.

That is an excellent over view:biggrin:.Their is sooo much more than just bolting on the parts.Thanks for a great way of looking at the tune process

Kevin

 

[jasjamz]

This is for full weight cars, with iron heads, 70mm or smaller turbos, simple suspension mods, and stock or mild long blocks.

If you answer "NO" to any of the following questions you may want to make it a "Yes" before shooting for the 10 Second timeslip.

Questions about the driver/owner....1. Do you know how to operate and interpet the Scanmaster and wideband?
2. Do you know when the car is experiencing knock retard?
3. You're aware you need to use more than 25psi and up to 35psi?
4. You are understand and accept that a failed attempt can result in broken parts that can cost thousands of dollars to repair.
5. Are you a patient person that can take small steps to reach a goal.
6. Can you accept constructive criticism?
8. Do you log your data and understand the affects of the changes you make?


Car questions....1. Do you have a Scanmaster?
2. Do you have enough fueling and turbo to support 470-500 RWHP?
3. Do you have a sticky tire that is 28 inches in diameter?
4. Do you have a good working trans and converter under full boost?
5. Have you had 60fts in the low 1.60s or 1.50s?
6. Do you plan to use pump gas and methanol, race fuel(C-16) or E85?
7. Do you have a way to adjust timing and fueling with a chip, piggy back or ECU?
8. Have you seen cars weight and combo simular to yours achieve the goal?

This is all my opinion and hope it helps some of you meet your goal.

Dang Had to fix #3

 

[Grumpy]

#3 is a joke to a lot of guys that do all sorts of "stuff" then only runs 15#s of boost Then post a thread that goes on for 10 pages guessing what the car "should" do if he turns up the boost

 

[Goat]

My truck is getting the following:

Scanmaster
tt chip with 60lb injectors
Alky Injection
ta49 ( cause stock one supposedly maxes out at 26 psi)

Now I ask how much different is 26 psi on a 49 compared to a stocker?

 

[GNDriven]

This is for full weight cars, with iron heads, 70mm or smaller turbos, simple suspension mods, and stock or mild long blocks.

If you answer "NO" to any of the following questions you may want to make it a "Yes" before shooting for the 10 Second timeslip.

Questions about the driver/owner....1. Do you know how to operate and interpet the Scanmaster and wideband?
2. Do you know when the car is experiencing knock retard?
3. Are you scared to use more than 25psi and up to 35psi?
4. You are understand and accept that a failed attempt can result in broken parts that can cost thousands of dollars to repair.
5. Are you a patient person that can take small steps to reach a goal.
6. Can you accept constructive criticism?
8. Do you log your data and understand the affects of the changes you make?


Car questions....1. Do you have a Scanmaster?
2. Do you have enough fueling and turbo to support 470-500 RWHP?
3. Do you have a sticky tire that is 28 inches in diameter?
4. Do you have a good working trans and converter under full boost?
5. Have you had 60fts in the low 1.60s or 1.50s?
6. Do you plan to use pump gas and methanol, race fuel(C-16) or E85?
7. Do you have a way to adjust timing and fueling with a chip, piggy back or ECU?
8. Have you seen cars weight and combo simular to yours achieve the goal?

This is all my opinion and hope it helps some of you meet your goal.

You hit this one on the head dude!
Great approach, so many folks want the speed and chest beating rights, but a lot of us (well me) had heart ache first and had to learn lesson the hard way.

 

[1of1547]

Here was my combination. It went a couple of 10.3X with the best of 10.35@131 with a 1.57 60 foot. The only nothing exotic thing was a sequential FAST. You can throw money at one to make it go into the 10s. But if you pick the right parts in the right areas, it doesn't need to expensive. My weak spot was/is the transmission. I don't have the big money for a "good" one. But I daily drove mine, weather permitting, as long as it wasn't broke.

109 block with center steel caps
JE racing .030 pistons
Stock balanced crank, polished stock rods
Johnson Racing big valve ported irons
Anderson Performance roller cam
Home ported intake and plenum, basically gasket matched and polished
Stock 58mm Throttle Body
PT54 turbo 25-26 psi
Stock gasket matched Headers/Crossover
Single Shot Torque Tech with Dynomax Race muffler
3 ½ China downpipe
75# injectors
Aeromotive 1000 pump
Sequential FAST
Turbo 350 transmission
B&M Holeshot 3000
M/T 275/60/15 DRs
Jegster LCA, Summit adjustable shocks, the rest was 1987 stock

All safety stuff was there for a 10 sec car.
6 point MS bar, 6 point harness, Trans shield, DS Loop, Flywheel, metal valve stems, C Clip elims. etc.

 

[SloGN]

ok i'll bite..............

I guess i can add some info here....



My build is kinda pricey for the parts but i did all of the assembly myself on the engine and trans.


gridled 109 block
.020 diamond pistons
stroker crank
k1 rods
Dls roller cam assembly 214/214
Ta alum heads ported
Atr knockoff headers(stocker will work but crack like hell)
3inch THDP
3inch ATR crossflow exhaust
RJC mega cooler
72lb injectors
ported stock intake
stock TB and doghouse
RJC power plate
Fast XFI ecu
1.65 Roller rockers
PTS 9x11 3200 convertor
billet parts in the trans with good clutches and a T-brak

The turbo at the start of the build was a GT6152e I managed to get a 6.76@ 103 1/8 mile. the boost was @ 20 psi till like the last 40 feet of the track and creeped to 22. This didn't net anymore power due to it went rich as hell 10.2 as i'm still creeping up on the tune.

Now i recently i purchased a 67hpq DBB billet turbo. My personal best was acheived @ BG nats in the THS class. I ran a best of 10.77 @ 124 @ 19 psi.

The biggest difference i can tell from the gt6152e turbo to the 67hpq dbb billet turbo is that it has a top-end pull from hell. The 67 also has the bigger .85 turbine housing.


I know this thing is just getting ready to run @ 19 psi.............


The suspension is stock with boxed lower control arms and air bags and a big pinion snubber.

The tires used were 255 50 16 Mickey T drag radials.

My best 60 ft ever was a 1.52 leaving off the T-brak @ 6-7 psi. It dead hooked and it even managed to pull the left front off the ground Even it being a 16 inch gnx wheel with 245 50 16 tire!!!!!

 

[Sal 87WE2]

I would like to nominate Member gn4u2c, he has a very nice build and i will be going almost the same route he went.

Here is a link: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/turbos-turbo-related-parts/321011-6262dbb-billet-3000-9x11.html

 

[Sal 87WE2]

Clipped from his thread:

Last min we decided to hit the track last night, got there around 8:45pm and it was still hot as all balls ! 89* air temp. Made one pass 1.56 60ft off the foot brake,using 255 dr's, 10.76@125 mph, 26psi on 93+alky climbed to 27.5 psi but zero knock on the datalogger. I was a little conservative on the timing, I pulled a degree out from what I was running around with because of the heat. Soon as I came around to the lanes they walked over and asked me to park it LOL..I guess that 13.50 I wrote down on my tech in card was slightly off:biggrin: It was just to hot so rolled home.
All and all I am very happy with the car. I think with better weather, a little more aggressive tune. The few weight reduction parts I have around that need to be installed 10.50's are a real possibility.

 

[TURBO 6]

I went high 10's (on pump gas) a few years back with the following combo:

Stock 60k mile shortblock
212/212 roller cam
Champion iron heads and intake
ported tb
55's with turbo tweak chip and single walbro pump
single nozzle alkycontrol
BB 6776 "S" cover
PTE SLIC
3"THDP w/2.5" ATR cat back
PTC 10" 2800 stall converter

This combo included all the other basic mods that should be done on a TR. To me the most important parts to running 10's easily is the transmission, good tires, heads and a hard launch.
If you're tranny is comprimising on the shifts in any way, not good. You must have a transmission that can stand up to the tuning process. A lagging 2-3 shift will kill ET's.
Heads will make the ET's/MPH come easily. It can be done on stock heads, but more boost will be required.
The car must dead hook on 7-10 psi launches. I had good luck with 275/60 MT drag radials. They hook good, but slicks are way more consistent.

When tuning to run 10's close attention must be paid to the tune. Everything must be in perfect working order. Fuel filter, plugs, fresh oil, ect. Also you must be able to control boost. If you're seeing boost creep, that must be corrected. If not, you don't have control over the tune and you could easily overboost causing damage.
Like Grumpy said, "Things happen fast", and it does. Any knock at all can not be tolerated.

 

[87WE4BOOSTED]

Great info guys!! I'm over here like a sponge soaking all this good info up. Threads like these and the people that post in them are the ones I pay close attention too. Hell, I even went as far as coping Grumpy’s (Melissa’s) combo and put my little twist on it. The elusive 10 sec time slip is what I'm after and by goosh the info is here to achieve it. Thanks guys for sharing.

 

[jdsgnx]

Read sig!!!

thanks JD

 

[Steve]

I have had a couple of different 10 second car but the most basic was an 86 T-Type that went 10.80's @ 128mph consistantly and stayed together for at least 5 years running 10's. All runs were on DR's with 60' times around 1.65(out local track sucks on prep!) The car saw a ton of street time and was a blast. I ran a 1000rwhp Supra with it one night on the street and beat it twice in a row and all of the ricers were stunned!:biggrin:

rebuilt shortblock
20/20 stock crank
stock rods with ARP rop bolts
stock pistons(with 155K on them!)
two center steel mains
ported irons with stock valves(ported by guy that put shortblock together)
unported stock intake with stock TB and stock MAF
340 pump and AFPR
60 pound injectors
race chip
110 octane fuel
Vigilante converter 3400
rebuilt trans(bought from a wrecked car, unknown what was inside)
pair of 275/60 DR's
THDP
CAS V2 intercooler

 

[sykegn]

I have had a couple of different 10 second car but the most basic was an 86 T-Type that went 10.80's @ 128mph consistantly and stayed together for at least 5 years running 10's. All runs were on DR's with 60' times around 1.65(out local track sucks on prep!) The car saw a ton of street time and was a blast. I ran a 1000rwhp Supra with it one night on the street and beat it twice in a row and all of the ricers were stunned!:biggrin:

rebuilt shortblock
20/20 stock crank
stock rods with ARP rop bolts
stock pistons(with 155K on them!)
two center steel mains
ported irons with stock valves(ported by guy that put shortblock together)
unported stock intake with stock TB and stock MAF
340 pump and AFPR
60 pound injectors
race chip
110 octane fuel
Vigilante converter 3400
rebuilt trans(bought from a wrecked car, unknown what was inside)
pair of 275/60 DR's
THDP
CAS V2 intercooler

you didn't run a turbo on this car?

 

[GARY HARVEY]

RedC5's on track, get what you have to hook

Biggest improvement... was getting it to hook up.
3.70/3.90 helped w/opening up the exhaust
Good sway-bar w/upper & lowers, springs & shocks
Tires & tighten up drive line thru the converter
Add a chip to the mix w/C16 on a cool day, hang on & enjoy the ride because you'll have to do all this with engine mods (anyway).