Alaskabuick
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Anyone have this handy?
thanks!
Den
thanks!
Den
comp 212/212 Hyd roller specs?
- Thread starter Alaskabuick
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There are at least 3 grinds of the 212 that comp offers. If you call the tech line they will be able to give you the exact info. Their tech line is a joke at times though. What are your goals? Id only use the 212 if my goals were to run low 10's over 130mph in the quarter and had a really good torque converter otherwise you are better off smaller.
Alaskabuick
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Grind
wow, that must of been the quickest response I have ever got here.
Thanks Bison.
I dont know wich I have? Bought the car with it in already. Build back in 05 my Nick Mchale.
So maybe the time frame will tell you somthing.
By the way I enjoy reading your posts here.
Dennis
wow, that must of been the quickest response I have ever got here.
Thanks Bison.
I dont know wich I have? Bought the car with it in already. Build back in 05 my Nick Mchale.
So maybe the time frame will tell you somthing.
By the way I enjoy reading your posts here.
Dennis
Alaskabuick
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Yep
That be the one!
That be the one!
Is the cam out of the engine?
I was going to ask this too...
That was the only way I was able to ID my 214/214 hyd roller.
I couldn't find any info on CC's website... so I had to call them. The guy told me it was a special grind and wasn't available "off the shelf". He then emailed me the cam card for it.
Without pulling the cam and looking at the numbers... I never would have known the specs on it without alot of complicated math, dial indicator and a degree wheel.
Alaskabuick
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Cam
No cam is in car with heads off, I will check lift on cam.
I am also swapping out the valve springs, I had bee hives and
Car has never run right. Sympoms were identical to the issues
Youlose was having. I followed your thread.
No cam is in car with heads off, I will check lift on cam.
I am also swapping out the valve springs, I had bee hives and
Car has never run right. Sympoms were identical to the issues
Youlose was having. I followed your thread.
Well... I'm putting beehives back on mine... just not the 26918's. My car has dual springs on it now.
I ordered the 26120's for my car... since I think it's floating valves at 6000 now, instead of 5200.
The 26120 beehives are substantially stronger than the 918's.
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- May 26, 2001
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We built this engine in March, 2004, and I do have the cam card. 
If you want the info, e-mail me direct.
If you want the info, e-mail me direct.
Alaskabuick
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Thank
I gues I should of thought of that Nick...
Ill email you or you can send to: dswarthout@alutiiq.com
thanks again,
Dennis
I gues I should of thought of that Nick...
Ill email you or you can send to: dswarthout@alutiiq.com
thanks again,
Dennis
What part # and installed height? I dont see the 26918 being anywhere near a problem on a 212 cam.
And wont work on stock heads without a lot of mods to to seat the springs.
Yeah, I didn't even think of that...
I suppose the 918's would be fine with his cam as long as it doesn't have a ton of lift like the oddball in my car.
Good for anything that is going under 140mph in the quarter but may have a short life in some instances.Yeah, I didn't even think of that...
I suppose the 918's would be fine with his cam as long as it doesn't have a ton of lift like the oddball in my car.
Alaskabuick
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If I remember right the installed H was 1.75 approx.
Going thru the heads tomorrow and will verify all info for evaluation. I will also test open and closed pressures.
Going thru the heads tomorrow and will verify all info for evaluation. I will also test open and closed pressures.
Alaskabuick
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Test results
Got the Beehive springs off.
Closed pressure at 1.75 installed Height #140
Open pressure w/cam lift of .488 = #280
.120 away from coil bind
Two seats were cracked as well as other tell tale signs of valve float according to my head guy. Tops of valve seals showed signs of float, etc.
Additionally I had two blown head gaskets. Each bank had two cylinders that the gasket was blown in between. This is wy I pulled the heads, it was going to be a simple spring swap until we aired up on cylinder and then air cam out the spark plug hole of the cylinder next to it. The gasket was still in tack (cometic) but could see where it was passing compresion from cylinder to cylinder.
This car has never reved or run right at high rpms. Normal driving was fine and it ran smooth.
New set of valve springs going in, Tom at Champion sent these to me.
Kmotion springs
installed H of 1.710 closed pressure of #140
Open pressure at .488 lift #400
These cars will fool you as fast as they can be even not running right. This car even despite the issues still could trap at 124mph on the street with my G meter. A amature like myself would be impressed with that and think, wow this car really hauls a$$!
But I have always felt something was just never quite right.
I have learned alot from this.
I hope we get it right once and for all.
Any input is well taken.
Do you guys think I am on the right track.
Dennis
Got the Beehive springs off.
Closed pressure at 1.75 installed Height #140
Open pressure w/cam lift of .488 = #280
.120 away from coil bind
Two seats were cracked as well as other tell tale signs of valve float according to my head guy. Tops of valve seals showed signs of float, etc.
Additionally I had two blown head gaskets. Each bank had two cylinders that the gasket was blown in between. This is wy I pulled the heads, it was going to be a simple spring swap until we aired up on cylinder and then air cam out the spark plug hole of the cylinder next to it. The gasket was still in tack (cometic) but could see where it was passing compresion from cylinder to cylinder.
This car has never reved or run right at high rpms. Normal driving was fine and it ran smooth.
New set of valve springs going in, Tom at Champion sent these to me.
Kmotion springs
installed H of 1.710 closed pressure of #140
Open pressure at .488 lift #400
These cars will fool you as fast as they can be even not running right. This car even despite the issues still could trap at 124mph on the street with my G meter. A amature like myself would be impressed with that and think, wow this car really hauls a$$!
But I have always felt something was just never quite right.
I have learned alot from this.
I hope we get it right once and for all.
Any input is well taken.
Do you guys think I am on the right track.
Dennis
Alaskabuick
Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2004
- Messages
- 699
shim
Bison,
so your saying to shim more to get more out of the sping for additional open and closed pressure?
Is their a point where I could have too much pressure for the comp 885 roller lifters?
is that a dumb question?
thanks,
Den
Bison,
so your saying to shim more to get more out of the sping for additional open and closed pressure?
Is their a point where I could have too much pressure for the comp 885 roller lifters?
is that a dumb question? thanks,
Den
Bison,
so your saying to shim more to get more out of the sping for additional open and closed pressure?
Is their a point where I could have too much pressure for the comp 885 roller lifters?
thanks,
Den
I would shim to 1.700. Those springs are really good as long as your not working them real hard. I just tested a set of the comp 941's that are about 4 years old and lots of time over 5500 and probably 15k miles and they were still good. Check the post in the wont rev over 5200 thread. I think i mentioned the pressures. You should be fine with the pressures you mentioned and the 1.700.
