Comp cams roller lifter noise

[turbobitt]

Well, I believe turbo bitt at least has a good explanation and he may be right. But, I am like the others about the lifters being in contact with the cam at all times and should not be making the ticking noise.I once had a small block chevy with a roller setup with a bigger cam in it than in my GN and it did not make the noises that my car does now. So, turbo bitt, tell me why? Keep the thread going!!

Most of my experience has been with mech rollers. Talking with other engine builders , Specifically Mopar Hemi's , it seems that people are afraid of going to large on the springs. This may explain if the noise is due to a no-follow. All things being equal, hyd. lifters are the heaviest of the four types(solid,hyd,solid roller, hyd. roller). Wouldn't you think the demand on the valve spring be more ? Again, this is a critical ballancing act. The lifter bleed down rate and the spring pressure must live in friendly harmony. Again, my personal thought is that a OEM hyd lifter probably has a much slower bleed down and as a result, less desirable in performance applications but much quieter in street applications.
Allan G.

 

[InHock]

Well I hope your last post will answer some of the questions everyone has asked. When I ordered my champion heads I had chosen a cam I wanted to run, then after I found out my turbo was shot I changed the camshaft to a different one [to work the best with the new turbo I bought] and called tom at champion and he assured me the valve springs would be the correct ones for the cam I had chosen. I would think that champion would know which springs to use with the lifters and cam. I guess the noise that some of us have in or motors is just going to be there no matter what,and the few other guys who have no noise have gotten lucky!!!!

 

[turbobitt]

Well I hope your last post will answer some of the questions everyone has asked. When I ordered my champion heads I had chosen a cam I wanted to run, then after I found out my turbo was shot I changed the camshaft to a different one [to work the best with the new turbo I bought] and called tom at champion and he assured me the valve springs would be the correct ones for the cam I had chosen. I would think that champion would know which springs to use with the lifters and cam. I guess the noise that some of us have in or motors is just going to be there no matter what,and the few other guys who have no noise have gotten lucky!!!!

I wouldn't bet on champions recomendations. Steep ramp profiles and heavy components require more spring then flat tappet cams at the same lift. My good friend Bison(Brian) had issues in the past. Maybe he can chime in since he knows is stuff beter then I do.
Allan G.

 

[bison]

Well I hope your last post will answer some of the questions everyone has asked. When I ordered my champion heads I had chosen a cam I wanted to run, then after I found out my turbo was shot I changed the camshaft to a different one [to work the best with the new turbo I bought] and called tom at champion and he assured me the valve springs would be the correct ones for the cam I had chosen. I would think that champion would know which springs to use with the lifters and cam. I guess the noise that some of us have in or motors is just going to be there no matter what,and the few other guys who have no noise have gotten lucky!!!!

What lobes, springs, boost, and approx. hp are you running? Is it a 3 bolt turbo? No one can spec springs without that info. Most engines are under springed. I have posted a lot about this in the last 3 months. I run comp 885's at nearly zero pre-load. Minimal noise till after a pass. I can hear the lash from the expansion of the heads.

 

[SPOOLFOOL2]

A few thoughts.

Many of the qualified people that I've asked, believe that the ticking or clicking on Hyd rollers, comes from loose tolerances. This makes perfect sense to me. One of the areas that I'm suspicious of is the lifter to bore. As the lifter is rolling over the nose of the lobe, and is side loaded from one side of the bore to the other, at the point of heaviest spring pressure. A roller lifter will side load more while going up and down the lobe than a flat tappet. More aggressive lobe ramps and valve springs are also used on rollers. A lifter to bore tolerance that worked fine on a flat tappet cam with a 80 lbs valve spring, "may" not cut the mustard with a high performance roller set up and double the spring pressure.

One other place of suspicion is the sloppy link bars.

Just my 2 cents.

Mike Barnard

 

[UR50SLO]

I was talking to MRoller about this and he seemed to think it was poor machiene work on the lifters. He's got a way to check them before you install.
All mine were good somehow and my valve train is very quiet.
I got lucky for sure!
~Scott

 

[turbobitt]

Many of the qualified people that I've asked, believe that the ticking or clicking on Hyd rollers, comes from loose tolerances. This makes perfect sense to me. One of the areas that I'm suspicious of is the lifter to bore. As the lifter is rolling over the nose of the lobe, and is side loaded from one side of the bore to the other, at the point of heaviest spring pressure. A roller lifter will side load more while going up and down the lobe than a flat tappet. More aggressive lobe ramps and valve springs are also used on rollers. A lifter to bore tolerance that worked fine on a flat tappet cam with a 80 lbs valve spring, "may" not cut the mustard with a high performance roller set up and double the spring pressure.

One other place of suspicion is the sloppy link bars.

Just my 2 cents.

Mike Barnard

The lifter machining tolerences need to be held tight on the internal punger to achieve a predictable bleed down and hydraulic lock. Those are the most important ones for noise and functionality. I herd of this also but no related to Turbo Buick stuff but on Mopar big block/Hemi stuff.
Allan G.

 

[Turbo1dr]

Some camshafts don't have the oil groove cut into the first journal where oil pressure feeds over to the drivers side lifters. If you have a cam without the groove then you have cut half of the oil supply off to the drivers side lifters. I can't prove that this causes lifter noise at idle but it certainly can't help either.