Complete Engine Build step by step

KWIKR 1 said:
Razor , with those clearances was the crank ground on the "high side limit" ? thanks .

I only use un-ground STD STD cranks from junk yard finds that just need polishing :)

When using ground cranks.. take your measurments and have the shop grinding the crank know what your doing.

Takes patience to build an engine. And it is either rite or it isnt.

Easy to throw stuff in and go..Hard part is catching a machine shops mistake in the process when its not obvious. And dont push a shop to have your engine ready by X time or else.. :redface:
 
87we410877 said:
I was going to do that but im already having eneough problems and i dont need to F it up after i have this much $ into it. So, i'll leave it to the pros. Engine should be back next week.

If the same shop that line-honed is doing the assembly.. you better start asking questions like why did the crank not spin? And why did they do a line hone knowing the crank wouldnt spin?
 
I am assembling the motor. The shop doing to "fix" is not the same who line honed it. I wouldnt take it back there. And believe me im not pushing them hahah. Its been in the shop since may. Thanks guys. Herd some more good stuff about you at a local show today Razor!! ;)
 
87we410877 said:
Herd some more good stuff about you at a local show today Razor!! ;)

Dont believe a word they told ya.. wasnt me.. wasnt me :D
 
Good timing on this thread. I'm starting on my assembly this weekend. :biggrin:
 
Got the crank in today. No problems. Clearances .0010-.0015 :) One question, I used the felpro rear seal. Do I need to use any sealant where cap meets block? Between side seal and crank seal.
 

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Me been playing too :D

Yes.. you need to use the "Right Stuff" and also squirt it in the holes of the rear cap until it oozes out the front and back of the cap.
 

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Forgot to mention...

I hired a custom painter to help ;) Gotta keep em busy :)

The oil pan is so it clears the x-member on the TTA
 
Lee Thompson said:
Are those the new clear freeze plug I heard about?

Yup.. those are the same ones my machine shop didnt install :redface:

Has some weird black cam bearings in it too.. cant remember where those came from :rolleyes: :D
 
My book says .0003-.0018 on the mains, so I'm on the loose side. Polished crank with standard bearings. Turns nice with a faint sucking sound from the lube. :)
 
Got the rods and pistons in. No problems so far. :)
 

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was that block not decked? they are ALWAYS OFF, a bhj block true deck plate will show this, we use it on all our stuff.
 
jhef83 said:
My book says .0003-.0018 on the mains, so I'm on the loose side. Polished crank with standard bearings. Turns nice with a faint sucking sound from the lube. :)

+1 on the book.. .0003 :eek:
 
Chiltons book. Whats the +1 :eek: all about? Heres a pic of the book. Sorry for the blurry pic. Hope nobody goes crosseyed. :)
 

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razor

hey razor i see the sludge hammer in the back ground. i guess ever buick owner has one when his car makes him mad. :biggrin:
 
blown okie said:
was that block not decked? they are ALWAYS OFF, a bhj block true deck plate will show this, we use it on all our stuff.
Sorry tight budget. Fresh rings, bearings, cam, lifters, and timing set.
 
Razor said:
.0013 is too tight. .0025 is too loose. Better check that line hone :redface:

Usually I'll look at the bearing and the way it scuffs when spun on oil for high/low spots.

I use the "Right Stuff" RTV and do a double bead. One inside pan rail, one outside panrail. No leaks. I use it on the rear main as well. make sure you install rear main seal properly and not flipped. Leave the block girdle up and let it dry. If you flip it over before the RTV dries.. and any oil hits the RTV.. you will be the proud owner of the exxon Valdez.

For TQ.. work inner to outer. Crank better spin nice and easy when you TQ it all down.. the slightest resistance.. its gotta come back apart.

Also make sure your crank is within tolerance.. some can be off a few .0001 and catch bearings.. The spin test in block will show any issue.

HTH
Ok, I checked 2 Chiltons and 1 Haynes book. They all say .0003-.0018 on the mains. I should be well within tolerances. I spun the crank and looked at the bearings, they look fine.
 
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