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Condensation in my oil, is this normal? Update 05/21/2015 Found a problem

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Houston we have a problem!!!!!!!!!

I've been keeping pressure on the cooling system all day. Pull the dipstick just now and it ain't good!

On a positive note I'm glad the gasket failed like this instead of when I was driving the car.

Going to pull the intake this week and start there, it's either intake or head gasket.

Went from this



To this

 
I'm actually in a decent mood about it. I knew something was up and I was tired of not getting to the bottom of it.

I had a hell of a time getting the intake to fit right so I suspect thats the problem. The motor had a stock steal intake gasket when I tore it apart and I went to a thicker style that Husek uses. I'm going back to the thinner gasket so the intake will line up better.

I'm also glad this didn't happen when the motor was running.

I'll be surprised if it's not the intake gasket.
 
If it's the intake gasket, there's no need to pull the engine.

Pop off the coil pack, ign module, fuel lines, and unplug the electricals and throttle cables.... 10 bolts later, you can lift it off in one big chunk.


Did you put any sealing jizz around the water ports when you assembled the engine? They like to pit in those areas.

You might even be able to put the car right back together that same night if that's the case.
 
I'm actually in a decent mood about it. I knew something was up and I was tired of not getting to the bottom of it.

I had a hell of a time getting the intake to fit right so I suspect thats the problem. The motor had a stock steal intake gasket when I tore it apart and I went to a thicker style that Husek uses. I'm going back to the thinner gasket so the intake will line up better.

I'm also glad this didn't happen when the motor was running.

I'll be surprised if it's not the intake gasket.
When you put the intake on you gotta make sure it sits even side to side. Front and back is one thing, but also has to sit even distance between both heads. The bolts might go in a hair rough at first but then should fit fine. And you should use the fel pro paper covered intake gasket. The thin sheet metal gasket will give you vacuum leaks unless you goop it like the factory. They didnt put it on dry.
 
If it's the intake gasket, there's no need to pull the engine.

Pop off the coil pack, ign module, fuel lines, and unplug the electricals and throttle cables.... 10 bolts later, you can lift it off in one big chunk.


Did you put any sealing jizz around the water ports when you assembled the engine? They like to pit in those areas.

You might even be able to put the car right back together that same night if that's the case.

I used sealant around the water ports. Just in case I might tear the intake gasket when pulling the intake I'm going to drain the block and rad of coolant quick. Then fit a radiator cap with a fitting to pressure the system on a regulator at 15 psi. That way I can hear the leak and know for sure it's the manifold before I pull it. I don't want to destroy evidence on a failed gasket and not know for sure. If there's no smoking gun then I'm going down town to the top of the pistons pulling the heads. Don't want to be in that position if I don't have to. I'm 99% sure it's the intake but I need to be 100% My buddy Rich suggested doing this and I'm all in on the idea.

When you put the intake on you gotta make sure it sits even side to side. Front and back is one thing, but also has to sit even distance between both heads. The bolts might go in a hair rough at first but then should fit fine. And you should use the fel pro paper covered intake gasket. The thin sheet metal gasket will give you vacuum leaks unless you goop it like the factory. They didnt put it on dry.

We had a hell of a time getting the intake on this motor. We did it on the stand. Like I said the old motor had metal gasket which is thinner than what I used. There was NO way you were getting the manifold bolts started. My engine builder decided to drill out the manifold bolt holes a bit so I could get bolts started rather than taking any material off the manifold. Without the gasket the manifold mated perfect. I'm figuring going back to the metal gasket will help seat the intake better. Plus it's more challenging now that I have to lean over a fender the line things up. Husek is sending me the metal gasket today and I'll get the Felpro down the street so I have both here when it's time to put it back together. Might as well compare them and see what I like better.
 
We had a hell of a time getting the intake on this motor. We did it on the stand. Like I said the old motor had metal gasket which is thinner than what I used. There was NO way you were getting the manifold bolts started. My engine builder decided to drill out the manifold bolt holes a bit so I could get bolts started rather than taking any material off the manifold. Without the gasket the manifold mated perfect. I'm figuring going back to the metal gasket will help seat the intake better. Plus it's more challenging now that I have to lean over a fender the line things up. Husek is sending me the metal gasket today and I'll get the Felpro down the street so I have both here when it's time to put it back together. Might as well compare them and see what I like better.


Well drilling out those bolts holes won't help. What were you using to go across the rim in the front and back of motor. If you used those rubber strips, then try without. My intake went back fine before i mangled it with the thicker gaskets.
 
Don't think your going to find anything by pulling the intake. The evidence (gasket) would be destroyed once you pry the intake up if it was put on properly to begin with. It might fuse to either the head or the intake (possibly both). It would suck to go through all of that time and effort and find out you still have a problem. Tear it all down and relieve yourself of any doubt or further aggravation. Peace of mind imo is much more satisfying then rolling the dice in hopes of a quick fix. Good luck, let us know what you find. If you do decide to pull the heads, I always use a little bit of the Rightstuff on my headstuds when I put them back in the block. 109 motors have these studs going into the cooling system so it's just added insurance.
 
Did you use the rubber gaskets on the front and back of the manifold? My manifold would not sit down with them. Same issue with the bolts. Causes vacuum leaks. Used RTV and all's good now.
 
Don't think your going to find anything by pulling the intake. The evidence (gasket) would be destroyed once you pry the intake up if it was put on properly to begin with. It might fuse to either the head or the intake (possibly both). It would suck to go through all of that time and effort and find out you still have a problem. Tear it all down and relieve yourself of any doubt or further aggravation. Peace of mind imo is much more satisfying then rolling the dice in hopes of a quick fix. Good luck, let us know what you find. If you do decide to pull the heads, I always use a little bit of the Rightstuff on my headstuds when I put them back in the block. 109 motors have these studs going into the cooling system so it's just added insurance.

I hate good advice sometimes.:(;)

I did not use the rubber end caps just silicone. Had them in there the first time and they pushed out in the corners when the intake was TQ'd Not enough room. Blocks been decked twice that I know of.
 
Sounds like your intake needed machining. Keep in mind, the bolts don't pull straight down when torquing, the try to ''stretch'' the intake to reach the heads. Go ahead and pop the intake off, if the gasket is leaking around the water ports, they'll be a witness mark left behind.

If you're still not satisfied after pulling it, fabbing up 4 plates to cover the coolant holes in the head is pretty easy. Stick a tire valve on one, and shoot air in it.
 
Sounds like your intake needed machining. Keep in mind, the bolts don't pull straight down when torquing, the try to ''stretch'' the intake to reach the heads. Go ahead and pop the intake off, if the gasket is leaking around the water ports, they'll be a witness mark left behind.

If you're still not satisfied after pulling it, fabbing up 4 plates to cover the coolant holes in the head is pretty easy. Stick a tire valve on one, and shoot air in it.

Another buddy of mine called this morning, he's the head maintenance guy for the State road department so he has some cool tools. He loaned me a tool that hooks on the radiator and you just hook up air pressure and set the regulator. Did that just now and my other friend Rich stopped buy with some bionic ear muffs with a microphone and meter. You could hear a fly fart with these things. Anyway there's air leaking in to the engine. I had the PCV valve out and air's coming out there, dipstick and valve covers. The valve covers where the loudest at the breathers. Could just be an echo type of deal but when we plugged those 3 holes the best we could it sounded like the air was coming out the back of the intake. That makes sense because I had coolant dripping down the back of the motor last night. Not much, maybe baseball size spot on the floor. This tells me my silicone at the back of the intake is holding but coolant is squeezing between the intake and head out the back door. I'm going to pull the valve covers tonight so I can get a better look as well as the coil.

Funny you say that Earl because my buddy with the cool tools suggested making block off plates and pressuring the head gaskets. I'm also going to drop the pan and check a few bearings. I think I'm fine but now's the time to head off a major problem later.

If all goes well I can have my car healthy in time to put it away for the winter. It's going to a long winter this year. I never got my fix at the track nor did I get my car up on any amount of boost to see what a stroker's supposed to run like.
 
If all goes well I can have my car healthy in time to put it away for the winter. It's going to a long winter this year. I never got my fix at the track nor did I get my car up on any amount of boost to see what a stroker's supposed to run like.
I know what that's like.:inpain:
 
Me too. I still haven't installed my H4 kit my Razor's kit, my vac brake converion, alarm with remote start (and window module), remove the dash, and invent a ''whole car hotwire kit'', before winter.... lol
 
Pulled the intake tonight. Looks like it was leaking at the passenger front. There was moisture around the gasket there at the head and none of the others. There was coolant sitting in the block up by the lifters and none at the rear of the block. I took some pictures that I'll post tomorrow. I didn't see any failure in the gasket, no cracks, no signs of it being unseated or deformed etc. I pulled the thermo and dried up as much coolant as I could with paper towels before I pulled it so I didn't spill any. There was more in the front of the valley of the engine than could have spilled so I'm confident that's where the pressure blew the coolant. I also drained the block of coolant.

Now to show you guys I'm a good sport I'll tell you a funny story. I have no ego when it comes to wrenching and I always try and leave my vanity at the door.

Here it goes. We pressured the cooling system this morning and heard all kinds of air leaking at the intake etc. This is in my man cave at the dealership in the back shop. My buddy Rich left and I went back to my real job running the dealership. I guess I left the valve open on the tester and the air compressor must have been full of air. I go back to the man cave at 5:30 pm ish (6 hours later) and put the car in the air and grabbed my wrench to take the coolant plug out of the block. Had a little music playing, cracked a beer, swept the floor, cleaned all the work benches and organized myself to pull the intake. Shop looked awesome and the floor is spotless. Grab a few tools and rolled them over to the car on the tool cart and life is good. I love shop time by myself. Cracked that plug a few turns and that sum bitch flew out the motor at 70 mph with a gallon of coolant and kept coming because I had all kinds of air left in the compressor tank. I'm helpless because the cars in the air, can't shut the valve off so I just stand and watch, can't see for sh&t cause I got coolant in my eyes running down my face but it was quite the deal.:) Cleaned up and grabbed another beer.

Now back to serious business.;)

I am going to build some steel plates to block the coolant passages in the heads and check for head gasket issues. Earl or anyone who might know, how much pressure should I put to it? I guess 20 psi would do it if the leak was in the head gaskets since that's all it took today to have air leaks but how far can I go with air pressure until I give up if no air leaks?

Second thing I'm going to do to put my mind at ease is pull the pan and check a few bearings.

Once I get this thing back together or maybe before what do I want to do to flush the coolant out? In the past after changing intakes I just did a couple of oil changes right away but maybe there's something bigger and better that I can do? The motor wasn't running when the coolant ran in the crankcase. However I found more white goo under the intake and at the back of the block in the lifter valley which I expected.

Any advice at this point would be appreciated.
 
20's if fine. It's more than the system sees in real life, but not so high that it will blow things apart.

then again, I've been drinking and have a double D 20yo about to walk in the door.... got to go :)
 
I flushed a crankcase out with diesel once. It's fuel oil so it left an oily residue. For something I cared about I would do a couple of oil changes draining the filter afterward if you are going to simply be idling it and circulating the fresh oil.

When I had a governor problem, I dropped the pan several times, straining the fluid and reusing it. Never had any trouble there.

Just be conscientious.
 
Will just do a couple quick oil changes and clean up the best I can. I dropped the pan this morning and going to check a couple bearings here shortly.
 
Use kerosene and flush down from the top.... It's also an oil, just a lighter one... If there's any residue left, it will mix easier with with the regular oil so it gets removed when you change it... Run a heavier weight for the first change or two.. 20-50 would be my choice...

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