Condensation in my oil, is this normal? Update 05/21/2015 Found a problem

Fretting on the main cap is quite common on a stock block that has been making some power. That looks pretty minor in my opinion.
 
Still no answer on the block. Hopefully soon.

Quick question, if I need a block how easy are they to find? Are there any other cars that used the same block or is it something exclusive to the TB?
 
Blocks are nothing special. The only difference between a TR and a plain ole Bruick V6 is the oil drain hole being tapped.
 
Got some good news today, my block is going to work. Doug would have liked a few things to be better but he said it's within factory spec.

He is honing the cylinders and putting it back together.

I'm ordering a few parts today. I'm going with the Cometic oil pan gasket and rear main seal. Felpro timing cover gaskets and intake gasket with EGR delete.

Doug is re ringing the pistons with Childs and Alberts rings. He has used them for years and that's what's in my Cuda with no issues.

Once he has is mocked up we need to deal with the rocker arm situation. I now have the TA heads so my Harland rockers made need to go. I discussed this with Doug and wants to mock things up before I do anything.

I also need a new timing chain, mine was junk after 1200 miles. It was supposed to be the better chain that Nick runs. Not sure what happened there? It fit the motor real nice and I had a buddy of mine who built my 474 help me install it. I trust his judgment so I know it was the right chain for my application at 10 under. I did have a lot of cylinder pressure so maybe that strained the chain too much??

I'm going to update a few things while I'm at it, plug wires, choose a little wiser in the spark plug department. Doug said my heat range was a little to hot in the old motor. Basically we're going to take a look at everything. I'm reading up on the cam sensor install procedure, I have the Casper's tool which I used to set the sensor per the directions. Car ran good but I wonder if dialing it in better might be wiser than just using that tool? I'll be getting the stock style actuator from LE to control boost better under 18 psi where this car will run. Should make good power in the 15 to 18 psi range.

Doug is also looking at spring pressure real hard. The springs in the TA heads aren't what he wants. Husek confirms we need more pressure. Cross that bridge when we get there.

I'll probably be making some changes in the tuning department. I'm leaning toward speed density. Doug likes the FAST set up. I like it too but just seems way over the top for my purpose. Street car and track time maybe 3 times a year. However I do like the idea of setting AFR parameters and let the computer do it's job. Just feel a little more secure that way. I spoke with Eric on his forum and I'm going to fire the car with the 5.7 and get some shake down miles then make the change.

We are deciding between 8.5 and 8.8 compression. No set decision on which head gasket either. Probably be Cometic or Fel Pro. I want a good gasket but like the idea of a fuse in case of a problem. I'll be using studs on the heads this time instead of bolts.

That's really it for now. Any suggestions for me in the mean time is always welcome.
 
Compression, if it were me ( only me ) I would stay with 8.5. If only going to the track two - three times a year. 8.8 or higher will mean keeping on top of things even more. More compression more boom. Unless your trying to squeeze every last bit of HP, what would be the point. Just saying
 
I remember reading a post you wrote a while back dealing with getting enough heat in the motor with aluminum heads. I'm going to find that thread and go over it again.
 
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I have some 3 and 4 inch pipe we can fab when you go SD. Im doing a 4'' right now for my car.
Your also gonna need some suspension and tires to hook that beast on the street. We can talk more about that when you get here tho.
 
When I set up my new CAI I planned for the SD2. I should have enough 4" flex tube to stretch to the MAF pipe and call it a day. I'll be 3.5" in to the turbo though. My IAT is located down on the air cleaner housing in front of the radiator support so I have enough length to take it to the up pipe. So I'm pretty much ready for the SD after some shake down miles.

My rear suspension has the HR lower's and sway bar. I believe my uppers are stock?? Came on the car. I also have bags with new stock springs and yes it will be a challenge to hook this on the street. I have Nitto DR's and I know they're not as good at the MT's but they are the only option I have to run the 15x10 stock style wheel and clear the quarters with no air in the bags or passengers.

I'll make a trip over once I get things lined out.
 
I remember reading a post you wrote a while back dealing with getting enough heat in the motor with aluminum heads. I'm going to find that thread and go over it again.

I'd like to find that too :D

The reason I said that is because of the thermal conductivity of aluminum. Heat is what turns the crank that turns the tires. On a Otto cycle engine the heat from combustion does 3 things. It heats the exhaust, it heats the water jackets, and what ever's left pushes the piston down.

With a given octane you can only have so much cylinder pressure in the combustion chamber before the A/F lights off on it's own (preignition). When you switch to alum heads, more heat energy gets transferred to the water jacket, leaving less for the exhaust and tires.

On a turbo engine that means you can turn the boost up and try to reclaim a little bit more of the wasted exhaust energy..... OR you can do it right., account for the thermal drain, and raise the static compression about a point or so.

Personally I like at least 9:1 with iron heads, so with alum I'd be knocking on 10:1 (ESP if I had a wide ass intake lobe that bled off a bunch of cylinder pressure)
 
Getting closer to getting my motor back. It's mocked up right now mainly to make sure the intake is going to work with the new heads. We cut it down trying to make it fit on the old iron heads that were shaved quite a bit. Doug say's it fits perfect which is a relief.

Now on to the rockers. Some say the HS rockers I have will work with the TA heads with some spacing so Doug is going to take a look and see what he thinks. Otherwise I'll just get the offset rockers from TA and sell my other ones.

I'm hoping to have the motor back and in the car some time around the end of the month.





 
Still need valve springs, push rods and figure out geometry on the valve train but it should go fairly quick now. I'll be over as soon as I get some shake down miles on it so we can play with the SD2.
 
Getting closer to getting my motor back. It's mocked up right now mainly to make sure the intake is going to work with the new heads. We cut it down trying to make it fit on the old iron heads that were shaved quite a bit. Doug say's it fits perfect which is a relief.

Now on to the rockers. Some say the HS rockers I have will work with the TA heads with some spacing so Doug is going to take a look and see what he thinks. Otherwise I'll just get the offset rockers from TA and sell my other ones.

I'm hoping to have the motor back and in the car some time around the end of the month.





I was going to use an older set of T&Ds on my TA heads, re-spacing is not a big problem.... But when I checked the geometry the old T&Ds did not have the same travel on the adjustment screw and left me with a almost non adjustable valve train with the proper length push rod. I sold the old T&Ds and got a new set from TA Perf they worked perfect !!
 
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IMG_0333.JPG Photo...............assembled in the living room!
 
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