Cost of rebuilding 109's??

[sackracing]

If you spend 10K on the 109, plan on spending another 10K in supporting mods at least...

I concur

 

[Grumpy]

I concur

just the nature of the beast

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

i did my long block for under $5K No caps, OE crank, OE rods, forged pistons, billet roller cam and lightly touched up heads.
the supporting mods are another story.

i am planning on doing a beater short block with all the stock junk and the target is $1000.00 or less for parts and machining.
Wish me luck
and good luck to you.

 

[Dreamn4GN]

Thanks fellas.. i dont even have a car yet, but Id like to figure out what way I wanna go, Start gathering parts here and their and etc thats all

 

[Phoneguy]

I concur

AND STILL break stuff...


Bryan

 

[1987T]

WOW! All I can say I had a 129,000 mile T-Type stock block stock rods stock heads 206 cam and crappie hot oil pressure around 6psi at idle. It came up under load to around 35psi. I ran 110 Pump Lead gas and sprayed a small amount of alky an 29 psi of boost on the gauge. Thing went 10.98 at 124 mph. Did it over and over and over I had 0 knock if it knocked I got out of it. Lost many a street race to knock. But the thing just kept going! I called it my little grenade lol. I now have a 36,000 mile unopened T-Type that will be in the 10's come spring. the trick is the tune and NO KNOCK EVER! I watch the scan master and always stay a little on the rich side of the tune. I didnt have a Wide band in my old car but we guess that it was around 11-1 or there about based on the Scan master readings. This was off a foot brake I did make one pass off a Stage right T-brake and went 10.84 at 125 mph. The real trick was spending the cash to get the rear set up launch straight and true. Its the total combo of the car not just the power. I should add the car was a bit lighter than most as it had the a/c pulled a Glass hood and front bumper all the sound deadener was taken out and any thing else that was not needed was also removed. It did have a basic alpine in dash CD player.
Low 11's is no issue even with an old high mile T6 motor Just get the tune right and dont go balls to the wall with out some tuning time work your way up. Get the car hooking good those are the mods that took my times down the fastest. I was told do to the stock heads and small cam I had the TE45a I was running was wrong for my set up. I never got any faster even with more boost. With all the new turbos out now Im quite sure 10's are cake just pick wisely

Just my .02 there are a few vids of my car floating around Ill try to find one and post it up.

 

[Razor]

If you want a motor to make power at low boost.. look at the TSM recipe's. But understand the power is in the heads and cam. This is where the money goes.. engine wise.

For mid 11's the tranny will need to be freshened, the converter replaced, Posi??, suspension needs gone through.. brakes, etc.. You can build a nice piece for less than 10K.. but the supporting mods(heads, turbo, IC, fuel system) is where its going to get you. I've run mid 10's at 132 on a stock block, crank, rods, pistons, etc. Cam and heads at 28 PSI.

To run mid 11's on lets say 16 PSI.. Aluminum heads, roller cam, etc.

Most of my customers keep the motor stockish.. run boost levels in the lower 20's and have a fun car on the cheaps. Mid 11's is no biggie now days.. its even been done on a stock turbo/stock longblock car(11.37). Money will go in the trans and converter..

 

[~JM~]

Thanks fellas.. i dont even have a car yet, but Id like to figure out what way I wanna go, Start gathering parts here and their and etc thats all

Try to locate a car for sale that already has a fresh or built engine in it. A few more dollars up front is usually money better spent than building it yourself.

~JM~

 

[turbo nasty]

Cheap, Fast, Reliable...Pick 2

 

[Grumpy]

Try to locate a car for sale that already has a fresh or built engine in it. A few more dollars up front is usually money better spent than building it yourself.

~JM~

IF I didn't know the person selling the car NO way would I get into someone elses "problem's" .. AND that is why a lot of these cars get sold that have a case of the "woulda, coulda, shoulda's". For some reason they can't make them go or blow them up an they put it back together to unload !! Sorry this is the real world.

 

[m233roller]

I agree with that 100% Grumpy. Seen it to many times.

 

[Razor]

Yup
You buy someone else's problem.
These cars are sensitive to combinations and thought processes

 

[ladodgers8]

Im rounding out my build this winter. I started in the same boat you were, except I had a car with 140k miles on it. THAT care was near and dear to me, so that's why I didn't opt for someone else's problem. You can see my build below. I spent 5k on the car. I'm into it for about 13k in parts, 2k for tranny, 2500 for machine work... about to be another 2k for the FAST. I am chiming in because I started out just wanting to freshen up the motor, but the more research I did the more you find out, it's like this... "well, you COULD rebuild the stock heads, but damn Chapion makes a nice set of irons for just a few hundred more than you'd pay to have them rebuilt anyway... oh did we mention that for only a few hundred more than that, they can be aluminum? Sure you could rebuild a stock turbo... maybe go with something a LITTLE bigger... but what the hell for just a few hundred more bucks and you can have a 6465 ball bearing billet wheel turbo... sugar... who wouldn't go that route? EVERYTHING is like that. Next thing you know, you're 20k in the hole. Honestly I don't give a shoot that I wouldn't be able to sell it for half of what I have into it. That is not why I'm doing it. I've always thought that car was the baddest looking mofo around and still do. So I've spent the dough and I don't regret it for a second. Also there's something to be said for "doing it right", the first time around. Prime example is the FAST. I wasn't going to do it at first, but it will solve so many problems and allow me to NOT buy so much stuff that is going to just clog up the works anyway. Go take a look at the for sale section... how many guys are selling their LS1 MAF, chip, and 60lb injector combos? Seems like a few more every day. It's cause they're upgrading to a FAST. Now they're trying to recoup some of the cash they laid out in all that stuff when really if they could have, shoulda just bought the FAST to begin with.
Best post of the day up there, btw...
Pick 2:
Cheap
Fast
Reliable

 

[87chrisss]

Try to locate a car for sale that already has a fresh or built engine in it. A few more dollars up front is usually money better spent than building it yourself.

~JM~

i see advantages in what your saying...but this could also be a problem seen it happen time after time..someone just throws some parts together to sell the car as new rebuilt and the motor hasnt even been balanced or rings on upside down? too much blow bye wrong sized pushrods etcc careless engine build, and when she goes.. oh well no warranty on racing!! i rather buy a stocker and I take it apart put her together and I know exactly what i have to work with.. its just nuts and bolts for me i dont see any job too hard for me to have to take to a shop? honestly with all the resources of internet its not heart surgery? if your running class and into the 8's and 9's i would see why you would want to have it build by a pro you need perfect tolerances but 11's is pretty easy put her together in the garage.

 

[TurboBuRick]

The question really depends on how resourceful you are.

I build 109 forged internal short blocks with 2 steel mains for around $5g's.

RL

 

[~JM~]

Try to locate a car for sale that already has a fresh or built engine in it. A few more dollars up front is usually money better spent than building it yourself.

~JM~

Granted the buyer must excersise extreme caution when buying a "Built" or modified car, but I still stand by my saying that a few more dollars up front is usually dollars better spent. Probably the best strategy is to be patient & find a low mile car. As time goes by that is becomming harder to find. A modified car gives you the freedom to continue to build the car as you see fit vs. buying a clean stocker that may have more value being left stock. I would also try to buy a car off this site. That way there is a higher probability that a knowledgeable enthusiast has taken the proper care of the car.

~JM~

PS. Here's an example.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ca...stage-ii-street-car-sale-excellent-shape.html
How many could duplicate this car & not exceed the asking price?

 

[bison]

To run 11.50 all that's needed is a good stock shortblock. It will take it for a long time without detonation.

 

[Pronto]

IF I didn't know the person selling the car NO way would I get into someone elses "problem's" .. AND that is why a lot of these cars get sold that have a case of the "woulda, coulda, shoulda's". For some reason they can't make them go or blow them up an they put it back together to unload !! Sorry this is the real world.

Very true. I'll even take up one more notch to even "low mileage, stock". Doesn't matter, there will always be stuff to sort out or maintainence. I like to go back and read posts by sellers. Alot can be revealed and most of time it's problems they can't resolve. Turned me off to cars I thought I might like to own.

 

[Grumpy]

I like to go back and read posts by sellers. Alot can be revealed and most of time it's problems they can't resolve. Turned me off to cars I thought I might like to own.

YUP !!!! I was considering a car for sale a while ago. Thought I remembered him having some problems with the car. Searched an sure enuff it was THAT car for sale. LOTs of 9/10 sec cars in here running 11/12s. Oh BUT it SHOULD do this or that

 

[SS/GN]

Speed costs...............................how much do you have

Kevin