could this frame be used
- Thread starter gentek10
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
Looks like someone pulled through the frame when they boomed it down on a trailer. If the rest of the frame is good enough to use I'd probably drive it somewhere that could weld it up quick and call it good.
I wouldn't switch a frame over that issue but I would try to weld it up.
I wouldn't switch a frame over that issue but I would try to weld it up.
ok that makes sense if it was pulled through the frame. it happend to my GN and they dented the gas tank and spare tire wheel whell. how would i measure the points i have my measure tape handy.. thanks
Just so you know I was considering buying a frame to plate and brace instead of my own so I didn't have to have the body off the entire time, I decided against it. But, I was looking on craigslist and g-body frames are very common for sale, lots of lowrider projects etc and they were all 1-300. Keep that in mind before you spend to much money and time on it.
I would actually bet it might have been tweaked on a frame machine.
That part of the frame is very resistant to straightening.
It basically wants to spring right back.
How do I know this?
The moron who owned my WH1 before me was popping wheelies, while wearing his beer googles, and hit a curb, then ran the wheel, the lower & upper A-arms into the front frame horn.
And oh - drove it home in that condition.
No matter the heat, or the pressure applied, it would not straighten, and the car was actually totalled by the dumb ass insurance company and said previous owner moron.
T-top car did not make it any better to have a tweaked frame rail.
So...when I bought it for scrap value - the body came off, we slid a junkyard frame under it - and viola'!
Good as new.
Actually - we measured for sqaure, POR-15'd the frame prior, and were able to examine the bushing holes, installed new body bushings including the infamous missing bushings.
Also, replaced some key steel and rubber fuel, brake etc lines on the frame to new stainless while we were at it.
It was amost like an upgrade, and not all that horrific of a job to do.
That part of the frame is very resistant to straightening.
It basically wants to spring right back.
How do I know this?
The moron who owned my WH1 before me was popping wheelies, while wearing his beer googles, and hit a curb, then ran the wheel, the lower & upper A-arms into the front frame horn.
And oh - drove it home in that condition.
No matter the heat, or the pressure applied, it would not straighten, and the car was actually totalled by the dumb ass insurance company and said previous owner moron.
T-top car did not make it any better to have a tweaked frame rail.
So...when I bought it for scrap value - the body came off, we slid a junkyard frame under it - and viola'!
Good as new.
Actually - we measured for sqaure, POR-15'd the frame prior, and were able to examine the bushing holes, installed new body bushings including the infamous missing bushings.
Also, replaced some key steel and rubber fuel, brake etc lines on the frame to new stainless while we were at it.
It was amost like an upgrade, and not all that horrific of a job to do.
chopped39
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2004
- Messages
- 4,269
When is the last time the car was on an alignment machine. That can distort the frame and change the posistion of lower control arm rear bushing. How are the body bolts? check posistion of the body bushings.Does it look like they moved?. With the tear damage that I see I would replace the frame. These frames are weak enough without damage like that. I have an 87 cutlass frame in chicago. $100 pick up only if you want it. needs some repair washers around some of the body mount holes.
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 5,013
This may sound crazy but as mangled as that is, post in parts wanted for a section of the frame. Someone probably has a wrecked frame they could cut that chunk out and sell to you for cheap. Then cut out the portion of the damaged area back to a good point and section a new piece in. You'd need some tools (sawzall and welder) but it could be done somewhat easily. Just need to get the frame on several jackstands so it doesn't sag when removing the metal. You'd only be removing maybe a 6" square piece and pretty much only on the outer corner.
I found a chassis diagram with points and measurements so I'll give go. If it ends up being bad I have a plan b. I found a guy with a 86 Buick regal going to part it out and told me 300 for the frame or 400 for the rolling chassis in a week he's goin to disassemble it. I told i would help if he could cut me a deal less then what he asking he said ok .so hopefully if I do I'll get it even cheaper. Does that price and deal sound about right. Would it be wise to just get it rolling chassis or bare frame ..If I could get the rolling chassis for 300 or even 250 is that a deal or not
And it all might much ado about nothing if the frame is square and straight.
Maybe it was just someone who was over eager with the chain ratchets.
In which case, some welding and clean up.
By rolling chassis, does he mean the 8.5" rear end, along with the front A-arms?
I like that deal.
I've seen the rear ends selling for $500 by themselves.
I'd then sell or keep the rear end, and blast and coat all the suspension pieces for replacement on one of my weekend forrays into the car.
Maybe it was just someone who was over eager with the chain ratchets.
In which case, some welding and clean up.
By rolling chassis, does he mean the 8.5" rear end, along with the front A-arms?
I like that deal.
I've seen the rear ends selling for $500 by themselves.
I'd then sell or keep the rear end, and blast and coat all the suspension pieces for replacement on one of my weekend forrays into the car.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,782
If that was a tie down, or pull point, the metal would have been ripped downward, not back up into the cavity. [Unless it was originally torn down, and then beat back, that is.] NE BFH marks?? The way it's caved in behind the hole, it looks to me as tho someone ran over something. See the deep scratch marks?
If it checks out measurement wise, I'd heat the torn areas, bend them into place, and weld it. I'd then plate it. Done deal, and you have a nice jack pad.
What does the pass side look like?
If it was pulled on a frame machine, [or tied down on a transporter], I'd think both sides would show some indications of that being the case.
If it checks out measurement wise, I'd heat the torn areas, bend them into place, and weld it. I'd then plate it. Done deal, and you have a nice jack pad.
What does the pass side look like?
If it was pulled on a frame machine, [or tied down on a transporter], I'd think both sides would show some indications of that being the case.
i took a BFH to it before i had taken the pik. but i mainly pushed the cracks back in a little and i didnt hit it to much i was trying to see if it would just make a difference. i dont remember hitting in from under though, just the side.. i noticed the scratch marks on the underside of the lower a arm. i did wire brush the tear area a bit to get a better look.. pass side looks just fine and so does the rear no signs of pull marks which i woulod have figured if it did it to that end it would of done to the other end as well.. hmmmm what to do. i just want to make sure I measure it right.
these are the dimensions i found for a 80 malibu.. will this work. and what measurment do you guys think is most important. Im thinking i should set the datum line and measure all the ponts A B C D E and F from the ground and maybe a few from one side of the frame to the other . so what do you guys think .
check to see if it is square,easiest way to find damage on a frame. measure from the front to the opposite side at torque box area,and check with other side. this will tell you if front end is over and if you have a length problem,those would be my main concern,then worry about height. you can do this without a spec sheet,just find matching sets of holes from side to side
the car has been in a towing and storage facility since 2002 the previous owner didnt pay for the fees so now its in my hands. the reason i bring this is up , is do u guys think beacuse of this its more probable that it was just damage from the tie downs..
chopped39
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2004
- Messages
- 4,269
If that car was flatbedded they would not hook it there.They would go the lower control arm or to the holes in front of frame.If there was no wheels on car those holes are not visible. Anything is possible. Im with chuck. It looks like they drove up on something if not is was in a ditch and was pulled from the side and it pulled metal apart. I would want to put it on a frame machine or just an alignment to see the numbers. There is a company that makes an aftermarket frame for the gbody cars. They have to have the specs for the frame.
Similar threads
